carb on 9n ford

[vjd]

As soon as it got cold out my 9n ford would run then quit all most like you turned off the ing. then after a while you can start it again. the carb turnes white from frost Would this be carb iceing and if it is what can I do with it to stop the iceing

 

[old]

Yep that is carb icing but most of the time it is not what causes an engine to die. Most of the time a problem like yours is weak or lost spark which can be caused by a bad ignition switch, bad coil and a few other things depending on it it is 6 or 12 volts etc.

 

[HCooke]

What Old say is true. You need to check immediately as soon as it stops to determine if it is fuel or electric. Use an old spark gapped to 3/16 attach any plug wire and ground the plug to a good ground and observe for spark. Remove the plug from the bottom of the carb and see if you get a steady stream of fuel out the carb. Once you get it narrowede down to spark or fuel post back and someone will talk you thru the rest of it.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Carb icing is caused by just the right air temp, humidity & fuel mixture. Make a carb heater out of tinfoil to get some of that manifold heat around the carb throat. But, like Old said, chances are very good that you have other problems.

It is important for you to tell us if your tractor has a 6 volt or 12 volt electrical system. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine.

It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & fuel in the right mixture. For the moment, forget about compression & concentrate on narrowing the problem down to spark or fuel.

There are three very important tools you always need to have in your N tool box: a 3 inch piece of wire w/ alligator clips on each end, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least 3/16” ( ¼” is better) and a 7/16 box end wrench. (see tip # 50 at the link below) And, you really do need a working ammeter on the tractor; it is a very important diagnostic tool. With these tools, you can quickly narrow down most N problems to spark or fuel.

Next time it stops, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two. First, check for fuel. Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem. So, next, turn the key on, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the needle doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it move back & forth slightly? Next, get the old plug, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 3/16” gap, you probably don’t have a spark problem. If it won’t jump the 3/16” gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter needle shows a constant discharge, or doesn’t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem. If it doesn’t have spark after you jump the ignition switch, post back for more info on further troubleshooting. (and do not forget to turn the ignition switch off; see tip # 38)

If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)

There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That’s why removing the bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to do it. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air, so that's why you need to use a spark plug. Or, a store bought plug checker (on the left in the picture). Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air creates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running.

50 Tips

 

[Dell (WA)]

vjd........gee what a co-inkydink, GB from MT posted a detailed explanation about carb icing, just down the page alittle bitt. You know it ain't against the law to read what sumbuddy else posts. Suggest you make yerself smarter and READ.

Yes, CARB ICING can cause instant engine OFF. The very act off carburetion sucks heat outta the air and iff'n the air moisture is just right, guess what??? ICING!!! And sometimes it is only on the INSIDE where you can't see it.

Did you know that light airplanes have a knob to pull for "ENGINE HEAT" as they are just about to land??? Wannna guess why??? How would you feel when yer airplane engine quits just as yer about to land??? Ooopsie???

Did you know even yer BelchFire-V8 has carb heater built into the intake manifold???

The cure for N-Carb icing is some aluminum foil to trap some exhaust HEAT and warm yer carb. Simple, eh? .......respectfully, Dell

 

[Anonymous-0]

Don't forget these items to:

QUICK ASSESSMENT ON STALLING

(1) runs about 1-min and quits, restarts in about 5-mins; BAD condenser
(2) runs about 5-mins and quits, restarts in about 10-mins; CLOGGED upper fueltank filter
(3) runs about 15-mins and quits, restarts in about 30-mins; BAD ignition switch
(4) runs about 1-hour and quits, restarts after 4-hr or overnite cool down, its probably the coil
(5) runs for about 1/2-hr and quits, restarts after you check yer gastank fuel level, clogged dome vent,

 

[old]

LOL tell him not me LOL I have been doing this for years and know that stuff but since you posted it to me he may or may not even see it LOL