Carburetor Questions

[NVjeff]

I'm rebuilding the carb on my '43 2N, a Marvel Schebler TSX 241, with the kit I bought at Yesterday's Tractors.

The kit does not come with new seals for the choke and throttle shafts, are o-rings sufficient for these?

The kit comes with three jets, the tractor last ran six years ago in northern MO, I brought it to the high desert of NV.
Do I need to re-jet it for the change in elevation?

Is surface rust in the float bowl a problem? I suspect it's common if the carb is drained after use.
This is the first cast iron carb I've dealt with.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Rejetting should not need to be done.
High desert Nevada? Where?
A simple adj of the carb screw should be sufficient.
Surface rust should not be a problem in minor amounts. If it flakes off into the bowl, then you might have something.
Wanna cheat? Drop a small earth magnet into the chamber. It catches the flakes and not the brass float.
No seals? You might find those in another kit. No guarantee on that one.

 

[OldBlue61]

Wanna cheat? Drop a small earth magnet into the chamber. It catches the flakes and not the brass float.

Brilliant!

 

[Mad Farmer]

Which kit did you buy? You might be able to exchange the kit for the more complete or comprehensive kits?

The choke/throttle shafts have a packing and packing retainer. If the shafts and packing/retainers are not sloppy and still sealing, you could leave them be. Never tried using o-rings. (see attached PDF)

I reuse all the original non-wear parts like jets/nozzle/float/throttle plates, save new ones as spares. Shafts, needles depends on wear

You probably will have to re-tune the carb for higher elevation using idle, idle mixture, and main/power mixture screws. You do that after a rebuild anyway. Original jets should be OK. You didn't mention your new elevation in NM?, MO had to be between ~200'-1700'

Surface/flash rust happens on bare cast iron, just wipe it down with a coat of protective oil. Loose flakes/pitting need to be cleaned out. Careful use of muriatic acid cleans up rust quick, but will dissolve the iron if left on too long.

I attached a carb rebuild PDF for Marvel and Zenith which may help you, has tuning tips for Marvels Save it or print out a hard copy.

 

[JMOR]

IF you go with rubber/silicone o-rings, I would be sure that they sealed and did NOT bind too much for the governor to do its job. Packing is what Ford used & for a reason. Trying to keep dirt out for most part.

 

[NVjeff]

Thanks for the suggestions.
I'm in Carson Valley, about 4800' elevation.

There were no seals on the shafts when I disassembled the carb, it's probably been running like that for years.
I haven't found any o rings of the correct size and I haven't seen a kit with the seals yet either.
I considered valve packing but I don't know if I'd find any that small. I never saw any while I was working with the stuff in engine rooms.

I was hoping to put this together once and be done with it for a while, I have a feeling I'll be fiddling with this carb for a while.
At least it's not hard to get to.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Thanks for the suggestions.
I'm in Carson Valley, about 4800' elevation.

There were no seals on the shafts when I disassembled the carb, it's probably been running like that for years.
I haven't found any o rings of the correct size and I haven't seen a kit with the seals yet either.
I considered valve packing but I don't know if I'd find any that small. I never saw any while I was working with the stuff in engine rooms.

I was hoping to put this together once and be done with it for a while, I have a feeling I'll be fiddling with this carb for a while.
At least it's not hard to get to.

The more complete kits sold here have the packings and the retainers.

 

[NVjeff]

That looks like what they call the comprehensive kit, #182486.
I don't know why I didn't see that when I bought my kit, I got the complete kit, #112445.

Thanks, I'll get one ordered.

 

[Hobo,NC]

That looks like what they call the comprehensive kit, #182486.
I don't know why I didn't see that when I bought my kit, I got the complete kit, #112445.

Thanks, I'll get one ordered.

You can buy the packing, seals and retainers separate they are dirt cheap.
While you are at it get a basic carb gasket kit they are also dirt cheap.

 

[NVjeff]

You can buy the packing, seals and retainers separate they are dirt cheap.
While you are at it get a basic carb gasket kit they are also dirt cheap.

Do you have a source for these parts?
I contacted YT and they don't have them available separately.

 

[Non-farmer]

I rebuilt my carb once, a few years ago. I'll be darned if I remember which kit i got (from here), but being as obsessive-compulsive as I am, I'll guess I got the comprehensive kit too. I don't remember ever thinking, "Oh hell, it didn't come with this." Like you, the plan was to never need to touch it again. So far so good

 

[Hobo,NC]

Do you have a source for these parts?
I contacted YT and they don't have them available separately.

GOGGLE THE PART #

8N9622 Years:1939-64 Throttle Shaft Neoprene Packing​

Your Price: $0.06

8N9689 Years:1939-64 Choke Shaft Felt Backing​

Your Price: $0.60

RETAINER 9N9695
Retainer 9N9591

YT does not allow competition links google Just 8Ns & More

 

[NVjeff]

Thanks Hobo, I appreciate the info.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Thanks Hobo, I appreciate the info.

Cool I added Retainer

9N9591 Years:1939-64 Retainer (Throttle Shaft Seal)​

 

[soaked]

Hi NVjeff,

I see your 43 2N has a TSX241 carb. Probebly ran fine back in MO.
TSX241 came out in 1950 for 8N, with no economizer jet. Then TSX 214-A came out with the eco jet, then a bit later, TSX 241-B came out, also with the eco jet. Hope these are readable...

I have a TSX241 date stamped 4 0-- meaning April 1950. Is has a 0.052 inch econo jet and runs fine at 380 ft elevation.
My understanding from (attatchment #9, and O-T-12 service letter ) is that someone (dealer?) installed the jet, because it "stumbled" and ran poorly.
A very small percentage of TSX241 didnt work with the new 8N9914 jet, and dealers had to repace the entire carb. (and not use the old 9N9914 jet )

Just wondering if your 241 has the eco jet, and if so, what size is it's hole?

Thanks,
John

 

[NVjeff]

Thanks for the info John.
My carb does have the economizer jet, best I can determine is it's between .0315" and .035".
The kit I picked up came with three jets, I plan on re-using the jet that came out and seeing how it runs.
I'll try one of the others if it seems to need something else.

After looking at the pictures for the above supplied part numbers I think my kit has the seals and retainers.
Who ever was into this carb last installed them in the wrong locations, which is why I didn't think I had them.
I need to find a good close up diagram of this carb to make sure I get the right parts back where they belong, and not just put it together the way I found it.

 

[soaked]

Thanks for measuring the jet. A while back I soldered a 0.076 closed, then compared it to the 0.046, and the 0.076 "open" soldered closed was super rich, 0.046 ran nice, and 0.076 hesitated, surged, stumbled, from being too lean. This was done on an aluminum clone 214B.
Here is a link on carb rebuild from expert Gurus ---

How to Rebuild the Marvel Schebler Carburetor - Route 249 How to Rebuild the Marvel Schebler Carburetor

This is a detailed description of How to Rebuild the Marvel Schebler Carburetor. The process includes disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and adjustment.

route249.com

If still not sure, post back

 

[deanostoybox]

Thanks for the info John.
My carb does have the economizer jet, best I can determine is it's between .0315" and .035".
The kit I picked up came with three jets, I plan on re-using the jet that came out and seeing how it runs.
I'll try one of the others if it seems to need something else.

After looking at the pictures for the above supplied part numbers I think my kit has the seals and retainers.
Who ever was into this carb last installed them in the wrong locations, which is why I didn't think I had them.
I need to find a good close up diagram of this carb to make sure I get the right parts back where they belong, and not just put it together the way I found it.

Perhaps this will help

 

[Mad Farmer]

Perhaps this will help

I attached that one post #4. Nice to see all the passages and how they work together.

 

[NVjeff]

Thanks for measuring the jet. A while back I soldered a 0.076 closed, then compared it to the 0.046, and the 0.076 "open" soldered closed was super rich, 0.046 ran nice, and 0.076 hesitated, surged, stumbled, from being too lean. This was done on an aluminum clone 214B.
Here is a link on carb rebuild from expert Gurus ---

How to Rebuild the Marvel Schebler Carburetor - Route 249 How to Rebuild the Marvel Schebler Carburetor

This is a detailed description of How to Rebuild the Marvel Schebler Carburetor. The process includes disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and adjustment.

route249.com

If still not sure, post back

After I checked out the carb diagrams I realized I measured the wrong jet.
I'll look at the carb body tomorrow but the jet I measured was the idle jet.
I see it's dia. is .032"

I didn't look in the economizer hole for the jet.