Bigger Brush Hog

[Brian G. NY]

My old 5' Bush Hog Squeeler was fine on the Allis WD but quite a few years ago I got a Series II D-17 Allis which has a LOT more power and I have been wanting to upgrade to a 6 footer.
Never found one at a price I wanted to spend til now.
My wife spotted this on Facebook Marketplace for $600 and I was lucky enough to buy it.
It is a LandPride Model 1872 and is very well constructed. This model is still being sold.
Kubota now owns the company.
Price nowadays is in the $4,000 range.....unbelievable!
The D-17 powers it with ease but it sure does suck up the fuel.
Speeds up the work significant;ly though!
It's in really good shape except the blades have had the he!! beat out of them.
I really have to remove them to be able to sharpen them right.
Haven't been able to break those big ol' nuts loose yet but I'm still trying.
3 Foot cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive socket doesn't seem to be quite enough.

 

[Steve in VA]

My old 5' Bush Hog Squeeler was fine on the Allis WD but quite a few years ago I got a Series II D-17 Allis which has a LOT more power and I have been wanting to upgrade to a 6 footer.
Never found one at a price I wanted to spend til now.
My wife spotted this on Facebook Marketplace for $600 and I was lucky enough to buy it.
It is a LandPride Model 1872 and is very well constructed. This model is still being sold.
Kubota now owns the company.
Price nowadays is in the $4,000 range.....unbelievable!
The D-17 powers it with ease but it sure does suck up the fuel.
Sure does speed up the work though.
Speeds up the work significant;ly though!
It's in really good shape except the blades have had the he!! beat out of them.
I really have to remove them to be able to sharpen them right.
Haven't been able to break those big ol' nuts loose yet but I'm still trying.
3 Foot cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive socket doesn't seem to be quite enough.

View attachment 127107

For what its worth, on my 6' Squeeler I use a 6' pipe and 3/4".

 

[bradley martin]

My old 5' Bush Hog Squeeler was fine on the Allis WD but quite a few years ago I got a Series II D-17 Allis which has a LOT more power and I have been wanting to upgrade to a 6 footer.
Never found one at a price I wanted to spend til now.
My wife spotted this on Facebook Marketplace for $600 and I was lucky enough to buy it.
It is a LandPride Model 1872 and is very well constructed. This model is still being sold.
Kubota now owns the company.
Price nowadays is in the $4,000 range.....unbelievable!
The D-17 powers it with ease but it sure does suck up the fuel.
Sure does speed up the work though.
Speeds up the work significant;ly though!
It's in really good shape except the blades have had the he!! beat out of them.
I really have to remove them to be able to sharpen them right.
Haven't been able to break those big ol' nuts loose yet but I'm still trying.
3 Foot cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive socket doesn't seem to be quite eA bit of heat from an acetylene torch would likely help. Depending on how much use the machine has had, you may find those bolts partially wore through where the blades pivot.

Heat nuts using acetylene torch. You may find the bolts partially wore through where the blades pivot. If so, replace. Yes, a longer piece of pipe likely required. If blades are really beat up, you might consider replacing.

 

[Caryc]

My Woods M5 five foot mower has a 6 or 7 inch hole in the deck in front of the gear box. It has a metal cover on it. When you remove that cover, you can turn the shaft until the blade bolt lines up with that hole. You can remove the blades that way, no need to crawl under the mower. I don't know why all mowers are not built that way.

 

[wore out]

My old 5' Bush Hog Squeeler was fine on the Allis WD but quite a few years ago I got a Series II D-17 Allis which has a LOT more power and I have been wanting to upgrade to a 6 footer.
Never found one at a price I wanted to spend til now.
My wife spotted this on Facebook Marketplace for $600 and I was lucky enough to buy it.
It is a LandPride Model 1872 and is very well constructed. This model is still being sold.
Kubota now owns the company.
Price nowadays is in the $4,000 range.....unbelievable!
The D-17 powers it with ease but it sure does suck up the fuel.
Sure does speed up the work though.
Speeds up the work significant;ly though!
It's in really good shape except the blades have had the he!! beat out of them.
I really have to remove them to be able to sharpen them right.
Haven't been able to break those big ol' nuts loose yet but I'm still trying.
3 Foot cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive socket doesn't seem to be quite enough.

View attachment 127107

Two words, impact wrench.

 

[Vito]

Nice grab. Kudos to your wife .

Vito

 

[Steve in VA]

My Woods M5 five foot mower has a 6 or 7 inch hole in the deck in front of the gear box. It has a metal cover on it. When you remove that cover, you can turn the shaft until the blade bolt lines up with that hole. You can remove the blades that way, no need to crawl under the mower. I don't know why all mowers are not built that way.

Similar setup on my Squeeler. I've never crawled under.

 

[mjsnodgrass]

My old 5' Bush Hog Squeeler was fine on the Allis WD but quite a few years ago I got a Series II D-17 Allis which has a LOT more power and I have been wanting to upgrade to a 6 footer.
Never found one at a price I wanted to spend til now.
My wife spotted this on Facebook Marketplace for $600 and I was lucky enough to buy it.
It is a LandPride Model 1872 and is very well constructed. This model is still being sold.
Kubota now owns the company.
Price nowadays is in the $4,000 range.....unbelievable!
The D-17 powers it with ease but it sure does suck up the fuel.
Sure does speed up the work though.
Speeds up the work significant;ly though!
It's in really good shape except the blades have had the he!! beat out of them.
I really have to remove them to be able to sharpen them right.
Haven't been able to break those big ol' nuts loose yet but I'm still trying.
3 Foot cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive socket doesn't seem to be quite enough.

View attachment 127107

have the same mower and just replaced the blades. after fighting the bolts on and off for a week i finally just cut them with a torch. replaced, the blades and bolts and used lots of never seize when putting back together. replace the gearbox seal while you're working on it. those mower will stand up vertical if you can pick them up with the tail wheel. good luck

 

[Brian G. NY]

My Woods M5 five foot mower has a 6 or 7 inch hole in the deck in front of the gear box. It has a metal cover on it. When you remove that cover, you can turn the shaft until the blade bolt lines up with that hole. You can remove the blades that way, no need to crawl under the mower. I don't know why all mowers are not built that way.

Actually, I think nearly all are.

 

[Brian G. NY]

Two words, impact wrench.

Yeah.....but mine ain't big enuff!

 

[Brian G. NY]

Heat nuts using acetylene torch. You may find the bolts partially wore through where the blades pivot. If so, replace. Yes, a longer piece of pipe likely required. If blades are really beat up, you might consider replacing.

I might replace them....heck for what I've got in the mower, whats another $150? LOL

 

[Bob Bancroft]

Yeah.....but mine ain't big enuff!

Looks like a great mower. Anybody nearby with a one inch drive air impact who could knock them loose for you?

 

[Ray,IN]

I might replace them....heck for what I've got in the mower, whats another $150? LOL

Drench those nuts and threads with a good penetrant, then try again. When you get ready to replace the blades, coat the threads with never-seez. I did that about 15 yrs ago and the nuts have never rusted in place since.

 

[Ray,IN]

My Woods M5 five foot mower has a 6 or 7 inch hole in the deck in front of the gear box. It has a metal cover on it. When you remove that cover, you can turn the shaft until the blade bolt lines up with that hole. You can remove the blades that way, no need to crawl under the mower. I don't know why all mowers are not built that way.

My King Kutter had a small hole in the deck, but not large enough to accept a 3/4" drive socket. I enlarged the hole and it makes removing and installing blades easy-peazy.

 

[Ray,IN]

Looks like a great mower. Anybody nearby with a one inch drive air impact who could knock them loose for you?

Auto-Zone loans tools. You leave your CC# and if you don't return the tool, you bought them a new one.

 

[Caryc]

have the same mower and just replaced the blades. after fighting the bolts on and off for a week i finally just cut them with a torch. replaced, the blades and bolts and used lots of never seize when putting back together. replace the gearbox seal while you're working on it. those mower will stand up vertical if you can pick them up with the tail wheel. good luck

I did stand up my Woods mower like that when I installed the stump jumper on it. Luckily, I had another tractor with an FEL on it to lift it up.

 

[DoubleR]

My old 5' Bush Hog Squeeler was fine on the Allis WD but quite a few years ago I got a Series II D-17 Allis which has a LOT more power and I have been wanting to upgrade to a 6 footer.
Never found one at a price I wanted to spend til now.
My wife spotted this on Facebook Marketplace for $600 and I was lucky enough to buy it.
It is a LandPride Model 1872 and is very well constructed. This model is still being sold.
Kubota now owns the company.
Price nowadays is in the $4,000 range.....unbelievable!
The D-17 powers it with ease but it sure does suck up the fuel.
Speeds up the work significant;ly though!
It's in really good shape except the blades have had the he!! beat out of them.
I really have to remove them to be able to sharpen them right.
Haven't been able to break those big ol' nuts loose yet but I'm still trying.
3 Foot cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive socket doesn't seem to be quite enough.

View attachment 127107

I have two of those. 1860 and 1872. I do some commercial work with them andI sure got my moneys worth out of them. I have replaced the blades several times and the gear box on the 1872. I got a bigger 1/2 inch air impact from horrible frt. to get the blade nuts off. I don't remember the model impact but I paid about a 100 bucks for it and ran 175 lbs air on my compressor to get them off. I think the book says they are suppose to be 450 lbs torqued. Landpride wanted 900 bucks for the gear box but I found one on line for 180 bucks and its held up for several years now.

 

[MKinON]

I also have one of those. Those are special bolts with a key in them, think they're about 1" size. They may be hard to get out if it's been a while, so once the nut is loose some, tap them down. They're probably not cheap, so make sure the threads don't get beat up in the removal process. And yes, 450lbs/ft to retighten. That takes a lot of grunt, even with a 5' wrench.

 

[Texgasser1]

Drench them nuts with Kroil and let them sit overnight. Bigger cheater pipe. That is what we did for my neighbors. 3/4 drive breaker bar, and 5 foot cheater pipe.

 

[Steve in VA]

I also have one of those. Those are special bolts with a key in them, think they're about 1" size. They may be hard to get out if it's been a while, so once the nut is loose some, tap them down. They're probably not cheap, so make sure the threads don't get beat up in the removal process. And yes, 450lbs/ft to retighten. That takes a lot of grunt, even with a 5' wrench.

For my hog, I bought 1 extra bolt and nut. Ran the nut on a few threads and welded. So, I remove the nut, thread on my set up which extends above the deck and hammer away. I also endorse the anti-seize.