Broken studs

[Ken Combs]

Way back when one of the specialty tool companies made thin-walled hole saw specially for that. Maybe an old time auto machinist may have one. This dates back to flathead ford days though so may be hard to find

 

[560Dennis]

Way back when one of the specialty tool companies made thin-walled hole saw specially for that. Maybe an old time auto machinist may have one. This dates back to flathead ford days though so may be hard to find

Interesting

 

[jaoneill]

On an encouraging note, I filled the holes over the studs with penetrant this morning, by noon the level was down 1/2" in one, 1/4" in the other. Topped them off so we'll see.... If they continue to accept the penetrant I'll keep refreshing it for a few days then try to pop the head loose again. I had actually thought of trying the phosphoric acid but decided that discretion was the better part of valor......

 

[Janicholson]

If you can get at the side of a stud in the hole with a very small punch, you can encourage side to side movement that can enhance the action of the juice. Jim

 

[Mcrafty1]

If you have enough clear flat surface a mag drill would be a safe way to drill them out, at least enough to loosen them and easy out the remainder maybe.

 

[showcrop]

^^ Or bend a rod?????

Everyone else knows that 560 Dennis was suggesting cranking by hand without him needing to state it.

 

[37 chief]

Finally getting serious about swapping engines in my Tractomotive (Allis) TL-10. Donor engine (Allis W-226) came with the machine when I bought it and seller said it was sound but, has been sitting for the three years I've had it and likely for 20-30 years prior, but it does spin. Thought it would be wise to check into it and maybe freshen it up, and then the fun began. Head mostly bolts on but there are 4 studs and head was not about to slip off over them. After soaking for a week with penetrant two of them came loose with my stud remover tool but the other two snapped off. One still had 1/2" of thread exposed and I've welded a nut on it but the 800 ft lbs that my 1/2" drive impact gun develops won't stir it and I hesitate to use the 3/4" drive that would most likely snap it off again. (the small gun on the stud remover tool was what sheared them off initially). What are thoughts on heating the block below the head where the studs are threaded in?

I have had good success blowing the broken piece out with a cutting torch. The cast iron melts at a higher temperature. A hole first, in the broken piece speeds up the process. stan

 

[RedMF40]

Trailer it to your local scrap yard. Chain it down so it won’t lift or move. Give the operator of the electro-magnet crane ten bucks.

This was not intended to be helpful.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Trailer it to your local scrap yard. Chain it down so it won’t lift or move. Give the operator of the electro-magnet crane ten bucks.

This was not intended to be helpful.

Particularly to the crane operator .

 

[randyrenfro7]

Call me a nut, but have you ever tried lemon juice on a frozen fastener? I have seen it work.

 

[MarkB_MI]

At this point, I wouldn't do anything that's going to make the stud even shorter than it is already. If you can get the head off without breaking the stud, you'll want something left of the stud to grab. I'd focus on getting the head off.

Can you remove the piston out the bottom, make sure the valves are closed, then insert a 2x4 into the cylinder and pound the head loose?

 

[jaoneill]

Update: took some of the above advise and drilled the studs out yesterday, left about an inch of each protruding from the block; should make final removal of the studs easier. Haven't lifted it off yet but had the head free of the studs when I knocked off last night. Thanks all for the ideas and encouragement.