Bobmighells
New User
Was running fine, shut down and now won't crank and the battery is fine. Are the switches that fail for the clutch? If that isn't it then please give me some guidance.
Hello Bob welcome to YT! Let’s make sure our terminology is agreeing. A.) Does “won’t crank” mean the battery starter motor is not engaging to turn or crank the engine? B.) Some folks come on here and use the term “won’t crank” to mean the engine is turning but will not actually start and run. Is it A or B?Was running fine, shut down and now won't crank and the battery is fine. Are the switches that fail for the clutch? If that isn't it then please give me some guidance.
Neutral safety switch...?OK I understand what you're saying. I removed and cleaned the terminals of the battery. I turn the key and nothing.
What do you mean by nothing? No power at all? Or the gauges light up but no click at the starter?OK I understand what you're saying. I removed and cleaned the terminals of the battery. I turn the key and nothing.
No. The tractor is not that sophisticated. It will happily let you run it without oil and destroy everything.I checked for loose wires at the starter but they were tight without corrosion. I am loosing hydraulic fluid somewhere and can't figure out where to add it. Is it possible that the low level is causing it?
Was running fine, shut down and now won't crank and the battery is fine. Are the switches that fail for the clutch? If that isn't it then please give me some guidance.
I have taken a wire and hooked it to pos. pole and go directly to the starter wire on starter to see if the starter has shorted out or has a dead spot. I run case 30 and 70 series. much the same as DB. not uncommon to have a ignition switch go bad, or the wire is broken between switch and starter. most often we just hook up a new wire and bypass the ignition. gets us by till we have time to fix it correctly. Yes a 12 v test light is all you need to check where and where you do not have power.Was running fine, shut down and now won't crank and the battery is fine. Are the switches that fail for the clutch? If that isn't it then please give me some guidance.
As Barnyard posted, this is almost always caused by resistance in the terminals. They need to not just be clean but SHINY and clean. A problem terminal can often be isolated by the heat that it will give off if you hold the key to start for a few seconds. What does " Is there a with somewhere for the clutch?" mean?I checked for loose wires at the starter but they were tight without corrosion. I am loosing hydraulic fluid somewhere and can't figure out where to add it. Is it possible that the low level is causing it?
Showcrop and others, I PM’d him some manual links but he replied he has them he just has difficulty applying the info to complete the required tasks. I think I interpret the sentence showcrop ask for clarification on as asking if there is a clutch safety switch? Looking at the manual there is not. The wiring diagram in the manual I have was very poorly copied, it was probably a fold out. There is a neutral switch on the tractor, it is one of the screw in type that operates by a ball on the end drops in the notch of a shift rail.As Barnyard posted, this is almost always caused by resistance in the terminals. They need to not just be clean but SHINY and clean. A problem terminal can often be isolated by the heat that it will give off if you hold the key to start for a few seconds. What does " Is there a with somewhere for the clutch?" mean?
Thank you so much for this information. I will dig into those solutions tomorrow.Showcrop and others, I PM’d him some manual links but he replied he has them he just has difficulty applying the info to complete the required tasks. I think I interpret the sentence showcrop ask for clarification on as asking if there is a clutch safety switch? Looking at the manual there is not. The wiring diagram in the manual I have was very poorly copied, it was probably a fold out. There is a neutral switch on the tractor, it is one of the screw in type that operates by a ball on the end drops in the notch of a shift rail.
Bob, hopefully your repair manual is like the copy I have. In the repair manual Section 4001 is Electrical Troubleshooting go to page 4001-6 figure 3A, it shows the starter and solenoid. Make absolutely sure the tractor is neutral. Pull out the fuel shut off so the engine doesn’t start. Pull the plug off the spade that points up to 1 o’clock or so. Take a screwdriver and short across the top battery cable post over to the spade. This should engage your starter. If not you most likely still have a battery terminal connection problem.
If that does engage it go to page 4001-10 in figure 5A it shows you what the neutral safety switch looks like, it should be somewhere around the gearshift on the top of the transmission and of course wires run to it. Do as they show there and make a jumper to temporarily test the circuit. Test the starter with the dash switch. If this makes the starter work than your neutral switch is bad.
What oil does your manual say to use, that you can't find. Best to give that info as a starting point.Thanks for all the help here. I got it running from everything I was told. I have a leak of trans fluid and want to fill it up but the oil that my manual says to use I can't find. What can I safely use?
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