Case 1665 motor

dbock

Member
The Chrysler 318 motor in my Case 1665 combine is burning
oil pretty bad. I'm trying to decide if I should rebuild it or if it
would be easier to replace it with a motor from a vehicle. Does
anyone know if you can replace it with a 318 from a Dodge car
or truck? If so, what years would I need to look for?
 
You need the pan from the 318 on the combine. Holds more oil than a car and the pickup for the oil pump is different than a car. They have the old style water pumps on the combine engine that the brackets for the governor bolt to. Exhaust manifolds are center drop and small diameter on the combine engine. Have put on the newer center drop bigger diameter and have exhaust shop make new exhaust pipes to fit.
 
I have rebuilt them using 340 heads and seems to help the hp. Course they only run at 2150 rpm so hard to notice a lot. If it were me I would rebuild the old engine and replace the exhaust valves at least, not grind them but replace them.
 
be my first choice to bebuild the original also as they have more main bolts and the high volume oil pump from the get go, I also wonder if the heads need done and you are losing oil thru the valve guides? just a thought unless it has been dusted or gotten way hot those bottom ends of those motors last a long time just my thoughts cnt
 
What year is your 1665 combine and 318 engine, 1967 or later? Early 318's up to 1966 were "A" engines from the 277, 301 and 318 family. They used the "Poly-sphere" cylinder heads. Newer 318's after 1966 are "LA" engines from the 273, 318, 340, 360 family. The "LA"'s used a more conventional "wedge" cylinder head.

If a 360 block can be used it might be a low cost power increase, fuel economy might be hurt a little. 340 parts bring high money. Before swapping out the entire engine I would compare: compression ratios; cam specifiations; and distributor specifications. I suspect you will need to reuse the cam, distributor and governor from the old engine to keep your peak torque within your governed rpm range. Chrysler used to have a motor home "RV-Truck" cam for low speed torque. That may still be too fast for a combine application. A 340 "Road Runner" cam would have a great loping sound and very good power above 4500 rpm, but it might not be the best cam for in a combine engine. Mopar.com or Direct Connection may have the different cam specifications.

FYI, Mopar Performance published "Mopar Engines, Speed secrets & racing modifications for Chrysler V-8 & 6 Cylinder Engines". There are at least ten editions, the 9th edition was Part No P5249704. There is very little mention of "A" engine performance modifications though.
 
neat info on Mopar stuff you listed thanks ,, the 1665 were only built 1969 and 1970 but I think they would have one year older engines in them if I remember right so oldest should be a 1968 motor if it is still the original one cnt
 
It is a 1969. Do you think a newer engine as long as it is carbureted will work or is there a certain year range to look for? I saw a 360 on craigslist near me, but it looks newer. I might check into. I wonder if the intake manifold will bolt up?
Thanks,
Dan B
 
I talked with a pervious owner and it has been ran hot, so he was thinking it needed a ring job. He also told me he put new rings in a Case 1660 once without removing the motor using a mirror to see what he was doing.

Thanks,
Dan B
 
I am planning to rebuild it eventually, but I was looking for a cheaper option for right now so I can keep it running until I afford a proper rebuild. Do you know if it takes a special rebuild kit from CaseIH or will a kit for a general 318 work? And the same question for the valves?
 
you should be able to get any parts you need from Chysler Industrial, I had their number at one time and talked to them they said at that time they had about any thing I could ask for might be worth checking into
 
The early 1160 and 1060 had the big block, wide block 318. Not that exspensive to get a overhaul kit from NAPA or any parts house. Had a 1665 drop a exhaust valve and break the aluminum piston.Didn't hurt the block bad. Pull the radiator and the engine and overhaul it. They run hot on the exhaust, thats why I replace the 40 year old valves. Have to keep the original carb. as the throttle linkage is opposite that from a car or truck to hook to the governor.
 
Car engine is built for more power but for a short duration. It usually has higher compression so if it's loaded steady like in a combine it will detonate and the pistons melt, usually above the top ring land where it's thinner. I found that out the hard way by putting a pickup engine in a truck. Wait a minute, come to think of it I did it twice. The first one ate a valve and the second one melted pistons. I'm a slow learner. LOL Jim
 
the carbs were different as theyt had the "Power Jet" which gave them more fuel under load, a 1060 engine put out 88 hp and the 1660/1665 was 100 hp I can look and see if they shared the same cams they ran at the same rpms so I am not sure if just the carb made the ponies or if the had different heads/cams ect
 
find a 318-3 engine and drop it in, that's the low compression version most likely that you have now. IF you go with the 360, remember that it's externally balanced not only on the damper but on the flywheel as well.
 
The only reason it will do that is either running the timing too far advanced or using gas with an insufficient octane rating which I don't know where you would find such a thing as today's 88 octane will work in an 8.5to1 engine ok. Which pretty much leaves operator error as a major factor.
 
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