CASE 580F power shuttle repair

[Johan800]

Hi All. New user here, and I am almost ready to give up on my CASE 580F TLB.The problem started when the machine did not want to go forward or was sluggish . A friend advised me to change the three big clutch plates in the power shuttle, so I did.....Then I had forward but no reverse. I opened the shuttle even more and discovered that the spring holding the 6 small clutch plates broke and one of the broken pieces was stuck in the shuttle, got them all out. I got a new spring and new clutch plates and fitted them. I started the machine up and she was going forward and she reversed for a while (about 15 minutes) then I stopped her near my workshop to repair the tyres, when I fired her back up she had no drive what so ever. When I lift up the machine, the wheels turn very slowly and if I go underneath I can stop the prop shaft with my hand. I checked the oil level, I checked all the oil filters, I checked the solenoid and even disconnected it. I don"t know what to do next...I contacted a case technician and he said that it could be the spool that is giving me these headaches. I opened up the spool and got a drawing from the internet, and although it does not look right I assembled it again just like the drawing said and still no luck. Can someone please help me with any suggestions

 

[Agri King]

I have one apart also. From a 580 Super E. I bought a service manual off eBay. My charge pump looks bad. I am getting a reman torque converter & charge pump from Case. I didn't think it was to bad at $500 for the pair. You need to get a manual and check pressures. Maybe Mel here could give us both some tips or tricks?

 

[MJ in the UK]

Hi folks, that is a Warner T72 transmission and yes the casing wears were the control spool control rings runs. Also the bellville washers break up, thats the big washers on the right of the picture. You are doing right by fitting a new converter and pump. MJ

 

[mEl]

(quoted from post at 10:16:23 11/26/13) Hi folks, that is a Warner T72 transmission and yes the casing wears were the control spool control rings runs. Also the bellville washers break up, thats the big washers on the right of the picture. You are doing right by fitting a new converter and pump. MJ

I would really like to be able to tell in a few paragraphs how to build and set up your reversers but it is not possible. The important things are setting up the FWD clutch pac clearance by selecting the proper snap ring from the selection in the kit setting the clearance at the snap ring and backing plate,I like about .020, the book spec is broad with a max of .040 I believe, installing the piston seals in the housing without cutting them and installing the clutch drum into the planetary without cutting the small fiber seals on the fwd clutch feed. After the clutch pac is set up for clearance the shaft must be installed into the planetary, I roll the little seals up into a tight circle to give them a little "set" then fill the grooves with a tacky grease and roll the seals into the grease to keep them tight as they can be cut if they are at all out of place.

I see that you have not removed the mainshaft yet, there are two "hook type seals" that must be replaced on that shaft.

Case sells kits, seal, plate, and bearing kits for convenience.

One other important thing , leave the drum bearing out till you have dropped the drum over the plates as wiggling the drum is a necessity for starting the exterior teeth in the drum, after the plates are all started the bearing can be installed easily,I do it with the shaft sitting vertically and sit the drum down over it till the shaft is in position to place the bearing.

New snaprings are included in the kit.

In the last 2 weeks I have done two but it seems to run in streaks.

As the other posted, be mindful of wear at the spool valve lands if a lot of metal has circlated especially.

A factory rebild would make more sense tha replacing a housing and spook valve all things considered,

Prelube the pump and turn it carefully to work oil through it, and make sure the drive lugs are 90 degress from the converter lugs.

I could go on but those are the high points of rebuilding.

The converter should be replaced as they act as a big centrifuge and spin all the debris from the clutch failure to the outside and it will eventually come back to go through the system. A lot of times thepump and converter lugs are worn crooked anyway.

mEl