Case 311b split

[Joe (Wa)]

The foot clutch rod end may have broken off or pulled through a worn out or rusted out socket. The yoke (fork) pivot can break loose also.

Aside from the rust the tractor is not supported well enough. You're taking a change on bending the drive shaft and end up scraping the tractor. The two parts you are splitting are very heavy, they need to be come apart supported and go back together straight.

You should push it back together and move it to concrete or other solid surface. If the engine crank hasn't been turned the hyd pump shaft splines will side right back into the pressure plate hub splines, otherwise you will need to turn the crank until they mate. Pulling together with the fasteners is ok if you are sure the splines are meshing but do not force it.

When on a solid surface, crib the torque tube and roll the engine part away. Floor jack is adequate but a shop crane is better on the engine end. That isn't going to solve a rust problem but make it a lot easier to get apart/together and w/o damage.

This is the way I do it. Hydraulic table under the torque tube and shop crane on the engine. Floor jacks are an adequate substitute for both, just less flexibility and more time consuming.

 

[ESFdad]

Well I ended up buying 5/8's threaded rod and some nuts and made jack screws on both sides to seperate the two halves and it worked

I/8th at a time

It finally came apart a couple hours later

So obviously ill be in the market for the pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing and the yoke for the throw out bearing

 

[ESFdad]

I agree that they are heavy and can be crooked, but where I'm at I don't have a cement slab and have to make due with what I have.
It came and everything came out evenly and no falling or uneven-ness once it actually did seperate

In most cases I try and make my environment as user friendly as possible

 

[Joe (Wa)]

That's really great. I saw one of those engine block ears cracked and re-welded a few years ago. I assumed it was from using a port a power for splitting. Anyway you went slow and did a yeoman job, buy a lottery ticket. It tore the hubs out of both the friction disc and pressure plate so now you can get the penetrant to the splines if needed.

Was the clutch rod end broke off, pulled through the socket, or fork adrift?

On the Hyd pump shaft, the TO bearing spring should be replaced, check the snap ring also. I would replace the shaft seals & gaskets on the pump/tach drive unit also while tractor is split, but at a minimum recommend replacing the cover shaft seal, you need to drain down the torque tube to do that.

Up front check the engine rear main seal for leakage, mice may have chewed on the rubber and it may have been damaged by the urine, I haven't had much experience with that, at least, not even close to that extent.

Do you have a parts manual, if not I will post a link to one on-line. P/n's for the same or suitable substitute part may have changed over the years, I can cross-ref some of them, updating only to the early 1990's.

BZ, Bravo Zulu, good job damn well done.

 

[ESFdad]

(quoted from post at 22:50:59 07/18/23) That's really great. I saw one of those engine block ears cracked and re-welded a few years ago. I assumed it was from using a port a power for splitting. Anyway you went slow and did a yeoman job, buy a lottery ticket. It tore the hubs out of both the friction disc and pressure plate so now you can get the penetrant to the splines if needed.

Was the clutch rod end broke off, pulled through the socket, or fork adrift?

On the Hyd pump shaft, the TO bearing spring should be replaced, check the snap ring also. I would replace the shaft seals & gaskets on the pump/tach drive unit also while tractor is split, but at a minimum recommend replacing the cover shaft seal, you need to drain down the torque tube to do that.

Up front check the engine rear main seal for leakage, mice may have chewed on the rubber and it may have been damaged by the urine, I haven't had much experience with that, at least, not even close to that extent.

Do you have a parts manual, if not I will post a link to one on-line. P/n's for the same or suitable substitute part may have changed over the years, I can cross-ref some of them, updating only to the early 1990's.

BZ, Bravo Zulu, good job damn well done.

Thank you sir! I do have the parts and shop manual, but it's all the original part numbers a link a cross referances would be greatly appreciated.
I'm finding it difficult to locate parts since only 2500 of these model tractors were made.

I plan on going through it well enough so I don't have to split it again for a long time

This post was edited by ESFdad on 07/18/2023 at 08:07 pm.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

This site sells parts, go to the top of the page and click on CASE. For the most part they are ok, some parts are more spendy than can be had elsewhere. Avoid parts that don't match the part nr in your manual or an updated part nr.

John Saeli (315) 585-9826, long time poster, very experienced, probably has done the same repair as you're working on, he can often provide advice as well as the parts. Has a web site (goggle) many parts that are not listed, phone is best. Prices are very competitive. There are other good on-line vendors, just describe the part or p/n and I or someone else here may know where to find it.

The 300 & 300B series tractors share most of the same parts When searching for a part use both the original Case part nr and also any substitute nr as vendors can list either nr. Use 300 and 300B when searching for parts b/c 311B is just one model in the 300B series, you can refine it to 311B later but it will likely fit all the tractors in that series unless specific to 311B and will be stated as you can see in your Case parts manual. Case seals and ball bearings can usually be cross-ref to modern brand substitutes. Modern seals are invariably narrower than older seals but are better and work just as well. You will have to make many of your own gaskets. You can buy bulk gasket material from places like auto stores or on-line. Almost all gaskets, except specialties like exhaust, head gaskets, use 1/32 oil/water gasket material is satisfactory.

If you have the original Case parts manual A377 and service manual 9-92002 this we can just ref the page rather than posting a lot of pics.

The 1st link is the official CaseIH parts site. It will have both the original and substitute p/n, as well as, the availability of the part via CaseHI.

That doesn't mean the same part is not available aftermarket. Substitute parts sometimes are not always identically the same as original but fits and serves the same function.

The 2nd link is the original Case parts manual A377. Despite the irritating pop ups, I think it is faster and easier to use. It will have the original p/n and most of the substitute p/n.
https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih epc::model_find

https://spare.avspart.com/catalog/case/48962/

 

[ESFdad]

(quoted from post at 13:27:37 07/19/23) This site sells parts, go to the top of the page and click on CASE. For the most part they are ok, some parts are more spendy than can be had elsewhere. Avoid parts that don't match the part nr in your manual or an updated part nr.

John Saeli (315) 585-9826, long time poster, very experienced, probably has done the same repair as you're working on, he can often provide advice as well as the parts. Has a web site (goggle) many parts that are not listed, phone is best. Prices are very competitive. There are other good on-line vendors, just describe the part or p/n and I or someone else here may know where to find it.

The 300 & 300B series tractors share most of the same parts When searching for a part use both the original Case part nr and also any substitute nr as vendors can list either nr. Use 300 and 300B when searching for parts b/c 311B is just one model in the 300B series, you can refine it to 311B later but it will likely fit all the tractors in that series unless specific to 311B and will be stated as you can see in your Case parts manual. Case seals and ball bearings can usually be cross-ref to modern brand substitutes. Modern seals are invariably narrower than older seals but are better and work just as well. You will have to make many of your own gaskets. You can buy bulk gasket material from places like auto stores or on-line. Almost all gaskets, except specialties like exhaust, head gaskets, use 1/32 oil/water gasket material is satisfactory.

If you have the original Case parts manual A377 and service manual 9-92002 this we can just ref the page rather than posting a lot of pics.

The 1st link is the official CaseIH parts site. It will have both the original and substitute p/n, as well as, the availability of the part via CaseHI.

That doesn't mean the same part is not available aftermarket. Substitute parts sometimes are not always identically the same as original but fits and serves the same function.

The 2nd link is the original Case parts manual A377. Despite the irritating pop ups, I think it is faster and easier to use. It will have the original p/n and most of the substitute p/n.
https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih epc::model_find

https://spare.avspart.com/catalog/case/48962/

Thanks for all your help Joe I really appreciate it

So I went out and was able to remove the pressure plate and old clutch disc
My next question would be how in the world do I get off a seized disc spline and throw out bearing without having to use heat?

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Can you get a puller on it for a moderate strain and soak with something like PB Blaster? A 3 leg puller would be best or maybe have to use a bearing puller to get a good grip. Maybe rent one?

 

[ESFdad]

I was able to purchase all the parts I need to get the tractor pieced back together, and I'll be trying to use the puller to get the seized parts off the splines

Does anyone know where I can purchase a alignment tool? I can't seem to locate one with the .625 pilot diameter