Bleeding 3rd stage filter 830

oldproudvet

Well-known Member
I'm changing all 3 filters this morning on my 830CK and I've a question that I've never gotten an answer to, about that 3rd or final filter canister. My Racine 400 is the same. The Case bleeding procedures work fine for the first 2, lower, filers. The check valve, which no lit admits too, in the final filter, seems to be the issue. It will not gravity feed (full tank) thru. What I've done in years past, is take a very small hose, a small funnel and drip fuel in with an small suction bulb through the bleed hole. Takes an hour and makes a mess + this is unfiltered fuel. What do you guys do in changing out that 3rd or final filter? Thanks for your 2 bits. Larry
 
best to bleed with a full tank of fuel. I have used some air pressure , very little like only a ib. or 2. at the filler cap.
 
Larry,

I make sure the fuel tank is full, hit the decompresssor handle and turn it over for about two minutes, holding my hand on the starter to make sure it isn't getting warm. I used to fill it with a 50 cc syringe, but that was cumbersome. Don
 
Sorry Larry,

That's how I do the 400, 500, and 600. I forgot the 830 does not have a decompressor. Brain is on lockdown too LOL Don
 
I think you've got it. A friend of mine from Glennwood that worked for Case in the 70s and now works for himself saw my post and says the easiest way is to just reverse the hoses on a shop vac, seal around the tank with a rag and away you go. Can't get to much pressure with that system. Thanks guys Larry
 
For diesel ok, but many fires have been started with shop vacs and fuel. I just use a blower on the air hose and a shop wrag in the fillet hole
 
It's a diesel buddy, 3 filters, remember? The vac worked quick and very easy, rag around the hose which darn near seals the tank by itself. I do use compressed air for bleeding brakes though, easier than trying to explain to my wife that up means up and down means down, and then having to demonstrate. Several outfits make neat cap adapters with proper spuds ready to go. I have 3 Ford trucks on the farm, so I popped for one of those otherwise I'll just JB Weld on an old cap. NO MORE than 5# though or you'll have a real mess.
 
I'm well aware it's a diesel, but uninsulated electric motors and fuel is not a good thing. Lots of videos of blowing them up while blowing gas tanks. Diesel would be less, but still not good.
 
I have a old fuel tank cap that I drilled and put a valve stem into. Just change caps and use a hand tire pump and give it a pound of pressure.Works really slick. (Caution don't use a air compresser) When you are done just switch caps back.
 
I?ve always just used an air blow gun and low pressure with my hand over the fuel tank fill. It just takes a very small tank pressure to push the fuel to the third filter. Usually takes 30 seconds to prime.
 
I have changed a number of them always have the tank full to the cap/filler neck,, cap off bleed according to steps in the ops in order,, the 3rd stage will bleed out but it does take time,, seen it take 20 min or so,, tractor also has to be level when doing the final,, air works but you still can get air pockets doing it that way,, most do not even notice how they run with a air bubble in them,, lets just add that was not my fav job at all to change those finals,, but I am glad to say they last many thousands of hours so it is not a often changed item for me,,
 
On eagle hitch tractors there is a bypass valve between the primary and secondary filters on the top of the filter housing . It is just a small tee type valve, just crack it and the filter will fill by itself with a full tank of fuel. The draft o matic tractors have a small relief valve between the primary and secondary filters also but that requires a 7/8 wrench to remove. Take the spring and plunger out and put the plug back in and wait for the fuel to come out of the third filter. Reinstall the spring and plunger and away you go. Easy Peasy.
 
Don ,don't feel to bad, I have an early 830 that has the decompressor system It also has the Injecton pump that must be serviced at oil change intervals. Your mind must not be to bad yet, hope all is well. Mel
 
that does work,, but CLEAN is the key word when introduction fuel to a third stage filter for sure,, to me not worth the few min it takes to bleed correctly,, but what ever works,,
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top