battery troubles

[S M Himrod]

I cannot keep a charge on my 6 volt battery. I have a 51 super C that I just use around the yard, I do not work it hard. When I do use it I try to keep it running for at least an hour when doing projects. With that said, the previous owner put an 8 volt battery in it. When my throttle is above 3/4's the amp meter shows it should be charging the battery. I shut it off and it does not have enough juice to turn it over. Do you think a new battery, 6 volt on sale for $35 dollars this week at my local hardware store, would solve the problem? Or should I be looking for something else? I am not that knowledgeable about 6 volt systems. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

[rrlund]

I'd look at the battery cables first. I'm guessing that being that old,they've been replaced. Chances are they were replaced with those tiny little 12 volt cables. You loose 2/3 of your AMPERAGE running 6 volts through them. You'll still have 6 volts,but few cranking amps. They need a 2.0 guage cable. You might have to find a place to have them made,but check with a CaseIH dealer. Remember,there are 3 cables. Battery to starter button,button to starter and ground.

 

[Bob]

You need to check the voltage at the battery, while the engine is running and charging.

If you are not seeing 7.2 to 7.4 Volts, the charging system is not doing it's job.

HINT: Use an ANALOG meter, as many digital meters get "freaked out" by the "noisy" ignition and charging systems on these old machines, and read extremely erratically.

 

[Ken Crisman]

I've learned that the 6 v systems are very stubborn when it comes to clean terminals & connection points . I have to remove all connections , clean them until they shine , smear some dielectric grease on every connection point & reassemble . Also the VR has to be putting out at least 7.3 amps back into the battery to keep it charged ; so you might check that also . Check all wires for cracks. What I do at least once a year is remove the VR & genny , then take them to an auto electrical repair shop & have them checked & mated . Also to let you know , I run a 8 v battery & have the VR tweaked so it puts 9.6 amps back into my battery . The 8 v gives better lighting & faster start ups . That was the best move I could've made about 7 yrs ago . I have a Ford 640 & a 8n Funk conversion running with 8 v batteries with no problems . I did have to replace 1 headlite & 1 battery after 5 yrs though . Not bad aah ? HTH ! God bless, Ken

 

[Bob]

You might want to correct the "Amps" thing, before someone (else) gets confused!

 

[Ken Crisman]

Well Bob , I may have boobood so go ahead & tell me the error . I do forget numbers but I do my best . I stand corrected folks . I'm not too old to learn myself . Thanks Bob & God bless, Ken

 

[Thack]

If your hardware store can test the battery I would have them do that for you, that would save you some guess work.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have fixed many 6 volt problems after they were profesionaly repaired at pretty high costs. My big secret is to take the starter off and clean the outer rim on starter and tractor where they mate. Rust over the years stops the ground contact.

 

[noncompos]

You state "can"t keep a charge"..."don"t use it hard"..."at 3/4 throttle shows charge" (but you didn"t say how much charge on the ammeter: 5+?,25+,40+?)...
If connections, wiring, cables OK,could just be your gen not putting out enough (brushes worn, weak brush springs, dirty commutator, etc), assuming not working hard means you"re usually below 3/4 throttle, AND if at 3/4 you still have low charge.
Vehicle batteries go bad quickly if not used regularly and often left low in charge; by all means have batt tested (bad cells usually show in OVERcharging, but sometimes can show in low charging). Then look to gen output; should show small charge just above idle, with better charge as RPM"s pick up, until starter draw replaced and VR or cutout reduces charging.
If money available, Ken C"s advice excellent (have shop check gen/VR or cutout as unit). Good luck.

 

[El Toro]

You need to check the charging voltage at your battery with the engine at 3/4 throttle with a volt meter. You need a charging voltage in the range that Ken gets to keep that battery charged.
If you're only getting 7 to 7.5 volts at your battery that's not enough to charge your battery.
Hal

 

[Anonymous-0]

And that folks, is some fantastic advice. Never would have thought of that. Thanks!

 

[buickanddeere]

Both the current and the voltage drop due to high resistance cables/connections.
Ideal current & voltage could be 600A and 6.0V while cranking. 3.60KW of power by the way.
If the voltage across the starter dropped to 3.0V and the current dropped to 300A. The power has now dropped to .90KW .
While its a common term, there is no freaking ground on a tractor, car, combine or what ever. IT'S CHASSIS. I doubt your tractor is tied to a couple of 10ft copper rods driven into the earth.
Ground is on your hydro service and what is bonded to the neutral at the main distribution panel. Ground cables are supposed to be connected to milking parlor metal components, electric motor frames etc. Ground is NOT what you are supposed to connect to when all there is is L1, L2 & ground when you need to operate something at 120V.

 

[Tom43]

I would avoid 8 volt batteries! They are hard to charge with a 6 volt system and the extra voltage will make shorter life of points and square can coils. You should see 7 to 7.5 volts at the battery terminals of a good charged 6 volt battery.

 

[S M Himrod]

Thanks for all your ideas guys! I went out and cleaned both ends of the battery cables, they are 2 gauge(fairly new), didn't help. Took the battery to town and had it tested, was bad. Put a new 6 volt battery in. It started perfectly. Unfortunatly it got dark on me. I will have to get my voltage tester out and see if it is charging properly later this week. Thanks again!

 

[Anonymous-0]

Change it to 12 volts and you can forget about cranking problems. Get a 12 volt coil with built-in resistor and a GM alternator.