Case SC Battery Draw

[Derweibhai]

I just rebuilt my generator with a kit off ebay (super easy to do), and replaced the regulator with a NOS Delco-Remy D-647 (hate chinese junk). https://www.ebay.com/itm/325544444066.

I replaced the wires in the same order that I took them off the old regulator (battery in the middle, arm and field to either side). This new regulator had an "L" mark for load with battery in the middle and I cant recall what the other was.

It is now charging, but it drains the battery when off (sparks pretty good when you remove the battery wire off the regulator. My ammeter runs clear to +20 when running at speed, and is only a little lower at idle. The battery reads 6.2 V most of the time, so it isnt the strongest even though it is only a couple months old. It sat at least 1/2-3/4 charged while I was messing with the charging system trying to get it fixed.

My tractor has 1 wire to the switch to ground the magneto and even after replacing the switch and manually grounding it, it will not shut off the spark the way it is meant to. Basically the switch has nothing to do with the charging system.

I pulled the battery wire off and left it off the regulator for the time being.

Thoughts?

 

[Greenfrog]

I have an SC and a DC. They sit a lot. Used mainly just for show and parade. Both restored and
repainted.
Yes, there seems to be a draw on the battery. I stopped that! I learn from guys at tractor shows,
that a cut out switch in the positive side will stop that draw down. Also, when on display, some kid
will get on there a pull the ign. Switch on and battery goes dead. With the cutout switch, no
problem. This way you know off is off. Notice at tractor shows how many have these cutoff switches
on. There are twist and turn types, or knife type that you can put into the cables. Automotive
stores have them, tractor supply, farm stores, a probably Amazon.
Is safer to have these installed. Also, guys with restored autos, or the tin dusters as they are called,
will often have these cutoff switches right on the batteries.
Hope this helps.

 

[Greenfrog]

Tractor show guys say that THAT wire from the generator is the source of the slow leak of power that causes the draw down. I cant explain it, nor understand it, but that is where the draw is at when they sit a lot. In the old days, we used them every day and never noticed.
Ive also learned that 6 volt battery manufacturing is not that great. There are no good six volt out there! Ive tried several brands, none last very long.
Actually, I will pose a question:
What brand of 6 volt is best?

 

[tractorguy2]

I'd like to know more about your regulator. The link doesn't work. I rebuilt my SC's 6 volt generator last summer and can't find a regulator for a 6 volt
negative ground system anywhere.

 

[J Hamilton]

The Brillman company has them, but they are expensive

 

[Derweibhai]

Here is the text from the listing. I cant remember exactly what I searched for. It works great other than the battery drain though.

Delco-Remy D-647, 1118790 voltage regulator for Allis-Calmers, Co-Op, & other tractors

6 volt

Fits:
B.F. Avery & Sons V with Delco Generator #1101659
Cockshutt [ 40 Blackhawk, 40 (GAS, SN; 6786 & UP) ], [ 50 Blackhawk, 50 (GAS) ], 30 (GAS, SN; 31196 & UP);
John Deere B [SN 201,000 & UP], R
Minneapolis Moline [ R, RTE, RTN, RTS (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 14900001 and up) ], UTC (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 1500101 and up), UTE (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 4300001 and up), UTN (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 3800205 and up), UTS (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 1205554 to 1210571), UTU (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 1108298 and up), [ ZA, ZAS, ZAU (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; up to SN: 701910) ], [ ZAE, ZAN (Gas, LP; 6-Volt) ];
Oliver OC-4, Super 44 (Gas), Super 55, Super 77, Super 88, Super 99, 66, 77, 80, 88, 99

 

[J Hamilton]

I have a 6 volt batteries in my VAC and SC that are going on 3 years old that I got from Rural King, no problems with them

 

[mEl]

(quoted from post at 16:47:25 04/21/23) Here is the text from the listing. I cant remember exactly what I searched for. It works great other than the battery drain though.

Delco-Remy D-647, 1118790 voltage regulator for Allis-Calmers, Co-Op, & other tractors

6 volt

Fits:
B.F. Avery & Sons V with Delco Generator #1101659
Cockshutt [ 40 Blackhawk, 40 (GAS, SN; 6786 & UP) ], [ 50 Blackhawk, 50 (GAS) ], 30 (GAS, SN; 31196 & UP);
John Deere B [SN 201,000 & UP], R
Minneapolis Moline [ R, RTE, RTN, RTS (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 14900001 and up) ], UTC (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 1500101 and up), UTE (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 4300001 and up), UTN (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 3800205 and up), UTS (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 1205554 to 1210571), UTU (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; SN: 1108298 and up), [ ZA, ZAS, ZAU (Gas, LP; 6-Volt; up to SN: 701910) ], [ ZAE, ZAN (Gas, LP; 6-Volt) ];
Oliver OC-4, Super 44 (Gas), Super 55, Super 77, Super 88, Super 99, 66, 77, 80, 88, 99

It is not normal to have a heavy current draw at the battery when disconnecting the cable, that indicates that the contacts inside the regulator are stuck together. Did you polarize the generator after the rebuild and installation? Do you have the system set up for the proper polarity. If correct that will set for months with no drawdown of the battery. If I were in your place I would remove the regulator cap carefully and look at the cutout relay contacts, they should be open when shut off and close when the engine starts, charging voltage should be closer to 8V when the battery is full charge. Edit to add, Deka batteries are hard to beat in my opinion.

This post was edited by mEl on 04/22/2023 at 04:59 am.

 

[Derweibhai]

Pulled off the cover and there are 2 sets of points. When it it is running I measured 13.5v + or - .2v. It is a 6v generator and says 6v right on the regulator.

If I break contact with the points that are closed while running I get 0v, if I close them it goes back to 13.5, and when I contact the other points that run open it drops to 7.5v. Those points are adjustable, but even with the screw all the way in it still takes a slight pressure to get them to snap closed. I am not a very good electrician so help would be appreciated. I know it is supposed to charge at the 7.5v setting, but it won't do it unless manually set by contacting the second set of points.

Also there is a small ARC crossing the other set of points when closed so I assume that is bad for them and not normal (when I get the 7.5v). If I bump them together slightly they stay closed and the ARC stops. Everything inside is shiny and new as this is a NOS regulator.