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Tom Arnold
Well-known Member
First off, you need to be 100 percent sure that you are using the correct oil in the hydraulic system. If you did not know this, you are supposed to be changing that oil EVERY YEAR.
If you are not using 20W50 or at least 15W40 MOTOR OIL, then you have the wrong oil in your machine. That should be your very first objective.
Second suggestion... put the tractor up on 4 sturdy jackstands so you can slide under it SAFELY. This is an 800 pound machine that is capable of crushing your skull like a walnut so don't take any chances. Someone you trust needs to be sitting on the tractor while you are underneath it with a very bright trouble-light.
What you are looking for is this. Under the checker plate floor board is a valve that controls how much oil gets sent to the drive motor. YOU operate this valve with the lever on the left side of the steering wheel. IF there is slop in the linkage between your hand and the spool that slides in and out of the valve, then the valve may not be opening all the way.
The little ball-type joint that connects the spool to the linkage rod is a common offender as is the spot where the linkage rod hooks to the travel lever. Your hand moves through a wide arc when controlling this valve but the actual spool only moves about an inch total. And in that inch of travel is full forward speed, full reverse speed and neutral. In other words, it doesn't take much free play on worn parts to dramatically change how these tractors move.
You need to make sure that the linkage IS moving this spool into the valve totally and out of the valve totally.
If you need the name of a dealer to get correct repair parts, send me an e-mail.
The only other way to increase the ground speed is to run the tractor in Hi Range but your 10 horse engine needs to be in top form to push snow in this range. This works for light, dry snow but if you get into heavy snow accumulations or wet snow, then Lo Range is a must.
While a blade is seemingly faster under certain conditions, you can't beat a snowcaster to eat the snow and spit it out 20 feet from where you are. With one of those, you handle the snow ONCE. You don't have to push it again and again to get it parked elsewhere.
There is a possibility that your hydraulic pump is worn badly and not putting out the oil flow needed to obtain the speed you are looking for. You would need help from someone who understands hydraulic systems and how to test them to figure out the condition of the pump.
If you are not using 20W50 or at least 15W40 MOTOR OIL, then you have the wrong oil in your machine. That should be your very first objective.
Second suggestion... put the tractor up on 4 sturdy jackstands so you can slide under it SAFELY. This is an 800 pound machine that is capable of crushing your skull like a walnut so don't take any chances. Someone you trust needs to be sitting on the tractor while you are underneath it with a very bright trouble-light.
What you are looking for is this. Under the checker plate floor board is a valve that controls how much oil gets sent to the drive motor. YOU operate this valve with the lever on the left side of the steering wheel. IF there is slop in the linkage between your hand and the spool that slides in and out of the valve, then the valve may not be opening all the way.
The little ball-type joint that connects the spool to the linkage rod is a common offender as is the spot where the linkage rod hooks to the travel lever. Your hand moves through a wide arc when controlling this valve but the actual spool only moves about an inch total. And in that inch of travel is full forward speed, full reverse speed and neutral. In other words, it doesn't take much free play on worn parts to dramatically change how these tractors move.
You need to make sure that the linkage IS moving this spool into the valve totally and out of the valve totally.
If you need the name of a dealer to get correct repair parts, send me an e-mail.
The only other way to increase the ground speed is to run the tractor in Hi Range but your 10 horse engine needs to be in top form to push snow in this range. This works for light, dry snow but if you get into heavy snow accumulations or wet snow, then Lo Range is a must.
While a blade is seemingly faster under certain conditions, you can't beat a snowcaster to eat the snow and spit it out 20 feet from where you are. With one of those, you handle the snow ONCE. You don't have to push it again and again to get it parked elsewhere.
There is a possibility that your hydraulic pump is worn badly and not putting out the oil flow needed to obtain the speed you are looking for. You would need help from someone who understands hydraulic systems and how to test them to figure out the condition of the pump.
Well.. thanks for the multiple suggestions. Since I bought the machine at the end of last year I will be changing all oils this year instead of just the engine oil when I bought it. BYW, I put 10/30 full synthetic in last year, no smoke, no leaks, around 115 psi on a compression test which I suspect would be fairly normal for a 70's something tractor w/original engine. I would really be surprised if it was rebuilt along the way.
While it almost certainly wasn't taken care of the way I'd have liked, I'm growing attached to it especially since I bought a few cans of Chevy red/orange and started touching it up a bit. I especially like the shape of the front end and the narrowing stripes toward the front end. And what Case ( around these years from what I've seen ) wouldn't have the burned off stripes around the air cleaner. I plan to remedy that if I repaint the hood this year.
Back to the speed/etc, I should mention that it pulled a 3 ft by 4 ft trailer loaded with mostly oak logs stacked about 3 ft high which I'd guess weighed around 600 plus or minus lbs. And it pulled in high range up a 9 to 10 degree grade for about 60 ft before it levels off. My Bolens always slowed down and I'd have to shift down, lost the speed and ended up spinning. The Case just motors up in high range without even laboring that much. Anyway, high range works terrific while it barely moves in low range, quite the opposite of what I would think. I did bend the lever you speak about ( hi/low/neutral
reverse ) so that I wouldn't continually knock it in reverse or neutral while steering it. I shuddered everytime I'd accidentally knock it in reverse.
Tom Arnold
Well-known Member
You need to stop using synthetic oil in that engine unless you can find some straight 30 weight. Kohler allows a multi-grade to be used in sub-freezing temps but wants owners to use 30W whenever the temps are above the freeze point. Don't confuse your air-cooled/oil cooled/splash-lubed Kohler with a modern pressure-lubed engine that has a filter. If you want that engine to last, then put an hourmeter on the tractor and change the engine oil every 25 hours MAX, without fail.
Synthetic oil will do nothing to change that interval.
The correct paint is called Power Red and local Case/IH dealers are supposed to carry it in gallons, quarts and rattle cans. The paint is the only reason to go to a Case/IH dealer. All other items come through bona fide Ingersoll dealers. Chevy Orange isn't a true match. New decals can be bought. I have a source if you're interested.
If your hood decal is a solid stripe, then the tractor is a 1977. If the stripe is broken, then it's a 1978 to 1981. If you give me the serial number, I'll give you the year.
I would be really surprised if the engine had not been rebuilt at some point unless this tractor saw very little work in the past thirty-years. Since you should be removing the head to decarbonize, a careful examination of the piston top should reveal whether it is standard or oversize.
I suggest that you take yourself to Kohler.com, find the classic engines and the K models. You can download the service manual and the owner's manual for free. Lot's of good information to be found in those.
I am providing you with a link to the Ingersoll home page for two reasons. One, you can use the dealer finder to see if there is one close to you. If not, I can provide you with a great one who will do business by mail and e-mail.
If you click on the Illustrated Parts List you can scroll down and find the 220 tractors. Use your serial number to choose the parts PDF that is correct for your tractor. Either print it out or download it to your drive. It's also free.
Ingersoll
Synthetic oil will do nothing to change that interval.
The correct paint is called Power Red and local Case/IH dealers are supposed to carry it in gallons, quarts and rattle cans. The paint is the only reason to go to a Case/IH dealer. All other items come through bona fide Ingersoll dealers. Chevy Orange isn't a true match. New decals can be bought. I have a source if you're interested.
If your hood decal is a solid stripe, then the tractor is a 1977. If the stripe is broken, then it's a 1978 to 1981. If you give me the serial number, I'll give you the year.
I would be really surprised if the engine had not been rebuilt at some point unless this tractor saw very little work in the past thirty-years. Since you should be removing the head to decarbonize, a careful examination of the piston top should reveal whether it is standard or oversize.
I suggest that you take yourself to Kohler.com, find the classic engines and the K models. You can download the service manual and the owner's manual for free. Lot's of good information to be found in those.
I am providing you with a link to the Ingersoll home page for two reasons. One, you can use the dealer finder to see if there is one close to you. If not, I can provide you with a great one who will do business by mail and e-mail.
If you click on the Illustrated Parts List you can scroll down and find the 220 tractors. Use your serial number to choose the parts PDF that is correct for your tractor. Either print it out or download it to your drive. It's also free.
Ingersoll
I haven’t changed a one yet, but have been told that you can change the pump to one rated at more volume of output and it will increase the speed. I don’t want to start a fight with the oil gods, but I have used multi grade synthetic oil for years with no problems. And we go way more the 25 hrs per change. That would be changing two or three time per week. I have even used synthetic in the hydro. Both Case and Cadet. Our tractor cut grass in the summer and run for hours in temp well over 100 degrees and perform well. They stay cooler with synthetics.
Tom Arnold
Well-known Member
Tiger is correct on the issue of installing a larger pump to increase the travel speed. However, doing so comes at a price that is beyond just the cost of the new pump. The 10 horse Kohler in the 220 is using every ounce of its power to spin the existing OEM pump.
In a given year, the same pump was used in the 12, 14, 16 and 18 hp tractors that was used in the 10 hp 220. The larger hp tractors have the luxury of extra ponies to spin a bigger pump but the 10 horse will come up short under certain conditions.
As for the synthetic/dino oil debate, I'll add the following.
Using synthetic oils in Colt, Case and Ingersoll tractors is not harmful IF....you stick to the recommended service intervals that have been clearly stated in every Operator's Manual published by Case and Ingersoll since 1965. Synthetic oil is a great lubricant.
Where I part company with the use of synthetic is on two issues.
1. I am a frugal (cheap) person. Don't blame me. My parents taught me from an early age to not waste money because they were a product of the Great Depression and certainly knew the value of a dollar. Shell's Rotella T oil can be bought in 5 gallon pails for less than $2.50 per quart.
Can you buy any synthetic for that kind of money?
If so, then by all means go with the synthetic but if not, then why would you want to drain out a more expensive oil at the correct interval if the less expensive oil does the job just fine? To me, that's just tossing money down the toilet but since it won't be my money getting flushed, the rest of you are free to toss away. Kohler states that oil consumption will increase if you use multi-grade oils in temps above freezing.
The oil pans in the Case Kohlers are small to begin with. Oil level is crucial. So why not use a straight grade oil that won't get sucked into the combustion chamber as easily as a multi-grade will? Or is common sense now a thing of the past?
2. Tiger summed up the second reason without even realizing it. Because he was using synthetic, he apparently felt comfortable in extending the oil change period. WHY? Because the manufacturer's of synthetics say you can.
But they are talking about pressure-lubed engines that have oil filters, not splash-lubed engines with no filtration at all. Whether you use Rotella T dino or Mobil 1 synthetic, both oils have detergents in them that keep soot and tiny metal particles in suspension within the oil.
An oil filter will remove those particles and trap them in the filter media, thus preventing them from doing further damage to the crucial parts of the engine, such as the cylinder wall/rings and the crankshaft bearings. The only way to rid a splash-lubed engine of these harmful particles is to drop the oil out when the manufacturer of the engine tells you to.
Call me crazy but I have a greater tendency to put my faith in a company such as Kohler who has spent millions of dollars doing research and development on engines, oils and metalurgy over the past sixty plus years, than in the advertising of Amsoil or Mobil 1 that is directed to people using pressure lubricated engines that have oil filters.
The problem with people like Tiger is that they never conduct any actual tests that can prove that they are right when they come out with such statements. They run their machines with no hour meters on them, keep no maintenance logs, do not send out oil samples for periodic testing and conduct no double-blind comparisons. They never send out their engines to a competent authority than can measure how much wear has taken place either.
That's about as accurate as pissing in a pitch-black washroom in the hopes of hitting the toilet.
The same holds true with the hydraulic system because it has no filtration either. This is why Case and Ingersoll both told the owners to change the hydraulic oil EVERY 500 HOURS OR ANNUALLY.. The 500 hour recommendation was put there for the commercial user who can easily rack up 500 hours of usage when cutting grass 8 hours per day, 5 days a week.
When it comes to hydraulic systems, cleanliness is PARAMOUNT if you want the components to live a long and happy life. Anyone who is a PRO in hydraulics will tell you that as well as any book ever written on the subject of hydraulics.
So, I agree with Tiger that using synthetic in the hydraulic system does have some benefits for a commercial user but if that commercial user fails to change the oil every 500 hours then all he's doing is circulating contaminated oil through his system and accelerating the wear of the pump/s and motor/s which are the two most expensive items. How stupid is that?
In a given year, the same pump was used in the 12, 14, 16 and 18 hp tractors that was used in the 10 hp 220. The larger hp tractors have the luxury of extra ponies to spin a bigger pump but the 10 horse will come up short under certain conditions.
As for the synthetic/dino oil debate, I'll add the following.
Using synthetic oils in Colt, Case and Ingersoll tractors is not harmful IF....you stick to the recommended service intervals that have been clearly stated in every Operator's Manual published by Case and Ingersoll since 1965. Synthetic oil is a great lubricant.
Where I part company with the use of synthetic is on two issues.
1. I am a frugal (cheap) person. Don't blame me. My parents taught me from an early age to not waste money because they were a product of the Great Depression and certainly knew the value of a dollar. Shell's Rotella T oil can be bought in 5 gallon pails for less than $2.50 per quart.
Can you buy any synthetic for that kind of money?
If so, then by all means go with the synthetic but if not, then why would you want to drain out a more expensive oil at the correct interval if the less expensive oil does the job just fine? To me, that's just tossing money down the toilet but since it won't be my money getting flushed, the rest of you are free to toss away. Kohler states that oil consumption will increase if you use multi-grade oils in temps above freezing.
The oil pans in the Case Kohlers are small to begin with. Oil level is crucial. So why not use a straight grade oil that won't get sucked into the combustion chamber as easily as a multi-grade will? Or is common sense now a thing of the past?
2. Tiger summed up the second reason without even realizing it. Because he was using synthetic, he apparently felt comfortable in extending the oil change period. WHY? Because the manufacturer's of synthetics say you can.
But they are talking about pressure-lubed engines that have oil filters, not splash-lubed engines with no filtration at all. Whether you use Rotella T dino or Mobil 1 synthetic, both oils have detergents in them that keep soot and tiny metal particles in suspension within the oil.
An oil filter will remove those particles and trap them in the filter media, thus preventing them from doing further damage to the crucial parts of the engine, such as the cylinder wall/rings and the crankshaft bearings. The only way to rid a splash-lubed engine of these harmful particles is to drop the oil out when the manufacturer of the engine tells you to.
Call me crazy but I have a greater tendency to put my faith in a company such as Kohler who has spent millions of dollars doing research and development on engines, oils and metalurgy over the past sixty plus years, than in the advertising of Amsoil or Mobil 1 that is directed to people using pressure lubricated engines that have oil filters.
The problem with people like Tiger is that they never conduct any actual tests that can prove that they are right when they come out with such statements. They run their machines with no hour meters on them, keep no maintenance logs, do not send out oil samples for periodic testing and conduct no double-blind comparisons. They never send out their engines to a competent authority than can measure how much wear has taken place either.
That's about as accurate as pissing in a pitch-black washroom in the hopes of hitting the toilet.
The same holds true with the hydraulic system because it has no filtration either. This is why Case and Ingersoll both told the owners to change the hydraulic oil EVERY 500 HOURS OR ANNUALLY.. The 500 hour recommendation was put there for the commercial user who can easily rack up 500 hours of usage when cutting grass 8 hours per day, 5 days a week.
When it comes to hydraulic systems, cleanliness is PARAMOUNT if you want the components to live a long and happy life. Anyone who is a PRO in hydraulics will tell you that as well as any book ever written on the subject of hydraulics.
So, I agree with Tiger that using synthetic in the hydraulic system does have some benefits for a commercial user but if that commercial user fails to change the oil every 500 hours then all he's doing is circulating contaminated oil through his system and accelerating the wear of the pump/s and motor/s which are the two most expensive items. How stupid is that?
I knew better then to post on this with all the self appointed “OIL GODS” out there. But I started this so here goes. Mr Arnold, You don’t know me, yet you state I haven’t done the research as to cost. And we didn’t use proof meters. Oh! Really! How do you know? Being as smart as you are, I sure you have heard of having the oil analyzed. But I’m sure you will say that was too costly and we didn’t do that either. Oh! Well. Opinions are like butt holes, we all have one and they all stink. Now here is my opinion, your opinion is from reading something from forty years ago. You would be very surprised at where I worked for 34 years. No it wasn’t an oil company. We kept more records and had to give more reports, monthly to our controlling board as to cost then you can imagine. Synthetics were costly years ago, but in the last ten years are always a clear money saver. We even used digital laser thermometers to record the temps. It is more important to keep temps low in a splash system. You should know how heat destroys an engine or a hydro. Oil has changed so much over the years. Multi grade oil isn’t made the same either. I am no expert, but the chemical that makes it multi is no longer the damaging chemical it was just five years ago. Let alone forty and fifty years ago. I’m sure the engine manufacturers would have a whole different recommendation, if they knew about today’s oils back in 65. One last thing and I’ll get off, most likely for good this time. An old K301 series Kohler, logging just 10 hours a day on it’s proof meter, will have an oil change ever third day. What is the labor cost for that? Who would do it? I also disagree with you on the 10hp pulling a larger pump. I haven’t changed one yet so can’t say what would happen. The original question was to increase the speed not the power. And we have plenty of power to move the tractor. It’s the deck or what ever else the tractor is pulling that robs the 10 hp of it’s power. The pump isn’t hard to pull until you add the load by making the tractor move, and load should be all most the same, just more speed under normal load. Ok, I’m punching out and most likely will quit this group again so I don’t get angry with all the self appointed GODS out there. Most of my old Kohler now are in show tractor now, they my only log 20 hrs per year, but I for one are going to use the best oil I can buy. Save money somewhere else. Have a nice day.
I need to clarify something. When I said the tractor did'nt move in low range I meant it barely, if at all moved in the slow range of the high speed trans. Tractor moves fine in the high speed of the high range of the trans. The tractor moves ok in low range of the low speed trans. Heck of a lot of words to say little.
I would love to see more ponies in this but if they spin at the same rpm range I can't see how it would increase the speed. I notice the larger 444 and 446 have ground engaging accessories. Anything for the 220's ? I'm guessing one would have to hook up their own hydraulics ?
I would love to see more ponies in this but if they spin at the same rpm range I can't see how it would increase the speed. I notice the larger 444 and 446 have ground engaging accessories. Anything for the 220's ? I'm guessing one would have to hook up their own hydraulics ?
Tom Arnold
Well-known Member
The 200 series and 400 series tractors were built with almost identical parts. The difference between the two series is that the 200 is known as the Lo Profile model whereas the 400's are known as the High Clearance models.
As such, the parts differences relate to making the 400 models sit higher off the ground than the 200's. The trans-axle used in both models is identical except for two things. The 200's have a 5 bolt hole axle shaft and the 400's have a 6 bolt hole axle shaft. The other difference is the drive motor.
The motor in the 200 spins faster so that the smaller diameter wheels will have the same ground speed as the larger ones on the 400 models. The front axle and wheel spindles are different also to deal with the ground clearance issue. And because of the difference in rear wheel size, the fenders are different. That is essentially it.
As for ground-engaging, both series can be fitted with a sleeve hitch and will accept all the aftermarket sleeve hitch attachments such as turning plows, discs, harrows, cultivators, rototiller, planters and so forth.
Thanks to a redesign in the 3 point hitch by Ingersoll, the HH-34 will work on both series and of course, the optional hydraulic PTO can be added to power the tiller, the log splitter, Hydra-Vac/Bagger, chipper/shredder, finishing mower or Bush Hog.
The hydraulic system is capable of delivering somewhere between 12 and 14 hp to hydraulic attachments. Engine hp larger than 14 does not have much of an effect on the hydraulic attachments but it comes in handy for the 4 belt driven attachments.
Used rear PTO kits show up on e-Bay all the time. Used HH-34 hitches show up rarely but used sleeve hitches are fairly common.
As for your speed complaint, Hi Range is considered to be a "travel gear" to move the tractor from location to location. It was never intended to be used as a "work gear". That's what Low Range is for.
When you first move the travel lever, only a very small amount of oil gets sent to the drive motor no matter which range you are in. Because of the lower gearing of "Lo Range", the tractor will respond better than when you have the trans-axle in "High Range". It's no different than a car with a 3 or 4 speed manual transmission.
Letting the clutch out in 1st gear is quite different than doing so in 2nd or 3rd gear. So, in other words.... you are asking too much from this tractor. You either plow at full speed in Low Range or you plow at a mid-speed in High Range. Trying to plow at a slow-speed in High Range isn't going to happen.
As such, the parts differences relate to making the 400 models sit higher off the ground than the 200's. The trans-axle used in both models is identical except for two things. The 200's have a 5 bolt hole axle shaft and the 400's have a 6 bolt hole axle shaft. The other difference is the drive motor.
The motor in the 200 spins faster so that the smaller diameter wheels will have the same ground speed as the larger ones on the 400 models. The front axle and wheel spindles are different also to deal with the ground clearance issue. And because of the difference in rear wheel size, the fenders are different. That is essentially it.
As for ground-engaging, both series can be fitted with a sleeve hitch and will accept all the aftermarket sleeve hitch attachments such as turning plows, discs, harrows, cultivators, rototiller, planters and so forth.
Thanks to a redesign in the 3 point hitch by Ingersoll, the HH-34 will work on both series and of course, the optional hydraulic PTO can be added to power the tiller, the log splitter, Hydra-Vac/Bagger, chipper/shredder, finishing mower or Bush Hog.
The hydraulic system is capable of delivering somewhere between 12 and 14 hp to hydraulic attachments. Engine hp larger than 14 does not have much of an effect on the hydraulic attachments but it comes in handy for the 4 belt driven attachments.
Used rear PTO kits show up on e-Bay all the time. Used HH-34 hitches show up rarely but used sleeve hitches are fairly common.
As for your speed complaint, Hi Range is considered to be a "travel gear" to move the tractor from location to location. It was never intended to be used as a "work gear". That's what Low Range is for.
When you first move the travel lever, only a very small amount of oil gets sent to the drive motor no matter which range you are in. Because of the lower gearing of "Lo Range", the tractor will respond better than when you have the trans-axle in "High Range". It's no different than a car with a 3 or 4 speed manual transmission.
Letting the clutch out in 1st gear is quite different than doing so in 2nd or 3rd gear. So, in other words.... you are asking too much from this tractor. You either plow at full speed in Low Range or you plow at a mid-speed in High Range. Trying to plow at a slow-speed in High Range isn't going to happen.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
You obviously have a thing for Case garden tractors.
I enjoyed your comments on synthetic oils and I agree.
Keep up the good comments.
I enjoyed your comments on synthetic oils and I agree.
Keep up the good comments.
CaseNutty 1660
Member
all I want to say is that the faster you move snow the more horsepower it takes, not trying to start a fight and just my thoughts Tom
Since this was going to be a backup to my D-180 Wheel horse I may go for a tractor snowthrower instead. ( if I can find one reasonable ) I have a 22 hp Sears thats is really good shape and I've seen the U tube videos of the Beromac snowthrower and its very impressive. I'm sure the price will be as well. I've had my driveway done with compacted crushed stone and I can envision the plow screwing it up even with the skids on. A blower Might be a better choice.
Nate
Nate
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