Case 930 CK Temperature issues

[Dutsch]

This post was edited by Dutsch on 05/15/2022 at 08:02 pm.

 

[WilBury]

Opening yourself up to a deluge of rad cleaning techniques here, but here's my $.02.
If you want to avoid replacing/re-coring the rad, use only clean water to flush, everything else can eat it.
The block can probably handle a cleaner, but don't run it thru your rad. I would do it before you replace water pump, etc.

 

[Bruce from Can.]

I dont have one real good answer for your problem, as
I have done battle with my 930 to keep it cool over the
years also. To me, there just isnt enough radiator on
these tractors to be able to afford anything less than a
perfectly clean rad. I did take my rad out to a rad man
and had it cleaned, and it made a world of difference.
But nothing beats blowing them out with compressed
air frequently. Just a word about the lower rad hose. I
found the fan belt ran very close to the hose, close
enough that from time to time, the belt would actually
rub the hose enough to wear a hole through, even
though the belt seems tight, and doesnt touch when
the tractor isnt running. I split open an aluminum pop
can, a placed it around the lower rad hose, held in
place with a gear clamp. Did this probably 8 years
ago, solved this little problem. I think the new rad
hoses are just a tad thicker than the original.

You could also put on a fan with more blades to
increase air flow, something I have considered, but
not tried yet myself. Strangely enough my 1030 never
offers to heat up. Same basic unit.

 

[Brokengun]

I solved the heating issues on my 930s buy replacing the radiator. The problem is I bought my NEW radiators from Shoup and the company that makes them has the lower
inlet turned wrong and it raises the lower hose high enough that the fan belts hit if not super tight.

 

[jon f mn]

A 1030 radiator has an extra row of tubes in it from the factory. But when new the 1030 had more with running hot than the 930. I suspect all new radiators today have the same number of rows and I'm not sure hw many that is. I got a new one from John Saeli for my 1030 and it works great..

 

[Bruce from Can.]

Interesting. Do you have good clearance with the fan belts on the lower rad hose? I am wondering if the bottom of the rad is different on your new rad, or at least placement of the lower out let

 

[Dutsch]

(quoted from post at 07:52:02 04/28/22) I dont have one real good answer for your problem, as
I have done battle with my 930 to keep it cool over the
years also. To me, there just isnt enough radiator on
these tractors to be able to afford anything less than a
perfectly clean rad. I did take my rad out to a rad man
and had it cleaned, and it made a world of difference.
But nothing beats blowing them out with compressed
air frequently. Just a word about the lower rad hose. I
found the fan belt ran very close to the hose, close
enough that from time to time, the belt would actually
rub the hose enough to wear a hole through, even
though the belt seems tight, and doesnt touch when
the tractor isnt running. I split open an aluminum pop
can, a placed it around the lower rad hose, held in
place with a gear clamp. Did this probably 8 years
ago, solved this little problem. I think the new rad
hoses are just a tad thicker than the original.

You could also put on a fan with more blades to
increase air flow, something I have considered, but
not tried yet myself. Strangely enough my 1030 never
offers to heat up. Same basic unit.

I noticed the belt is touching the hose and was thinking to do the same as you have done. Thanks.

 

[Dutsch]

(quoted from post at 06:55:39 04/28/22) Opening yourself up to a deluge of rad cleaning techniques here, but here's my $.02.
If you want to avoid replacing/re-coring the rad, use only clean water to flush, everything else can eat it.
The block can probably handle a cleaner, but don't run it thru your rad. I would do it before you replace water pump, etc.

Had a 77 year old radiator guy look at it today. He recommended replacing but could try clean by flushing/soaking. He mentioned Clorox, but my thought was to soak with cascade liquid detergent and rinse in several cycles both in and out. Avoid any acid type cleaners.

Plan to hook a garden hose to the engine and flush in both directions as well while everything is accesable.

 

[jon f mn]

Never paid much attention to the hose other than it's close. This new one is also very close to the fan, so close you have to take the radiator loose to change belts. Mine also has the 6 blade fan which is supposed to help.

 

[WilBury]

Hehe, I [u:79d66c8056]always[/u:79d66c8056] try to get the old guy!
Definitely worth a try Dutsch. If she doesn't leak yet, why push yer luck. Wonder if you can capture it & weigh the gunk, lol.

Oh, for what it's worth, my septic guy said not to use dishwasher soap as it turns to a solid in your tank.

This post was edited by WilBury on 04/28/2022 at 04:09 pm.

 

[chcase]

Jon, If you can find a OEM 6 blade fan blade they have the corners trimmed just a little bit so you can slip the new belts on without having to loosen the radiator.All the new and after market. Fans don't have the blades trimmed.

 

[casecollectorsc]

Filled one with straight vinegar and ran for 120 miles on my Dodge Cummins. Radiator was corroded over and after flushing the vinegar out it
looked like new. Ran on 95 days last summer pulling a 32 foot fifth wheel camper and never ran hot. Have done it on smaller Case tractors
with good luck. Wouldn't cost much to find out.

 

[casecollectorsc]

Earlier 930 Western Special tractors with 6 spd and round fenders had 6 blade fans.

 

[sparkiefarmer]

I was told to totally submerge the rad in a solution of CLR for a week.
I did that with my 830's rad and although it did get a pile of crap out, it also leaked badly after. I sent it away for a re-core, and got charged $40 less than I could have bought a new one for. But my heating issue is solved so I guess thats the main thing.

 

[mEl]

(quoted from post at 09:21:04 04/28/22) Ive pulled an old Case 930 CK with 401 diesel 2 range, 4 speed out of the barn thats been sitting 20 years. Before parking had pulled a round baler. Hadnt been very well maintained judging from air cleaner, filters, general condition. No gauges working.

Intending to run a small hay grinder (55HP) to mix feed. Fired right up after all those years sitting. After a couple new tires, found the PTO was not holding. Rebuilt clutches. Hooked up to grinder and ran hot, boiling, inside 15 mins. Cooled down, re-topped, and same. Pulled thermostats, Looked bad but actually function, opening at 180. Replaced temp gauge with a mechanical gauge. Left out thermostats. Cranked and took a while to get to 160 (20 mins) Ran up and down the road at WOT in H2. Temp finally got to 205 in another 20 mins. I stopped at that point thinking itd continue to boiling. Let it fast idle for 5 mins and only cooled 2.5-3 degrees. Thinking was going to run hot, pulled the radiator. It looked bad on inside as I can see but maybe a couple gallons from a water hose held in inlet passing through. Can see through fins in some area but not all. Also the water pump suction hose is soft and is not wire reinforced (maybe the wires are completely disintegrated?). Planning on changing the water pump, thermostats, hoses and getting radiator cleaned. Looking for any recommendations going forward on cleaning radiator (not many shops left) and engine flushing, or any other relevant topics. Thanks.

Maybe it would be a good idea to check the injection timing , slow timing may make it have a tendency to heat up. also make sure there are no bubbles coming up, a head gasket leak will areate the antifreeze and destroy its ability to carry heat.

 

[munson1086]

As many have said already - replace the radiator. Will be the best $600 you can spend. Had a 930 that we fought with for years running hot and over heating. Ended up cracking heads multiple times. Save yourself the headache and money - just replace the radiator.

Matt

 

[Dutsch]

(quoted from post at 07:04:23 04/29/22) As many have said already - replace the radiator. Will be the best $600 you can spend. Had a 930 that we fought with for years running hot and over heating. Ended up cracking heads multiple times. Save yourself the headache and money - just replace the radiator.

Matt

You were spot on. Replaced radiator and cap, water pump that looked ok, thermostats, and a few hoses. Just driving around you could see the thermostats opening and closing by the temp gauge - 180 to 176. Hooked up to the grinder and temp got to 185 in the shade. When I got the tub fully loaded and drove through field it got to 190 then back to 180 on the drive back with no pto.

 

[Dutsch]

Ive pulled an old Case 930 CK with 401 diesel 2 range, 4 speed out of the barn thats been sitting 20 years. Before parking had pulled a round baler. Hadnt been very well maintained judging from air cleaner, filters, general condition. No gauges working.

Intending to run a small hay grinder (55HP) to mix feed. Fired right up after all those years sitting. After a couple new tires, found the PTO was not holding. Rebuilt clutches. Hooked up to grinder and ran hot, boiling, inside 15 mins. Cooled down, re-topped, and same. Pulled thermostats, Looked bad but actually function, opening at 180. Replaced temp gauge with a mechanical gauge. Left out thermostats. Cranked and took a while to get to 160 (20 mins) Ran up and down the road at WOT in H2. Temp finally got to 205 in another 20 mins. I stopped at that point thinking itd continue to boiling. Let it fast idle for 5 mins and only cooled 2.5-3 degrees. Thinking was going to run hot, pulled the radiator. It looked bad on inside as I can see but maybe a couple gallons from a water hose held in inlet passing through. Can see through fins in some area but not all. Also the water pump suction hose is soft and is not wire reinforced (maybe the wires are completely disintegrated?). Planning on changing the water pump, thermostats, hoses and getting radiator cleaned. Looking for any recommendations going forward on cleaning radiator (not many shops left) and engine flushing, or any other relevant topics. Thanks.

UPDATE
Changed water pump, radiator and cap, belt, hoses and oil and all the filters. Couldnt get it over 180 just riding around, Hooked to the hay grinder and loaded a bale. Got to 185 in the shade while grinding/mixing. Reached 190 driving to the field while grinding/dumping. Back down to 180 after pto was off and driving back. Ran great. Next to get a fuel consumption for this 45 mins of work and fix a few more things.

 

[Dutsch]

Found the same issue with the belt. Ended up getting a size smaller belt and it just fit on and left lots of clearance by the hose although i only ran 1 belt.

 

[Dutsch]

I did not with old rad and new rad. I went with 1 smaller belt and it just fit and left lots of clearance.

 

[WilBury]

Glad to hear your success story. On behalf of all, thx for the feedback!