Brake-in recommendation

[TDJD]

I?ve got my R just about put back together after rebuilding the engine.
When I first start it up, how should I run the tractor to brake in the
new engine?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[teddy52food]

Drive it like you stole it. Watch the oil pressure and water temp closely.

 

[MSM]

Vary the engine speed and load. Just letting it sit and idle will do it no good. Once you are satisfied the oil pressure and temp are good and there are no leaks, hook it to a disc and gradually increase the load. Try to avoid full throttle for the first few hours. Best case scenario would be to break it in on a dyno

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

Are you using brake in oil? I have been adding Lucas Break In Additive to the Deere break in oil. I also use a dyno to work them. Tom

 

[David G]

Warm it up, retorque as needed, then put it on a load and run all day, at varying throttle settings.

 

[TDJD]

When you say ?Vary the engine speed and load? what do you mean by load? Also is there something other than a disc? The reason I?m asking is because the fields here in Michigan are to wet, and frozen to get on.
Thanks.

 

[TDJD]

No I?m not using a brake in oil. I just put 15-40w Deere on in. Would it be beneficial to drain it out and put brake in oil in?
Thanks

 

[TDJD]

When you say ?retorque as needed? what should I be retorqueing?
Thanks

 

[Cliff Nelson]

Yes, it would be better to use break-in oil to allow the rings to seat. I have been using Lucas break-in oil that I get through Hy-Capacity. Break-in oils cost a little more but it is worth it to get the rings seated properly. Deere oil is good oil but it is 'too good' as the anti-wear additives will prevent the normal wear during the break-in period. I recommend break-in oil for the first 100 hrs then change to whatever you normally use. Varied speeds and loads during break-in period and avoid excessive idling.

 

[ss55]

Dumb question:
Is John Deere's break-in oil also recommended for two cylinder tractors or just the modern tractors?

 

[John in MD]

Run it for a few minutes to look for leaks, then hook it to a dynamometer at PTO speed and let it set the rings 15 minutes higher then lower but let it work for 10-15 hours or it will never seat the rings. If you don't have access to a dyno put it to work at PTO speed and very the rpms up and down for about the first 10-15 hours change your oil and put it to work. Should be good for another 60 years.

 

[TDJD]

The John Deere dealer has a dyno. I thought it wasn?t a good idea to put a R on a dyno, because the pto drive is weak. Is the true or not?

 

[Olddantucker]

I tried to send a picture of the run in period out of my 830 manual but I don?t know how it says. Your new tractor was shipped from the factory with a special breaking in oil in the crankcase. To be sure that all the bearings surfaces will be properly lubricated operate according to the following table. 10 hours with approximately 1/4 load at full throttle. 10 hours with 1/4 to 1/2 load at full throttle. Note at no time should the tractor be operated under full load until it has run long enough for the engine and crankcase oil to warm up thoroughly At the end of this 20 hour break in period drain the crankcase oil service oil filter and fill crankcase with heavy duty detergent type oil operate next 20 hours at 1/2 to 3/4 load. Tractor is then ready for full load service

 

[John in MD]

You're not squeezing the resistance down to the point of stalling the tractor. If my memory isn't to foggy an R is only about 50 hp. So you start out easy load about 15-20 hp load @ 540 pto for 15-20 min don't keep rpm constant at first 5 minutes at 540, then 5 minutes below 540, then 5 minutes above 540. Next 15 minutes 35-40 hp resistance same thing as above very engine speed. Idle engine down with no load for a minute or two and shut down engine and check fluid levels. Wait a few hours until everything is cooled down to air temp. Start up and run 30 minutes at 35-40 same thing as above but 10 minute intervals. Now put 50 hp load for 2-3 hours, shut down and check fluids. This time let it cool. This time hang 50 hp load at 540rpm for 5 hrs. Don't leave and comeback, keep an eye on things while you're doing break in, when you shutdown this time re torque the head bolts. Dump your oil and change filter, refill with what ever oil you're going to use (15-40 is fine) and take it to the field and work it like you used to before rebuild. Rings should be seated.

 

[JIM MN]

Some comment.. Use break in oil plus lucas for 100 hrs.. Use a dyno for a controlled engine break-in.. Rent one to use. Don't let engine idle for any length of time.. Do retorque engine head nuts, but first run engine up to operating temperature of 200 degrees + - . Then pulling down all nuts again to 208 foot pounds and adjust valves again... Good to go...

 

[Olddantucker]

I just simply repeated what was in the manual I think John Deere ought to know something about a John Deere.

 

[teddy52food]

Has anyone had to tear one down again after 100 hours? I wonder if the machine marks on the rings still show?