Buying a baler

[Joseph V.]

I'm looking around for a used baler at a good price. I am wondering what I should look for on it - any brands or models that were lemons- and things to check on the baler to see what condition it is in. Any advice would be appreciated!

 

[thurlow]

Might help to know if you're looking at small square wire, small square twine, big square, small round, medium round, large round. I'd probably pass on an A-C roto-baler.

 

[TGIN]

We re all looking for a used baler at a good price !! You did nt say round or square . As far as brand go s what is the local dealer support , also what brand is in the neighborhood . Dont get a oddball that nobody can help you fix when the dealer is closed . Around here the NewHollands out number the rest 2 to 1 but that s the dealer in the area . Dont here many people complain about them . I have a NH but if I was in green country that s what I would have .

 

[flying belgian]

Just get a New Holland and be done with it.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Whats a New Holland? LOL!

 

[DeltaRed]

New Hollands...I hate em!...but i use em(had 6; 1 #78,2# 282,3#283) they're good balers.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 23:40:59 06/03/10) Just get a New Holland and be done with it.

I'd get a John Deere!!!!!!!!

 

[Farmallhal]

Where I live, the New Holland brand out number the JD's by probably 10 to 1 and is probably due to the great dealer support in this area. Our NH supporting dealer has a 24/7 operation if necessary during hay season with someone who's been in the business for 60 plus years. In contrast the JD dealer is open the hours posted on the door and the parts counter and service area for the most part are staffed with kids working their first jobs. The JD dealer seems more interested in lawn equipment, toys and accessories then farm machinery it appears.

 

[ryanwheelock]

Some say New Holand or JD but I'm a IH guy but it all depends on how it was taken care of. Some say this model is bad or dont buy that one. I've had balers that people say are a bad model but the owners before took care of them and were great balers.
Ryan

 

[Errin OH]

Guess that depends on what you call a good price.

In the, a grand and under range, your looking at older JD, NH, IH, Ford, AC, and other discontinued balers. Things to watch for are welds and rust. If it’s got rust holes in it it’s about done for. If it’s been all welded up, it's likely all used up. Parts for these machines can be hard to come buy, but most bearings can be crossed with effort. I would limit myself to a JD, NH or Ford just for the knotter’s. They have changed little in fifty years, although I do not know what knotters an AC used.

In the 2 - 4 grand range you move up to a baler that most parts are still obtainable. Most will be the New Holland or John Deere brand. But some of the later Fords, IH and AC will fall in this price range. Parts for the latter can be a head ache but out there. They should be in working condition, needing very little to go to the field. As for the NH and JD they may not be in is as good as condition. NH 2xx and 3xx series used a sliding rail in the feed section above the pickup. Look closely to see if it has exploded in the past. JDs where just about built proof, but still used an auger. Look for side movement and or signs that the auger bearing has been/is loose.

When you get above 5 grand, you’re pretty much looking at a used, usually supported, model from various manufactures. Local dealer support is more important than the ability to order parts on the internet. Most folks spending more than a few grand on a baler need the support due to the investment in the crop(s) and/or amount of it. Waiting for parts to show up is not an option. Here it comes down to knowing what you’re looking at. I have seen several NH575's that need a complete overhaul to make a bale.

Regardless of where you fall I suggest if you do not know what you’re looking at find someone who does and take them with you. Have the seller run it at speed and make a couple bales for you if they claim its ready to go. I have seen many a newbie pay ridiculous sums of money for balers that barely qualified for scrap metal.

Some more common things to look at on all balers;

Needles – Welded, eyelets grooved, needle basket play.
Plunger – Fit (side movement), damage, bearings.
Bale shoot – Connections to frame, rust, bent/hammered out.
Pick up – Rust, wear, bent/hammered out.
Knotters – Over all wear, bent, proper operation.

 

[James Howell]

Fixed chamber <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7X1TPAUgf38">KRONE</a> @ $1,200.