Cannot split engine from tranny

[SkyMoCo]

I've restored a bunch of [other brand] tractors over the years and was recently just given a 9N that has sat in a field for 20+ years. Long story short, mice took up residence in the clutch housing and filled it with stuff, that turned into mud. I have the engine/tranny split apart about 1/4 inch and that's all that it will move. Pulled the oil pan thinking I could unscrew the bolts for the clutch plate but they are rusted as tight as can be and just round off as soon as I try and loosen them. I really don't want to use a cutting torch on them as it's still full of mouse leftovers. Any idea's? Should I try and wedge them apart? Use some sort of saw on the bolt heads?

 

[warbaby]

The only thing that should be holding it together at this point are the splined input shaft and the clutch plate where it slides on that shaft. Work it back and
forth, back and forth with a pry bar until you slowly clear the grooves on the input of rust and debris and it slides apart. A little spray lube of your favourite
brand directed at that point wouldnt hurt.

 

[SkyMoCo]

I sprayed it down pretty well, but not sure if it's getting to where it needs to go and acutally reaches the splines.

Why would someone would drill holes in the housing, there are two on the right side and one on the left (with a homemade cover screwed on. Any idea why someone would do that?

With wrenches holding the top apart while I have some lift on the front of the block, this provides constant pressure and hopefully it just breaks free over time.

 

[SkyMoCo]

I'd post photos but they keep getting flagged when I do...

Let's see if this works.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mVrpMb8Uk5nygRv98

This post was edited by SkyMoCo on 12/27/2021 at 12:14 pm.

 

[Den N Ms]

SkyMoCo
, Are you able to turn the engine over? If so remove the plugs ,add a couple tablespoons of oil in each cylinder.Then spray clutch shaft best you can with like PB Blaster.Then roll the engine over while prying or jack pressure against it.Turning the engine over should help it pop loose.

 

[SkyMoCo]

It turns over once I got rid of all the nesting stuff in the bellhousing. I'll add turning it over along with my jumping up and down on it.

 

[R Geiger]

Make a couple more posts and you will be able to post photos! security measure!

 

[SkyMoCo]

After spending a couple hours prying it back and forth I finally got my cold chisel out and chiseled the heads off all the clutch cover bolts. I now have a separate engine and transmission. The clutch disk is still firmly rusted onto the tranny shaft, but at least now I can soak it in my favorite fluids for a while.

 

[warbaby]

The extra holes were probably put there to try and get oil to a squeaky throwout bearing. Now that you have it apart, how many mangled bits to starter drives have
you found in the mouse debris? My personal record is 3- so far!

 

[SkyMoCo]

I'll have to let you know. Right now the clutch disk is still firmly welded to the input shaft. PB Blaster is working on it so it should be free soon...

How does one get that front pully off? Mine seems like it's just pressed on, but it's made of sheetmetal...

 

[Jim L WA]

I wonder if the holes were bored into the housing because the clutch was already stuck and the P.O. was trying to spray something in there to free it up. Then of course the mice got in.
The front pulley just slips over the front of the crank shaft and is held in place by the bolt/ratchet.

 

[SkyMoCo]

This is getting way more fun. It looks to me like the end of my crankshaft is broken off or is that just the end of the nut?

And to answer your question, there was a homemade cover on the bellhousing holes, so I think it was ran that way for a long time. Maybe it was stuck once, fixed by drilling holes and then sat?

This post was edited by SkyMoCo on 12/28/2021 at 10:30 am.

 

[Jim WI]

I think I'm seeing a flat-head, slotted machine screw threaded into the end of your crankshaft. This is exactly what held the pulley on for one of the 2Ns I've had that formerly had a loader installed. The mulitlobed piece around it looks like it might be some sort of pump drive, although I've never seen one like it before.

Picture below is just for the machine screw.

This post was edited by Jim WI on 12/28/2021 at 04:50 pm.

 

[SkyMoCo]

That makes good sense. I wish mine looked exactly like yours... It will eventually.

I didn't buy this to put a loader on it, but it might be handy. I wonder if its actually worth it? I was mostly interested in pulling a rake to smooth out the driveway. Can you actually pick up anything with it?

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 23:21:32 12/28/21)
That makes good sense. I wish mine looked exactly like yours... It will eventually.

I didn't buy this to put a loader on it, but it might be handy. I wonder if its actually worth it? I was mostly interested in pulling a rake to smooth out the driveway. Can you actually pick up anything with it?

Loaders work but it makes the tractor hard to operate. The screw is 5/8-18 and should be pretty easy to get out if you drill/grind the head off. I suggest a cap screw as a replacement with or without a loader. Pulley is #192160 and loader drive hub is #192161.

TOH

 

[Lynn Patrick]

These old Fords are so nimble they will get in & out of some very tight places & you will find an amazing number of implements for the 3 point. About the only implement I won't put on one is a front loader as my old arms don't have the strength they used to have!