Bent chainsaw bar <--fix or replace?

I've cut a lot of firewood in my life and I can agree with bc . I like a chain saw that is capable of running a longer bar but using a shorter one on it increases the performance. If I had a nickel for every cord of firewood I cut I could be retired today.
 
Agreed. I never understood the obsession with putting large bars on small saws. My two MS460's both only have 20" bars and the 066 has a 24". A 20" bar will drop and buck a 36" dbh tree just dandy. No need for the extra length for anything I'm doing - just more teeth to sharpen.
 
I'm no expert but I have taken down an irregular shaped approximately 40 inch tree with a 16" chain. Cut your notches and use wedges. Don't need to cut clean through all the way around. Once down make some vertical cuts to quarter the big stuff or quarter the notches as well.

The only thing I'm a expert at is how to make Jean shorts out of a pair of jeans with a chain saw while still wearing the jeans. Don't ask how I learned that one. Got after action pics somewhere on the phone if the sight of blood doesn't bother you.
 
I wouldn't go to a longer bar and chain unless absolutely needed. That cuts down on your power and chain speed taking longer to cut and easier to bog down or stick it. If anything go to a shorter bar to cut quicker as long as you aren't cutting real thick stuff. I get arm tired after cutting very long with big and heavy saws. Can cut more with a lighter one. Many loggers use 2 or more sizes of saws.
That was my next question. I already have a short saw (14" or 16"). This one is setup for 18". I was considering putting a long bar on it. Maybe not.
I like the reach of the long bar, easier to get stuff cut without bending over and straining out for limbs.
My trees aren't big, largest I'll cut is 30" across. Hmmm...
 
I was given this Stihl MS250.
I noticed it doesn't cut well, figured the chain was dull. Then I noticed the last six inches of the bar were skewed, bent. I put a straightedge on it: over a quarter inch crooked.
I wedged it in between heavy iron, tried bending it back: no go.
Can this be straightened with basic tools?
Or should I buy a new bar? If so: what kind? OEM Stihl, or an Oregon, or something else?
The saw will be used for firewood. Not a daily money maker.

Check out CuttersChoice.com. They usually have a special on a bar and 3 chains.
 
That was my next question. I already have a short saw (14" or 16"). This one is setup for 18". I was considering putting a long bar on it. Maybe not.
I like the reach of the long bar, easier to get stuff cut without bending over and straining out for limbs.
My trees aren't big, largest I'll cut is 30" across. Hmmm...
Will see what others think but for a limbing saw then longer won't affect it much and still help at the trunk.

The last 18 incher I got was a I. B. Pullin (Poulan). I. B. Pullin and pullin and pullin and pullin and it never wanted to start very easy. I got a Stihl MS 194 pro model with 14" bar used by tree climbers and arborists. It will do anything I want, starts easy, and is light in weight.

I'll let the Paul Bunyan types use their big saws.
 
Agreed. I never understood the obsession with putting large bars on small saws. My two MS460's both only have 20" bars and the 066 has a 24". A 20" bar will drop and buck a 36" dbh tree just dandy. No need for the extra length for anything I'm doing - just more teeth to sharpen.
In a word, reach. Instead of having to stoop to buck logs, you can stand, and it's much easier on your back.

I have a Husky 35 with a 20" bar, and a Rancher 450 with a 20" bar. Not to cut 20" logs, but to reach down and cut up small limbs without having to stoop over and wreck my back.

The only time it really affects performance is when you start cutting something bigger than the saw is capable of, because you have the bar. If you only use the tip, it doesn't make much difference.
 
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