Case 530 Diesel will not start

[Greg Sznajdruk]

My Father in law left me an old Case 530 diesel tractor. I wonder if he did me a favour or was out to get even,

I rarely use it, but the drive way needs to be re-graded. I charged the battery and cranked it for about 20 seconds and it started. It ran for 15 seconds and then quit. Have not been able to restart it since.

I removed the fuel lines to the injectors and have a pulse of fuel out of each. Put back together and still will not start. Shut the main fuel value and drained the fuel. Replaced with fresh fuel and opened the main valve, bleed the system of air, still will not start. Don’t notice any exhaust smoke from the exhaust pipe.

Took off the rocker cover and the valve train is moving.

Is it possible that one or more of the injectors are clogged? If so, how do I ascertain this?

Is it possible that the timing chain (assuming there is a timing chain) could have skipped sufficiently to prevent it from starting?

Any ideas are welcome since I’m at a complete loss as what to do next.

Thanks

Greg Sznajdruk

 

[TripleRange]

Have you made sure nothing is blocking air intake such as animal nests?

 

[Greg Sznajdruk]

No good point will go check.

Greg

 

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Triplerange:

Boy is there alot of crud in the air filter. Have taken the air canister off but don't see how to get the element out. Is this thing cleanable or do you have to replace the whole thing?

Took the air cleaner off to the engine manafold turned the key no change does not fire. Held my hand over the intake manafold and there is vacuum when the engine is cranked.

With the air cleaner off can I assume that there is sufficent air?

Since there appears to be vacuum at the air intake manafold can I assume that there is sufficient compression?

If these assumptions are correct does it take me back to injectors and or timing?

Greg

 

[Anonymous-0]

Good call, Triple Range. That filter needs to be Cleaned .... If it were mine I would Set that dirty filter aside and get it to fireup without filter,... If You try ETHER,and it fires ,then You Know You have a LACK of FUEL problem .. No need in Continuing ether , If You do .,Use SPARINGLY!.. Personally I think You are stopped up in Fuel delivery somewhere !... Thats usually the problem 90% of time .. . open bleeders on fuel filters , Drain water from bottom of tank and filters , there is always Some IN There !,.I Use Compressed Air gun and a CLEAN shop cloth over tank Filler cap To pressureize Tank to force fuel thru to filter bleeders ,, Could be the Tank line is stopped Up with CRUD ,,happens to everyone sooner or Later ,, Remove and Blow Back thru ..when clear fasten to tank and blow thru until She gurgles mightily and spray mist comes from open filler Cap ,, ,If you do not have good fuel travel , you are certain to stall .....

 

[JGarner]

Greg the oil bath air cleaner on the early 30 series tractors was not designed to be able to take the element out. Soak the bottom end of it with the filter element in diesel over night and then blow compressed air through it from the top. This reverses the way it normally flows so you are "back flushing the filter". If you aren't going to put the air cleaner back on for a while after a diesel clean up pour gasoline through it from top to bottom and blow a lot air air through and repeat. Make sure it sits over night or longer so that ALL of the gas has had time to evaporate before installing and running it. The gasoline will dissolve more of the crud than diesel.

 

[JDemaris]

No timing chain and the injectors aren't going to all plug at once.

Considering it DID start and run, and then died - you can assume you've got a fuel-injection problem. If you are sure there is air-free fuel getting to the injection pump, then you can also assume the injection pump is the problem.

Check first to make sure the injection pump is actually still turning. It has a special "shear-shaft" inside that is designed to break in half if the pump is turning too hard. Dirt, water in fuel, etc. can all cause it to break.

Pull the little rectangular timing-window off the side of the injection pump. It's held on by two little screws. Then turn the engine over and look inside that opening. If you see one half of the parts inside rotating, then the pump IS still turning. If nothing is moving, the shaft is broken.

 

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Jdemaris

I hope that I didn't give the impression that I know anything about diesel engines. What I do know could probably be engraved on the head of a pin. I believe that the fuel pump puts out fuel at a considerable pressure. I have backed off the fuel lines from the injectors and cranked the engine. I see a small spurt of fuel coming out of each line. Does this mean that the fuel pump is working? Or should I take off the window on the pump to see if it is turning?

Thanks
Greg

 

[JDemaris]

If you see a little spurt of fuel at each injector when the engine turns, it sounds like the pump is working fine. Each cylinder only gets a couple of drop of fuel on each fire.

Seems you've got me stumped. With a diesel, the injection pump is the bulk of the ignition system and the fuel system. Not much else needed for the engine to run other then compression. And, if it ran and then died, I can think of anything related to compression that's going to quit, all of a sudden.

Does it fire when you squirt ether into the intake?

 

[Anonymous-0]

just thought i better chime in before You did Unecessary Wrench Pullin "Watch That shaft Very Close in GOOD LITE ! You cannot be on both sides at the Same Time !,,,with Someone else cranking Motor ,, ROOSA Master Pumps are a fooler to make you think it is broke And it is NOt !! ,,, My JD4020 pulled that trick on Me ,OK ,,ALSO I FEEL ,,,, and thats just me , that you STILL are not getting adequete fuel ,, A diesel will get so dry that it Will not fire on ether after serveral trys ,,,especially the 430-630 motors,,Blow All the Lines Thru Good . bleed the lines , filll the tank if you have to to get a healthy flow thru ,,. And Good LUCK , and have a valuable enjoyable time learnin">>>><<< .......

 

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Ok:

Have blown the fuel line from tank to fuel pump. Taken out the fuel filters and they look clean probably less than 10 hours on the filters. Have removed air filter to the intake manifold, still no joy. When I have, a chance will remove inspection plate from fuel pump. This is starting to become a career.

The fuel lines from the pump are unusual in that they have a hole in the side through which a bolt secures them to the pump. Is it advisable to remove these and blow them out?

Greg

 

[Anonymous-0]

Greg , Make sure You Have good flow , with a full tank fuel ought to come thru the line at a rate that will fill a quart jug in a minute or less,, So often This type of problem is crud at the bottom of tank interupting Flow , don't matter what rainbow of Colors , If the tractor does not see much action this is a common problem, The fittings You describe are banjo type that are typical to roosa Master pumps , , these pumps are also used on a rainbow of Color makes... with Adequete Flow proven ,if it were mine , I would Take a 6 sided socket and break a couple of The lines LOOSe that I could reach easily ,THey will Be tight , Righty /tighty and Lefty /LOOSEY OK ,.. All you want to do is crank engine till fuel pumps all airthru pump , tighten back ,, and with any luck at ALL it will start at full throttle and perhaps , with a little help from ether,. As for Pump Inspection plate .Something usually causes a pump to malfunction , and i sicerely doubt you have a problem there ,,, when you do check that , have Good lite, because it will make you think the other half is not turning , and you will end up yanking the pump and spending bucks you don't need ta 'spend ...

 

[Greg Sznajdruk]

jdemaris:

I have some ether one of my neighbouring farmer gave me. I’ve shot some ether into the intake; I’ve been warned to use just a squirt. It doesn’t really start it does defiantly creates a clanking noise in the engine. I’ve never seen this done so I’m not sure what to expect. I would like to get one of the local farmers over to show me how to do this, but they seem to place a higher priority on cutting and bailing for some reason.

Greg