Case 1370 Injection Pump

[Barry75]

Got a question on swapping injection pumps. First a little background.

I posted earlier with my 1370 issues. Rod"s diagnostics proved effective, thanks Rod! #6 cylinder wasn"t firing. I cracked the fuel line to #6 at the pump and hand primed and sure enough fuel shot out. Double checked a couple other lines and they didn"t shoot fuel.

I"m going to replace the #6 injector while I have access to it as Rod advised it being plugged could have caused the issue at the pump.

Question about pumps. I have another 1370, future restoration project. Both pumps are same part number, start with PES6A and end with 3024, which according to what I"m seeing online were used on both 1370 and 1570 and later 90 and 94 series (23s and 25s).

How do I tell if the pump on the other 1370 is good? Will lifting off the six lines and hand priming and seeing no fuel flow out tell me it is good or are there other things I should check too? That engine does run but rough, haven"t diagnosed its issues but just wondering how to tell if pump is good.

Was thinking it could save time and money for now to swap pumps and then later send the problem pump out for recondition or attempt it myself someday.

Another question - might need to buy new exhaust manifolds since these are in pretty bad shape and leaking at one cylinder (#3, figures, center section). Where best to buy the manifolds and gaskets (exhaust, water pump, tappet covers, etc.)? I see some online here and there but not sure what to trust as far as quality.

In diagnosing the problem I also let the block get cold, was on a block heater before, and removed one battery cable so the starter would lug when cranking. Kept fuel off, cranked it over, and sure enough all 6 seemed to lug the starter hard and evenly. That was a good tip to try too.

Will take the time to adjust tappets while I have it that far apart though. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[casecollectorsc]

I think I would see if I could find the money to fix the bad one. Keep the other one running even tho it has trans trouble. From experience, when you take the manifold off, you will probably twist some studs off. Much cussing, esp. if under that cowl.

 

[Agri King]

Barry, Here's what I would do. If you can push fuel out the tower on the injector pump with the hand primer, Rod is correct the copper washer is broken. You just need to replace the washer. Pay attention to what you are doing and remove the tower & replace the washer. You will need to get the washer from a diesel shop. I wouldn't worry about the injector, unless the tractor still has a miss after you replaced the washer. Buy used manifolds from a salvage yard. I would buy Fel-pro or victor gaskets. If you need that many gaskets you are probably better off to buy a head set.

 

[Barry75]

Thanks for the suggestions. For what I fear I will be charged for reconditioning the pump, and being a pretty decent mechanic once I understand how something works, and having a couple pretty highly skilled mechanics as backup, I am quite tempted to do as you suggest and work on it myself. Is it too difficult to work on #6 side of pump on the tractor or should I take it off?

Good suggestion on the manifolds. They are a bit rough despite the tractor otherwise being very clean and in good shape. The studs are bad rusted. I plan to soak them with WD40 for about 3-4 days before trying to loosen them. I'm worried I will be twisting off studs. Not looking forward to the repair if that happens. But wouldn't be the first stud I've twisted off so not that bad.

Probably a good idea to just buy a head set since I think piecing this out is going to cost me as much anyway.

 

[1370rod]

Barry, I was hesitant to suggest you replace the copper washer in the pump not knowing how familiar you are with such a repair. First, #6 is one of the most difficult to replace with the pump on the tractor. You would be removing the broken washer pieces using a flashlight and a mirror. The person that showed me the steps on the washer replacement told me it was very important that all washer fragments be accounted for. Most washers will just split , but I have seen some in several pieces leading me to believe perhaps a nozzle had fuel restrictions. To my knowledge Case never had any printed material on the procedure. With the pump removed you could bring it to a person familiar with this repair and tell them that is the only thing you want fixed, entire pump rebuild is not necessary if that is the only thing wrong. Case does not furnish the washers, a diesel repair station has them. I do not want to discourage you from attempting this repair, it is not that difficult. Having someone show you what to do and look for on your first attempt would be very helpful. Rod.

 

[1370rod]

Just wanted to mention if you are removing the exhaust manifold and injector lines the plunger towers would be very easy to access making this job much easier for a first timer. Rod.

 

[Dieseltech]

The bronze delivery valve gasket part # is Bosch 1 410 105 001, and holder O ring is 1 410 210 017. The best way is to lay ALL pieces of the broken gasket and make sure you have a full circle on paper. Then you will know all are accounted for. I have used a small screwdriver with grease to get some bits out before. If you need to remove the delivery valve, tip it up sideways first , the lift out with a magnet. If it is lifted straight up the fuel seal MAY lift the barrel too, and may not relocate correctly over the housing locating pin on reassembly. Watch when replacing the delivery valve holder in housing, if the lubed O ring enters the housing and disappears with HAND turning only you are OK, if it gets solid and O ring is still in sight STOP, barrel is not in place and housing will be damaged. Holder torque is 30-32 ft/lb, done 3 times, then check for smooth rack travel.

 

[Anonymous-0]

This repair doesnt need to be expensive. Find a pump shop that only charges for what they really repair and are not trying to fix something that isn't broke. If you don't have luck in your area give me a call I would be glad to do it in my pump room. Change all six delivery valve washers, and the o rings also. I have seen complete pump failure by someone being inside this pump and not handling the job right. It shouldn't cost more than a few hundred bucks to get this pump repaired right. That's not a lot of money to spend on getting it done right with no hassle. Good luck,, Al 231-757-0064

 

[Anonymous-0]

I agree with dieseltech on checking rack travel. I think this is the problem I have seen most. make sure it isn't stuck/ sticky

 

[jlwin]

I don't know if a 2470 pump is the same or not but I have one you could use if push came to shove. I'm not too far from you, I don't want to sell it because it is my backup pump! I have 2 that it will fit and it would be easy to change in a jam!

 

[Dennis Koelling]

Could you please clarify your last sentence: "Holder torque is 30-32 ft/lb, done 3 times, then check for smooth rack travel". What do you mean by "done 3 times"? Thanks for the great info!