Battery booster

exactly ! "dont even " as the saying goes. a junky old tractor is one thing with a dist. but dont even think that way on this electronic new stuff. some people wont even give a boost off their own vehicle to someone in need, as in 12 v to 12 volt.
 
exactly ! "dont even " as the saying goes. a junky old tractor is one thing with a dist. but dont even think that way on this electronic new stuff. some people wont even give a boost off their own vehicle to someone in need, as in 12 v to 12 volt.


The way to do that without potential damage to either or both vehicles is to not have the boosting vehicle running.

Running the booster vehicle with cables attatched to the dead vehicle for a short time is helpful as it puts some charge into the dead battery but the running vehicle needs to be shut off before attempting to start the dead vehicle.

When the dead vehicle starts, it's charging system won't be fighting with the charging/electrical system on the shut off boosting vehicle.

That is the same as boosting from a spare battery or one of those jump start gadgets.
 
I don’t have any electrical problems. I was just asking a question. Sometimes in the winter at zero degrees you can use a little more punch to get a diesel engine to start.
🧑‍🌾
It all depends on the boosted batteries load capacity and internal resistance. If the batteries load capacity is large, and battery is in a state of discharge...meaning that there is capacity to be absorbed, and the internal resistance of the battery to be jumped is low, and the starting function is short...like 2 people doing the work...one attaching and removing the jump battery when ready, and the other operating the starter, then I don't know why there would be a problem.

Several "gotchas" in what I said that could make it a bad idea.
 
In a previous lifetime I used a Goodall starting unit (look that up) for cold-weather jumping. The vehicles had a lot less solid state componentry, and even that was a bit more tolerant of transients than modern equipment. Throwing 20+V onto a system was not unusual in the "start" position on the manual switch. The "charge" position would usually keep it below 16V, and even many more modern vehicles regulate into the 15V range on their own alternators.

The routine was to connect up, start the Kohler and let it idle until warm (or never shut it off between service calls) then hammer the throttle and let it spin the pair of Delco generators insanely. Something was going to happen, no matter what. If it was a NoPar wedge-block with a Carter AFB, the additional step of removing the air cleaner lid and throwing a lit match onto the carb was performed first. If you lived then, you know why.
 
When you had a 6 volt system that was dead and your only option for today was to boost it with a 12 volt, you figured out how to get the job done as close to safely as you could.

If you are buying a 12/24 volt charger then only a fool would use the 24 volt setting to try to charge/ start a 12 volt setup?

If you had livestock to feed and it was 0 degrees snow storm and your 12 volt tractor was dead and you had a 24 volt industrial loader idling nearby as your only option, you probably would try to figure out a way to best as you could run the 12 volt starter on a 24 volt boost.

In the past old components were built heavy duty and robust and putting 12 volts to a 6 volt starter didn’t cause many problems.

In today’s world things are engineered just good enough to get by, and putting 24 volts to a 12 volt system is quite a bit bigger of a deal, much more stress. Ignoring the more modern electrical systems and computers and displays.

in both cases you are doubling the voltage, but if you look at it as adding 6 more volts verses adding 12 more volts, it’s a much bigger step?

Paul
My dad used to jump his 6 volt JD 440 dozer with 12 volts, one time it busted the back cover off the starter, it engaged so fast!
 
CAN it be done? Sure. We've gotten away with it a few times on an early 2000's Western Star at work. Sure cranks it over nice. No ill effects so far, but I think that's because we weren't getting a good clamp on the battery terminals and losing a lot of voltage. First few times the warehouse guy did it. I did it once myself because 12V wasn't turning it over. Smelled something burning, but the check engine lights went out eventually, so it must've healed itself, LOL.

Warehouse guy had it in his head that because the truck has multiple batteries, it's 24V.

Now that I know where to clamp on, 12V starts the truck just fine.
 
When I jump a 6 volt with a 12 volt I hook directly to the starter and only connect it during cranking, I would do the same with a 24 volt on a 12 volt.
 
I know we used to boost 6 volt tractors with 12 volt vehicles years ago. Has anyone ever tried to boost 12 volt systems with 24 volts? I realize this would probably be a bad idea on the new computerized vehicles but how about older 12 volt systems like on tractors? I have a chance to get a battery booster pack that has 12 and 24 volt capability is why I am asking. Carlyle brand from NAPA. 👨‍🌾
Jumping directly to the starter and not connecting to the electrical system is done so that only the starter motor sees the high voltage and is spun over.. The key must be on, and there should be a little charge left in the lower voltage system to fire the coil. By doing this, no damage is done the the lower voltage system or lower voltage battery. Jumping to the other side of the solenoid, will/can cause bad things to happen.
 
I don’t have any electrical problems. I was just asking a question. Sometimes in the winter at zero degrees you can use a little more punch to get a diesel engine to start.
🧑‍🌾
Cetane boost and block heater? Here in the high desert of Nevada it's not uncommon to go -20 any time after winter solstice. And, park the tractor close to a power supply.
 
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