Carb tweaking....

[HanksterV]

Seemingly got everything squared away on my 9N.....carb is the last part. After 1st "rebuild" attempt....had both flooding and hard starting issues. Went back in, and as someone here suggested...the needle seat wasn't ALL the way in!!! Reset that, cleaned it all out once again, set float to spec etc. BEFORE reworking the carb....you only touched the choke below 55 or so...any warmer...FLOOD CITY!!!
NOW, Choke to start..temp don't matter. Even HOT, you have to give it a tug to start.Is this typical???
Also, in setting the idle mix and economizer screws...Got economizer set ok...but the idle mix..runs highest rpm all the way in. Tried setting idle, then mixture, then idle, back and forth as suggested....but always get highest rpm all the way in. I have it running at 3/8 out now. Is this typical too? or have I still missed something??

 

[Anonymous-0]

these old girls all have different personalities due to engine condition, ie. ring wear-valves-compression-vacuum etc. what works on mine wont work on yours. my idle sets on a half. suggested pre-set is one turn. sounds like you have yours where it runs best. your up draft might be a little weak, causeing the need for choke. you might check the gaskets on the carb and exhaust manifold. RP

 

[HanksterV]

Another "dumb" question....when starting/restarting.....should you have the throttle set at the idle position....half throttle...What?? Would throttle closed at start help draw fuel(more vacuum) easier?? This tractor is going to be a user, so I need to get it down to a science!

 

[Dell (WA)]

Hankster.......much to the dismay of environmental bureaucrats, every carb adjusts slightly different for the same engine. You just can NOT set a carb by "counting turns". It'll gittcha in the ballpark but you haffta adjust the idlemix by the way the engine responds. Adjust for MAX idle speed, NOT smoothest idle. Iff'n MAX idle speed is full closed, then guess what??? its FULL CLOSED and NOT 3/8-turn. Understand??? Remember, the side-pointing idlemix is BASSACKWARDS, out for lean, IN for Enrich. This means yer 3/8-turn is LEAN and will cause hard starting. Engines always haffta have a "rich" mixture for starting. This is what yer "choke" usually provides. Isn't that amazing???..........respectfully, Dell

 

[old]

Again it depends on the tractors. Some start easy with it wide open others with it at idle. No 2 engines are the same and its one of those things you have to play with till you figure out just what is right.
Hobby farm

 

[Dell (WA)]

Hankster.........would you believe yer N-Owners manual addresses that very question???

Ford states: "To start the engine, turn the ignition switch on, and partially open the throttle. Hold the clutch pedal down and press the starter button. If engine doesn't start promptly, pull the choke button out for several revolutions. Use the choke as needed until the engine runs smoothly. During cold weather, it may be desirable to let the engine run at 1/3 throttle for 5 minutes to warm up."

Isn't that amazing what you can learn reading the owners manual........respectfully, Dell

 

[HanksterV]

Well that'll give me enough to go one tomorrow nite!! Trying to get her done, what started out a few months back as a "tune up" because it up and died one day, turned into a full blown rework/restore!! Time for it to go back to work!!! And DELL....I'd look at the manual, iff'n I had one!! (that IS on my list of must gets, as well as the updated FO-4, you know the one thats 10 times as big as my OLD one??) All a factor of time and CASH!!

 

[Britcheflee]

When cold my 8N starts almost immediately with 3/4 choke and about 1/4 throttle - I then gradually release the choke....when HOT its a whole different story and I am still trying to find the perfect setting for it to fire up - sometimes it does and other times it just will not untill I let it sit for a while.


Lee

 

[A. Bohemian]

Quote: ''Isn't that amazing what you can learn reading the owners manual........respectfully, Dell''

Some of the most useful advice ever given on these boards, yet people WILL ignore it, for some reason.

Quote: ''when HOT its a whole different story and I am still trying to find the perfect setting for it to fire up - sometimes it does and other times it just will not untill I let it sit for a while.''

Modern cars have given us unrealistic expectations. Most older vehicles with carbs and Kettering systems were hard to start when warm.

I've operated plenty that were not that old (at the time, that is) and were well-maintained, but still wouldn't start up again right away if you accidentally stalled them when they were warm.

We just got a drink of water and waited. Some would start easily again after two minutes, some five, some ten. Really stubborn cases might need twenty; but even then no one suggested pulling the carb apart or messing with the ignition.

It's just how things were.

(We're not talking here about carb FLOODING, which is a distinct issue and can be delt with sometimes by cranking steadily away while maintaining full throttle.

An engine treated this way will genreally start slowly and it is often necessary to ''ride'' the starter button. In addition, it emits a LOT of unburned hydrocarbons.

Thus, dramatic overuse this technique is bad for the starter, bendix gear, ring gear, valves, etc., but it usually doesn't hurt anything if it is only performed occasionally).

 

[HanksterV]

Ok Dell....took yer advice....ran screw in, well 99.999% in anyways....and ahhhhhhh....easy startup, and music to my ears!!!!!!
Life is good!!!!