Case 411 Purchased 10/23/022

Hello,

This is my first post on YesterdaysTractors.com ever, because I just purchased my 1st tractor ever.
I have a Case 411, Serial Number is 8082162 it appears to be in pretty good shape. Starts and runs fine. Has bucket (the main reason I purchased it)
What I need for this tractor to start with is Fenders. There is nothing between the drive and rear wheels.
That makes me pretty nervous. PLEASE correct me if I am wrong.... To me the fenders I need look like half of a clam shell, they do NOT go over the top of the tire. Is that correct?

I also need tips and guidance of any kind would be greatly appreciated.
I am looking for Manuals for this tractor as well

cvphoto138973.jpg

Serial Number List for Case: Model 400
 
Many times that style of loader necessitated the removal of the fenders, to make space for loader mounts. I have operated older loader tractors with no fenders, and while doing loader work, it never really bothered me, as it was always done at low speed.
 
Steve A. W.

Thank you for that advise. Ironically enough back in 1976 my uncle was killed for just that reason.
But he also had the bucket on a narrow front tractor, which I have been told, was a huge contributing factor.
 
Hopefully this picture will be good enough for you to answer this question (if you are willing to).
Can I get fenders on this tractor? I don't mind doing some modification.
cvphoto138974.jpg
 
There is no law saying you have to have a specific kind of fender on the tractor. From what I've seen on google though, the stock fenders are clamshell shaped.

"Tips and guidance" would fill a book. We don't know your level of experience anyway, so we would not know where to start. Keep it slow until you get some experience and if you have questions, ask. Get a manual if you don't have one, and read it cover to cover at least once. Don't quibble over a $40 manual after how many hundreds or thousands of dollars you've already spent on the tractor.
 
Welcome Joey!

You are on the right path looking for manuals. They can be bought here on this site, Ebay is a good source for used ones. A real, original, in hand manual is much better than a download or a copy of a copy, shop carefully!

I agree, the fenders were removed because of the loader. I assume you asked the seller if he had them.
But whatever you can find will need to be modified to fit, so no real advantage in locating factory originals.
 
That is good advise to spend a little more on the manual

I will definitely go slow

As far as experience, I worked on farms in High school and through college.
then took the next 30 years off. So I consider myself 1/2 step above novice.
 
It appears that the loader mounts to the axle where the fender brackets would be mounted. You will have to make a fender bracket that attaches to the loader uprights to mount fenders or bolt the fenders directly to the uprights. The fenders will be spaced wider than the standard setup but as long as the wheels are spaced wide enough for clearance it will work. Warning - tire chains and fenders are mortal enemies if the chains are not kept snug. Be sure there is no loose chain to swing and catch the fender.
 
Yes you assume correctly I did ask the owner he did not have them

Also, can I put an Eagle Hitch on this tractor? To me it looks like it can be done.
I am VERY mechanically inclined, so I am not afraid of doing the work myself.
I am not sure if all 411's will accept the Eagle hitch. Do you know by any chance?
 
Thanks for that information.

Especially about tire changes and fenders, -- I would not never thought of that

I will get fender and modify the way they mount, thanks for your tips on that.
 
There's a lot more complexity than narrow front vs wide front.
Stability is a matter of keeping the center of gravity low enough overall.
A wide front is mounted on a pivot, so tipping could start there.
Weight on the rear wheels and keeping the rear wheel spacing wide help a lot.
The advice not to drive the tractor with the loader up high stands, though.
 
You have an excellent tractor there. One of the toughest and most reliable ever built. The original genders were clam shell, but most of those were rushed out due to the design. There is a guy that makes a patch plate to fix them, so if you find a pair not too bad they can be repaired. But those I wil be hard to mount anyway with the loader. The later model comfort King fenders are easy to make fit and go over the top of the tires for a better fender and would be easier to adapt. Also the Oliver fenders from the 50 series and the Allis from the 180/185 series work food as alternatives.

As to the eagle hitch, if you have the Rock shaft housing it's easy to put one on as all the parts are external. If you don't have the Roch shaft housing you would need that too.
 
That is the pivot on top of the rear housing that the lift pivots on. All 3 point systems have one. There will be a shaft through the upper housing that 2 arms go back from. On this system the lift cylinder hooks to one of those arms. On the rear of those arms are the lift links that drop down to the eagle hitch arms. The eagle hitch arms hook to the side of the draw bar Frame beside the lower housing.

cvphoto138994.jpg


You can see how everything works in this pic.
 
I just found this picture.

My guess, by looking at this picture, is that I do not have the Rock Shaft Housing.
Can you tell by looking at this picture? If so, do I have the needed Rock Shaft housing

Can they be purchased and installed on all 411's
cvphoto138997.jpg
 
One of my first tractors was a 400. I had it for 25 years. Have fun with it. Advise = If it does not start. check the fuel tank before anything else. Bill
 
You will need a donor tractor for the parts anyway. Yours does not have that, but it just bolts on where the seat support bolts and replaces that piece. The easiest way to get what you need would be to find a junk tractor with it and swap everything. It's not hard on those and finding one should be fairly easy. Where do you live? That info would help with finding what you need.
 
Welcome to YT. Great choice for a tractor! A couple of guys you should get to know for parts are John Saeli at external_link 315-585-9826 and Don Livingston at Rusty Acre 507-433-0073 I have purchased many parts from both, and highly reccomend them. Both are an excellent source of parts and information, as many of us Case guys would agree. And they both visit the Case/David Brown forum below, as that would be the best place to post tebhnical questions about your tractor for people with the most knowledge to help. Be safe and enjoy your new tractor.
 
One thing I thought of that you might find useful to know about your tractor.

It is a "variant" of the Case 400 line of tractors. Back in the day companies like Ford and Case gave each individual variant of a basic tractor a different model name. The transmission is basically the same for all variants, with the changes being in the engine (gas or diesel), and wheel/axle configurations.

That leads to a good amount of parts compatibility between models. An eagle hitch setup off any other 400 variant should fit your 411.

I personally don't see the tractors often referred to by their variant numbers, but by the base tractor number. So someone might be advertising a gas row crop tractor for sale as a Case 400.

This is what I found:
400 diesel standard
401 diesel row-crop
402 diesel vineyard
403 diesel high-crop
405 diesel orchard
410 gasoline standard
411 gas row-crop
413 gas high-crop
420 diesel industrial
 
Just to add to what Barnyard said, it is
also referred to as a Racine 400 Case. Not
to be confused with the Rock Island 400
Case, a different machine than yours.
 
Thanks for that advise

so far it fires up a split second after I push the button.
it sounds pretty dog-gone-good I am happy to report
 
WOW that is seriously helpful.

I am pretty self-conscience because I am such a bigger. That advise will save me a lot of time looking and digging for people and part sources.
 
Thanks to you and everyone out there.

I am definitely getting that feeling.

I have learned more in the last 3 hours then I would have ever imagined I would


I would have never guessed I would receive so many replies so quickly
 
Where are you from JPC? I have a 730 parts tractor. You can have the fenders. They are not great, but better than what you have now. I am in eastern WI. Bill
 
I am about an hour west of Chicago

I am happy to drive for parts.

I purchased this tractor in St. Paul, MN
it took me 6 hours to get there and 12 to get home. Trailer I had the tractor on was a little too small

See the attached photo for a good laugh. In my defense I drove very carefully, and all went well.
cvphoto139008.jpg
 
I have another question for anyone out there

some times I see Case 400 and sometimes I see IH 400
I am assuming they are different tractors is that correct?
 
LOL

It felt like a 100,000 pound tractor at times

I put 26 - 50 pound bags of water softener salt on the front of the trailer and some in the bucket of the tractor and it still swayed at 50 mph.

My drive home consisted of
12 - hours
45 - mph
hazards flashing the whole time
lots of prayers

BUT I REALLY WANTED THAT TRACTOR!!!
 
(quoted from post at 11:00:50 10/25/22) I have another question for anyone out there

some times I see Case 400 and sometimes I see IH 400
I am assuming they are different tractors is that correct?

Yes, totally different.

Case and IH did not merge until 1985. Even today, though, there really are no true "CaseIH" designed-from-the-ground-up.
 
Thanks for telling me that

I am feeling better and better about this tractor

So far NO ONE has said anything against the tractor.
 
I am not sure how to start a new topic so I am just adding a reply

I am in need of tires:

The Front ones no longer hold air. But they are relatively cheap so I am not too worried about them.
I have been told that I should buy new tires AND NEW INNERTUBES at the same time. Is that correct?

The rear tires are much different. Although they hold air, they are almost worn flat (that's probably why tire chains were being used)
I emptied the fluid out of them to make the drive home a little easier. But I want to replace the fluid and someday buy new rear tires (after I win the lottery) Do the rear tires need innertubes as well?

Is there ANYWHERE on the planet that I can get rear tires cheap? Right now I am looking at right around $2,400 or so for just the rears. ouch!@!
 
Lol, there is no piece of machinery that has no negative aspects. Lol. The 400 does have a few, starting with the steering. Of yours has no power steering it will be just like any other with no power steering, and better than most. The case power steering of that vintage is power assist, so it's a bit less than some other brands. Keep the belts tight and the oil full and filter clean and it's adequate. Once you get used to it it's OK. And the single stick shifter can be hard to use if it's worn. Again, once your used to it it's OK. There is an easy cure for that tho, just swap out a transmission cover and shift forks from a 2 stick 7/830 and that problem is solved.
 
Look in the lower right corner of his post, it will say e-mail, click that and you can send him a message. You can put yours there as well so the rest can send you messages. And come on down to the case forum, we are a great group there and you will get all the answers available for all things case.
 
You are right the steering is a bit tricky

You are right about the gear select as well, it is sloppy as can be. And to add insult to injury it doesn't have a shift knob.

I will be replacing the belts and some hoses as well. Thanks for the feed back
 

First bit of advice I would give is to switch to "modern view" on this website. Look in the upper right hand corner.

It looks like a nice lil unit, I am glad you made it home safe...

I know practically nothing about Case tractors so I will not be much help about it specifically. As far as general advice with a loader tractor, do not use it beyond its capabilities. It sounds obvious, but I assure you it is not. If what you are doing feels dangerous, it likely is. As with most people, the more you use it, the more competent and confident you will get. BUT do not get overconfident. Most farm accidents happen when one gets too much in a hurry, and has too much faith in ones skill.

These rear dismount tractors are what make PTOs dangerous. An untied shoelace and a running PTO while getting on or off could be fatal. Sure, you can get by with it 1000 times, but that 1001st time is gonna HURT.

Concerning the tires - You have not really told us what you are planning on doing with the tractor. If just for puttering around and they hold air, use them as they are. From the pics, they do not look bad at all. Chains are likely on it because he used it for snow removal only. Take em off until you need them. You should focus on making sure the tractor itself is good before you splash out $2K for rubber (though I admit mismatched tires would drive me CRAZY). You definitely should get fluid back into the rears NOW. No weight on the back of a loader tractor greatly increases chances of rollover.

Good luck with it. You will have a lot of fun with an old tractor. Do you know what is better than ONE old tractor?
 
Jon F MN,

Thank you for the help.

I absolutely believe that this a great group of people, the kindness extended to me already has taken me by storm
 
RockyRidgeFarm,

I have to believe the answer is two (2) old tractors

The tires really are in worse shape then they appear in the pictures.

Yes you are 100% correct regarding the use of this tractor, and the chains, all the guy did with the tractor was move snow.
 
Hello Joey welcome to YT! Case New Holland Industrial which is I believe part of Fiat current owns the J.I. Case name. Here is a link to what I hope are the correct online parts diagrams for your tractor. Just keep in mind that many parts are no longer available from the manufacturer. However, when looking for a part using the part number is usually very helpful because many tractor salvage yards sell the parts by the original numbers. Enjoy!
CNHI J.I. Case 400 online parts diagrams
 
in the case forum i posted my new to me racine 400 like yours but narrow front. not a bad looking tractor you got there either considering its over 65 years old and been used
 
Most of those old tractors didn't have fenders on them new. they were either a cost factor or in the way to mount the cultivator so were removed or didn't have them in the first place. Most of those old cultivators were front mount, so they had pieces that run along side the engine to the rear axles. We have 2 tractors without fenders. We took them off on both as they were in the way to get on and off. An H and MD IH's.
 

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