Best tool to cut metal barn siding

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
What works best to cut metal barn siding have tried skill saw fine blade mounted backwards didn't like way it cut and tried saws all with metal blade good cut but slow.Whats best?
 
you can buy metal cutting abrasive blades for most skil type saws,thats what most folks around here uses.blades dont last too long though in my experience.bro has a shear that does good ,sort of like a electric nibbler.But its a pta to run.I built a chicken house last week,and used a abraisive cutoff blade on my angle grinder.
 
(quoted from post at 14:36:18 06/13/11) What works best to cut metal barn siding have tried skill saw fine blade mounted backwards didn't like way it cut and tried saws all with metal blade good cut but slow.Whats best?

Like you, I've used sabre saws, sawzalls, reverse mounted circular saw blade, cutoff blade in a circular saw, shears, etc. and then I got a 4 1/2" angle grinder. It is by far the best way to cut metal that I've tried. Put a .045" thick cutoff blade in it, scribe the line and it'll do the neatest job with good control that I've ever used. Throws a few sparks so make sure you don't have any flammable materials in its exit path and eye protection is a MUST. Once you get the hang of it, it'll be the first tool you grab to cut metal. I got a Dewalt 10Amp but others are probably comparable.
 
I bought a pair of snips RH and LH the handles stay above the work. Midwest brand comes to mind ?
The Amish that put my last one up score it with a utility knife then just snap it off ! This was on the cuts running with the ribs on the panels.

Several brands also make an electric saw with counter rotating blades for metal.
 
I just use a regular skil saw blade, carbide teeth. Wear eye protection/face protection. Can cut at least 3 at a time. Use a guide because it will slice though like butter in whatever direction you point it in!
 
Quite a few yeras ago when I was just old enough to be asking all kinds of questions , I watched a older man take bailing wire wrap one end around a 2x4 , put the 2x4 0n ground & run the wire under the panel to be cut . Then he would wrap the other end around a stick & tie it off , then he would lay a board along both sides of the line to cut. Then he would stand on the boards & pull up on the bailing wire cut like a pair shears . I don t remember if he cut only one at atime or not. Memory still good after 71 1/2 years.
 
Here ya go. We use them all the time for cutting back metal roofing. http://www.amazon.com/Malco-TSHD-Turboshear-Heavy-Duty/dp/B0002894R0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1308003965&sr=8-1
 
I have had the best luck with an old, very worn out plywood blade that more or less has the teeth worn off of it. It burns the sheet metal less than some other blades I have tried, and it seems a little easier to keep the cut line straight.

However it is VERY NOISY and produces some sparks and molten metal drips that have to be dealt with. I agree that ear and eye protection is a necessity.

Cutting sheet metal this way is pretty hard on a hand held circular saw. I have worn a couple of them out that way. Maybe the more powerful worm drive saws would be better, but I have never had one. Good luck
 
I used a Milwaukee variable speed shears. I really think it works great, and no razor sharp edges. You end up with a lot of 1/4" curly pieces when you use one....
 
My vote goes with the Air Shears. Used them on the last building I built will never go back to Saw. Here is picture of building. Was a Canvis covered building now is covered with tin. Including door cost $750. Is to park Garden & farm tractor in. Check out my Buddy in picture His name is Elvis.
i51102.jpg
 
Best is all in one's opinion. I have used electric shears and they work pretty good if the jaws are good, won't cut squat if they aren't. I also have used the abrasive blades. They work (ok) but they tend to burn the paint more and they wear out extremely fast. I have tried steel blades turned backwards work (ok) but a little jagged on the cut. Don't turn a carbide blade backwards, have seen the teeth stripped off of the blade. What I like best is a blade in the skilsaw that really doesn't have teeth, it just has slots cut in it. The slots don't have any set to them so they cut fairly quick without to many burrs and they will last forever. They are specifically made for steel panels. Good luck with your project.


Steven
 
The crew that built my pole barn used a conventional circular saw. It is fast and produces a good quality cut but is VERY noisy.

Ear protection is mandatory.

Dean
 
To cut to length use a commercial grade pair of snips. You will not find these in the homeowner stores but must be bought from an industrial supply house. I served as an apprentice sheet metal worker and learned to use hand snips. I have 10" Wiss Inlaid. The utility knife idea sounds good to cut to width, but I have never done it
 
You need a nibbler. I have a Makita brand. It will cut long ways or cross ways, and does a good job! No loud noise, flying crap, or googles and ear plugs. Get one and you will NEVER think of using a plywood blade again!
 

I like a nibbler. I have one that you can run with a drill motor. Not as good as Sparktrician's but can be run with a battery drill motor.

Dusty
 
The metal supplier that made the metal for my house roof said they would not warantee the finish if it was cut with a circular saw. They said the heat and hot particles will cause a band of rust along the cut edge.

They were right.

Guess how I know.

Roof looks good except for where I made the valley cuts with a circular saw.
 
Air tools are one of the few items that I use Harbor Freight for. Power tools, No. I probably own half the items in that store.

CT
 
(quoted from post at 06:35:44 06/14/11) You need a nibbler. I have a Makita brand. It will cut long ways or cross ways, and does a good job! No loud noise, flying crap, or googles and ear plugs. Get one and you will NEVER think of using a plywood blade again!

I have a nibbler and I agree that they work really well.
But the downside to them is all the little 1/4 moon shaped slivers that you have to clean up afterward.
 
Admittedly, they don't work as well across the ridges as on the 'flat', but they still work better than anything else I've tried. I bought them when building our pavilion about 10 years ago. It's roofed with 5-vee roofing tin and most of the sheets had to be cut..........on an angle.

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If I had a lot to cut, I would use either the steelmax or the evolution circular saw that is designed to cut steel. Nice clean cut without heat. The 7 1/4 inch saw cuts up to 5/16 solid stock and the 9" cuts up to 1/2 inch solid mild steel. Not overly expensive. The 9" evolution can be purchased for a little over $300.00. Makes a big job a lot easier. These saws run at a lower rpm and have a LOT more torque than a regular circular saw.
 

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