Block Work

[jd2cyl1943]

I have JD B block that needs decked and rebored. I am only 14 and I am trying to raise money for the machining. I just want the amount you guys have paid for similar jobs.

By the way if you are trying to restore a Wico C or X mag, I suggest that you get the video from Roberts Carb Repair. Awesome video and is very instructional. Costs about $15.

This post was edited by jd2cyl1943 on 01/04/2023 at 04:01 pm.

 

[Patsdeere]

In all honesty it might be worth finding
one that was already done. I found one (15
years ago) that was already machined with
matching pistons for $100 plus freight.
Yes they can be shipped UPS. Maybe I got
lucky, but I didn't have any shops in my
area with equipment big enough and I still
would have had to get bigger pistons.

 

[jd2cyl1943]

The cheapest that I found one that was all ready done cost $1,500 without shipping.

 

[Patsdeere]

That's more than a tractor.

I would call around and see what shops
have to say. Might be worth going a little
further out into the country (if you're in
more of a city) as there will be more
machine shops that have the capabilities.
Being a young kid, can't hurt when you
talk to them. I found a couple in my area
that liked a youngster working hard.

 

[Janicholson]

Call community colleges and diesel trade schools to see if it coud be done as an educational experience Jim

 

[steve1000]

Last summer I had a G block sleeved by Dave's Engine Rebuilding in Austin, MN. 507 438 6944. I was very happy with his work. Also a good contact is Henry at H&J Machining in North Dakota. He seems to know many parts and machine work people. 701 652 3289. Either one of those would give you an estimate for boring, I am sure.

 

[greenmech]

How about getting a used block? Should be a few good one left. Ron MN

 

[jd2cyl1943]

(quoted from post at 17:59:19 01/04/23) Call community colleges and diesel trade schools to see if it coud be done as an educational experience Jim

Yeah that's a good idea. All of you have great suggestions. And Ron, I looked into that and found a good block "guaranteed no cracks" for $300. Now, how can one guarantee no cracks if it isn't Magnafluxed? :?

 

[rustred]

There is more to it than that. First u locate the pistons ,
then u bore the block to your piston size. Pistons come
first on the bench then the work starts. Better have at
least 1K in your pocket.

 

[rustred]

A magnifying glass would work also. But , you better be
Checking to see if it is the correct bore if the plan is to
use your old pistons. As it might have been bored at one
time.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 19:43:38 01/04/23)

(quoted from post at 17:59:19 01/04/23) Call community colleges and diesel trade schools to see if it coud be done as an educational experience Jim

Yeah that's a good idea. All of you have great suggestions. And Ron, I looked into that and found a good block "guaranteed no cracks" for $300. Now, how can one guarantee no cracks if it isn't Magnafluxed? :?

That "guaranteed no cracks" block is going to need machine work so all you would be doing is wasting $300 that you don't have on parts that you can't use.

If a block is going to need to be machined, you may as well machine the one you have as long as it is good.

Finding machined blocks with matched pistons for $100 was an extremely lucky thing 15 years ago. You're not going to find a deal that even comes close to that these days. "I had all the machine work and got all new parts for $100 in 1964." How is that relevant now?

 

[Rich'sToys]

Not that this is relevant either, but 15 years ago is more like 2008, not 1964!

 

[Steve@Advance]

Is there an obvious reason it needs to be bored and decked?

Unless it's had something bad happen, those were forgiving of being less than perfect. A lot depends on
the intended use. If it's a working tractor, it needs to be right. If it's a parade/show tractor you might
can get by with hand honing and a set of rings if it is only showing normal wear.

 

[jd2cyl1943]

I thought of that, but it has pitting in the bore.

 

[Crazy Horse]

Be careful with the spending young feller ..... you can dump a lot of money into a project that later on you might wish you had. Oh sure, look at all the experience and fun you'll have. OK, take all of that experience and fun and if you have $2 you can buy yourself a cup of coffee. I'm not raining on your parade, just saying to be careful.

 

[560Dennis]

You have a metal shop at your high school , you can do it .

 

[gene bender]

you are doing this for show correct just hone the walls and new rings
why spend all that money when you will never get it back its just like
throwing money away

 

[jd2cyl1943]

My concern is that the rings would catch in the pitting. Is that possible? Also the head is in need of serious work. The valves are all stuck and there looks like there is very little valve seat left as well. Not to mention the crank, which has tons of dents and scratch's in the rod journals. The rods need re babbitted as it's worn to the backing. Does the crank need ground or is it okay with light service (shows, some occasional work, mostly just for driving around)?

 

[Steve@Advance]

I would start with finding a hand drill hone, either a 3 stone type or a ball type. You might find a
loaner at the auto supply. Wet hone it with solvent, diesel, Safety Clean, kerosene, etc. See how it
comes out. No, the rings won't catch in the pits, but the pits can trap and transfer oil into the upper
cylinder, as the rings can't scrape the oil away that is hiding in the pits.

Will it be a problem? Hard to say without seeing it. For a show tractor... It may not be the best, but
will probably run a long time as long as you watch the oil.

As for the heads, take them apart. Find a spring compressor, again the Loan A Tool program at the auto
supply. Take them apart, note which valve goes in which hole. Clean everything up, wire brush in a drill
works good for removing carbon. Check out the valve sealing surface and the seat. Usually, they can be
lapped. Get some valve lapping compound, grab the stem with the drill, pull the valve against the seat
and spin it. It will leave a gray mark where the seat and valve meet. If the gray is continuous around
the seat and valve face, it will seal.

The crank journals and rod bearings, hard to say without seeing them. As long as the bearing isn't beat out with excess play, or been run out of oil and galled/seized/hot discoloration, they will probably be OK. Better a little loose than too tight if you try to tighten them up. Pits, as in rust pits, or has something hit the journal? Pits are not too bad as long as the metal isn't raised around the pit from being dinged. Some filing and polishing will generally take care of it, just don't want anything standing up that will cut into the bearing surface.

Hint: Some big plastic tubs and full strength Purple Power make a good parts cleaner/soaker. Oven
cleaner is good for baked on grease. Both will strip paint.

Take lots of pictures as you disassemble, bag and label parts as you clean them, keep everything
organized to prevent getting scattered and lost. Clear and clean, designated tables make a good place to
lay out the project and stay organized. Avoid the floor and random stashing, good way to lose things!

Have a plan. Don't take on more than you can handle financially or emotionally. Easy to get overwhelmed
and discouraged. Keep your goals doable in a reasonable time frame, even if you don't get everything
done, consider it a work in progress and get it back together enough to see it run and move!

These old tractors were designed to be field serviceable with minimal equipment and basic mechanical
abilities. Take advantage of that offer! It's now a thing of the past!

 

[Leroy]

Don't give pits a second thought,