Calcium Cloride

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Well, the little old ford is having tracton problems in the deep snow around here (Central PA) and i have thought about adding calcium cloride to the tires. First off, will this effect the stability of the thing (yes it is low to the ground but i flipped a tractor a few years back and have been extra careful since) and second, the tire shop said the tractor will ride alot harder with the tires filled. Is this true? How much difference is there?
 
I would try to get a set of wheel weights to bolt on if I were you.Calcium does make it ride rougher and it also eats up the rims,there was rumer of a anti-freeze for tires that wouldn't damage steel,you might want to check on that.Just my opinion.
 
The tractor will NOT ride any harder. IN fact, with no weight in the tires and the tractor being lightweight itself, the tires are bouncy.

With weight in the tires, you will get extra tracton and an increased stability of the whole tractor.

Now, weight without chains on the tires in the snow is rather useless.

Remember, make sure that your tubes are in good shape, as calcium is highly corrosive. DO yourself a favor and get the weight put in the tires... you'll never regret it.
 
No comment on stability except it sure won't be worse it the tractor is operated properly. All of my big tractors are loaded with calcium cloride and I don't have a problem with ride. Ride has a lot to do with air pressure. It sure does help with traction. I might add that I don't drive a tractor for the ride.
 
i run calcium chloride in number of my tractors for ballast. its inexpensive weight, stays low for balance. i run 5lb per gallon mix. i just loaded my 240, 12.4 24 tires, ran 60 dollars for chloride. added 333 lbs per tire. use new tubes if you are going to load them. i also like to paint the inside of my rims with por 15 conversion primer. if you do get a leak, fix it right away.
 
There is nothing like a pair of chains then you can go they will run around 125 for a set. I made mine for a B FARMALL from a set of larger ones had to shorten the bars and total length but it is worth it cause when its slippery you can go. They arent that hard to install. You only need the ones with the straight bars across. They dont ride bad and over the last 20 or so yrs when needed cant complain.
 
Mike,

Out in this country (and I don't know why either, unless maybe it is just from out of old habit) they put the solution inside the tube.

Strange as it may sound, the stuff doesn't even touch the rim. Doesn't seem to hurt the tube much either.

Don't know how they do it in the higher populated areas tho.

Allan
 
They put it straight in the tires here. I personally find it makes larger tractors ride much rougher compared to air-filled but boys it sure does help with traction. On ice and snow though you need chains noo-doubt-aboot-her!
 
Would you believe with fluid in the tires your less likely to flip it over because all the weight is close to the ground. My self I use wiper fluid in my tires now days because of the problem with rim rust if you get a hole in the tube. Cost is a little bit more but worth it in the long run or at least thats what I think. I also fill my own tires so I watch for WWF to go on sale and buy it buy the case and most of the time I get a little better price that way also
Hobby farm
 
I must be in the same kind of country...
I'd never heard of putting calcium in a tire without a tube before I started hanging around this forum. I've never had much trouble with CaCl either so long as the tubes wern't allowed to leak for an extended period of time. That's the only time it eats wheels...
I never noticed that they rode harder loaded either.

Rod
 
Use a 50/50 mix of anti freeze or 30 below windshield washer fluid. If your tube springs a leak or if you are running tubeless tires, you [b:654c4848f0]will[/b:654c4848f0] be buying a new rim.
 
(quoted from post at 15:55:55 12/17/07) Use a 50/50 mix of anti freeze or 30 below windshield washer fluid. If your tube springs a leak or if you are running tubeless tires, you [b:4f132230f4]will[/b:4f132230f4] be buying a new rim.

You are [b:4f132230f4]WRONG![/b:4f132230f4] We have had a leak repaired on just about every one of our tractors with CaCl in the tires. No rim failures and Dad has had some of these tractors for almost 40 years! Our 2590 has tubeless radial tires with Calcium Chloride in them, not a problem in about ten years thus far and I expect it will last the life of the tractor easily.

When you do actually get a leak, GET IT REPAIRED and then RINSE the CaCl off the rim! It seems so simple to me...

Just because the rims are rusted off of 60 year old tractors that have been sitting in the trees for the last 20 years does not mean the CaCl is at fault. The tires sprung leaks and were never repaired!
 
I have never heard of anyone running tubless tires loaded with calcium. I can't imagine any tire vendor giving a thumbs up on the idea. I use automotive antifreeze and water in the garden tractors. Antifreeze has a rust inhibitor that protects the rims. The only thing you would ever need to worry about if you got a hole is the dirt sticking to the garage floor. Anything else is going to make a mess of the shop.
 
I have run into tubeless tires loaded with Calcium Chloride. Always surprises me. I did one last spring that was on a 8 year old tractor. The rim looked good, not a sign of rust. The key is to have the fluid over the top of the rim so it is always submerged to keep air off it. After looking at it I would actually consider it on my own, but not recommend it to a customer although I would do it if asked.

I do sell a fair amount of Rimguard in new utility tractors with loaders. It costs the same if the tire is tubeless since they don't have to pay for a tube and installing it. Having the center of gravity that much lower really makes the tractor more stable.
 
I with ya. We will always use the calcium in our tires, and of all of our tractors the only one that has any damage is the 550 my brother just got, so it isn't his fault. As long as the tubes are in good shape and the stem don't leak, the rim won't rust.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Ahhhh, The most frequently discussed topic on the internet;)

From all I've seen and done, Cal/Chlor (or any fluid fill) doesn't make a tractor ride "hard" so much as it just makes 'em ride "heavier", 'cause they ARE heavier. Fluid will give a tire a more solid feel, especially with higher air pressures. But, you don't need to run air pressures as high when they're filled. I've ran 15 to 18 psi in some tires when simply air filled. Same tires, same tractor, same use, I'd usually run 8 to 10 psi when fluid filled. (In my case, typically 40/50 hp utilities, 5000 to 7000lb ballasted weight, with 28" or 30" wheels) No harsh ride from what I can tell. A great deal will depend on what brand and ply of tire we're talking about too.

I've tried Cal/chlor, windshield washer fluid, and cast weights. Cal Chlor is less hassle (for me) cheaper, and provides more lbs per gallon than wwf. I've owned my oldest tractor for 37 years. There's been the occasional leak. I clean it up and fix the tire/tube as soon as I see a problem. When I replaced tires on that tractor 2 months ago, there was no rust on the rims. Under all but the worst of conditions, most wheels will go 40 or 50 years without significant rust if properly maintained (while using cal chlor)

Cast weights are EXPENSIVE nowdays. (w/ scrap and steel prices so high) It takes a pile of weights to equal the ballast that a filled tire can produce. For an old man like me, it's MUCH easier to handle a plastic barrel, a garden hose, and a small electric pump than it is to sling 150lb wheel weights by myself. Advantage fluid.

The weight in a fluid filled tire is carried lower than cast weights bolted to a wheel center. Advantage fluid for lower center of gravity (stability) Also, that "firmness" from fluid filled tires can provide more stability.

Farmers are usually an industrious and thrifty lot. They go with what works best at the best price. Fluid filling tires has been around since the beginning of pneumatic tires on farm tractors and is STILL the most popular way to weight a tractor. There's good reason for that. Every possible option has it's advantages and disadvantages. In the end, go with what works best FOR YOUR OWN NEEDS.
 
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