Case o matic operation

Joe kirby

Member
Can someone post the instructions on how to operate the Case-o-matic transmission on a 630 case. Info anybody? thanks to all that reply to beginners like me!!!!
 
Don't know that I ever saw printed instructions. Use your common sense. 1st thing, make sure the resovoir is up to the full mark w/ "Transmission-Hydraulic Oil" such as "Hy-Tran".
Be sure the engine is at idle when you let the clutch out. Don't try to pull a load in too high a gear or you will seriously wear & warp parts. In other words, don't try to plow in a gear that will run at 6MPH when common sense says you can't go over 3 1/2MPH.
To insure long life of the Direct Drive, don't pull the lever down until the Case-O-Matic has already achieved 2/3 of the ground speed. I always quickly back off the throttle like a truck 2 speed rear axle when I go from Converter to direct.
 
Hi,I leaned to do fieldwork on a 830 caseomatic,as a kid all I knew about it was Hi and Low and you kept it in high going down hills.We plowed with it all day long in third low if thats all the faster you could go.It did eveything from grind feed to culivate and everything in between.Had 4000hrs on it inlate 1971 Dad traded it for an 870. All it ever had was the valves ground once.What Im saying is its a tough tranny and you dont have to baby it to much.
 
Here is what Joe needs to remember, yes it was a tough tranny, but your 830 was 10 years old at the most when you used it. Joe's 630 is 50 years old, or will soon be. Most likely seen a lot of use.
 
basics are to remember it is a torque converter. It will behave like a car with an automatic. If you are in too high of a gear or too much load it won't go without alot of throttle. You can also hold it with the brakes in the higher gears and at idle (if you have decent brakes). If you are pulling something remember it will be like towing with an automatic truck. You'll have to give it some gas to get it going.

Now. Other points. The other lever by the steering wheel (not the throttle) is the Case-omatic direct drive lever. When releaseing the clutch you'll always be in torque converter mode. After you get going and are nearly at speed you can move this lever to put it in direct drive. This locks the torque converter to prevent slipping. Slipping causes heat in the oil (note there should be 2 lines that go from the trans to the radiator that cool the oil). If driving around you will feel a lurch when engaging the direct drive. As others mentioned I usually let off the throttle before going to direct drive. If you're in direct drive and go to stop and press the clutch the tractor will automatically move the lever back to torque converter mode. If you're out working with it in direct drive and the tractor start to bog down move the lever into COMatic mode and it will work thru it and then go back to direct drive when out of the tough spot.

They work great once you get the hang of it.

IMportant to have the right fluid and keep the fluid cool. Most guys recommend Dexron III automatic fluid (replaces the old stuff) and do NOT work it too hard in direct drive (down shift) as you will wear out these clutches and you'll have to rebuild.

NOTE: all the clutch engagements are done hydraulically via the 2 spool valves hooked to the clutch pedal and direct drive lever. No pressure no functions.

That's the basics. Give it a try and let us know if you have any more questions.
 
Thats true,Im not the same at 55 as I used to be either.Had a dealer tell me one time he had COM tractor come in that got so hot it burned the paint off the outside,I dont know how but you can wreck them too.
 
those are goood points that i try to follow ,30 yrs ago ,,i asked cusin Donnie best way to handle the 800 he still has today on his place ,,his reply ,, "AwwHW Hale! Jim , Just Ramit and cramit!..and run her hard ! , You aint gonna hurt it none "
 
Thanks for all the input you guys have given me on COM operation. I will put it to work this weekend. Thanks again!!
 
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