chainsaw sharpeners

[MI AC Parsons]

Any have any + or - experience with chain saw sharpeners like Harbor Freight or Garrett Wade? Don't know if they are mickey mouse or pretty good. thanks

 

[Anonymous-0]

Pretty good results with the HF one that I have, just be careful, and double check the settings, when you change from right to left cutters. the depth set on the cut can advance more on one side than the other, after you turn it. I always do a bunch, on a rainy day, so I take my time.

 

[J.Wondergem]

I have one from Harbor Freight also. Sure does a good job of cutting now. Just do as Diadave said, and double check your settings.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

A good old file does a good job enough job for me but I'm just a forester/logger.

Many people with grinders get the chains too hot and harden the cutting edges so that they no longer hold an edge and are way to hard to hand file.

 

[NEKS]

I just use the file and it works good. Boy got one from HF and the chain cut crooked. Thats the last time he has used it.

 

[RayP(MI)]

Freehand mine with an appropriate grinding tool on a Dremmel tool. Can do it a lot faster, and just as good. Gave up on files and jigs a long time ago.

 

[Nebraska Cowman]

I use a file.

 

[9Tractors]

I find it faster with file and will sharpen 3 times on bar before swapping chain, like to run 3 as a minimum chains per bar.

 

[tomNE]

my chainsaw repairman has one from hf and loves it. saw cuts great when i get it back from him!

 

[John 37A]

I ran a stihl sharpener bi-weekly for 6 years with very good results on customers' chains. Very nice unit. Had to be careful not to harden the chain. No advice on other units though.

 

[keh]

I do the same as RayP(MI). With a little care and experience you won't heat up the chain.

KEH

 

[onefarmer]

I bought an Oregon sharpener. It"s more like the pro"s. I like that I can take as much or as little off as needed.

 

[RGMartin]

The HF sharpener doesn't control chain position well, and doesn't hold the chains well. The whole idea of grinding a chain over filing it is that every tooth will be exactly the same. Simply not possible with the HF grinder.

The Oregon is the least expensive that has repeatability.

 

[ericlb]

what i use is a file mounted in the 'file-n-joint chainsaw sharpener, from richmond ca, the company is still in business today, it mounts to the bar, and once mounted correctly you dont move it untill done, it has degreed adjustment for pitch, depth and height as well as the file head can be swiviled 180 degrees for doing the other side teeth, it will hold any size round chainsaw file and you can get repete feature by simply counting the file strokes, PROVIDING the chain hasnt been rocked, and you have to file the damaged teeth smooth again, ive used this one for years and it always works great

 

[Billy NY]

I use a bar clamp on guide, made by stihl, they offer 2 types, one for field use and one for the work bench, I have the latter, but use it whenever needed. It provides an accurate means to sharpen the cutters, easily set up, takes me 10 minutes to do a 20" chain, paid $100 for it, well worth it. I count the number of strokes as needed, same with rakers when the need to be taken down, always cuts straight and smooth.

My friend used to use a dremel, I'd have to re-do his chains, was always off and the cutters lose excessive metal to get them back straight again, same with the freehand file that has a guide stamped into it. That bar clamp file guide is great, maintains the angle accurately, and allows you to check to make sure the file engages the cutter correctly and the same for each one, I just did my chain and checked it on a 30" oak log, tossed nice chips like snow, straight, and smooth cut. If a chain gets "buggered" up, hit something will take longer, but one that is just starting to dull or due, 10 minutes and its like a new chain.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

All you guys that use a grinder or jig to sharpen your chains must be cutting on a wood pile right outside your garage? If i had to go and grind my chain everytime it got a little dull I would spend a lot of time walking and driving back to the garage to sharpen the chain.

Many times 2-3 swipes of each tooth with a file and your good to go. Can be done in 5 minutes right where your cutting.

 

[buickanddeere]

(quoted from post at 10:33:41 11/12/11) All you guys that use a grinder or jig to sharpen your chains must be cutting on a wood pile right outside your garage? If i had to go and grind my chain everytime it got a little dull I would spend a lot of time walking and driving back to the garage to sharpen the chain.

Many times 2-3 swipes of each tooth with a file and your good to go. Can be done in 5 minutes right where your cutting.

I carry a file and give the chain a quick touchup a time or two between machine sharpenings in a jig.
If it was a mess made by touching a stone or something. Why fool around with a file when the machine will make the chain factory fresh and true?

 

[RodinNS]

Most chains have a guide line on the cutter... Run the file parallel to the guide line and parallel to the plane of the cutter. Most times you hav free hand sharpen tehm with a file like that faster than you can remove and reinstall a chain on the bar...
Some attention to detail and you will get them as good as new.

Rod

 

[Mr. Bob]

i"ve been running chainsaws for decades. when i worked for a tree service, i was the sharpener for the crew. all i ever used then and now is a round chainsaw file. the only time i ever use a powered grinder is if i have hit metal or stone and have to take a large amount off the cutters. also i always check the rakers to seeif they need filed when i sharpen. a sharp chain with too high rakers will not cut well.

 

[VitoV]

The last time I took a chain to the local shop to get sharpened - he had sparks flying every which way. It seemed that he was taking way too much off for a simple sharpen job.
Decided to get a HF model when they went on sale for $30.
Now that I have all of my chains set to the same angle, all that I have to do is adjust in for the height and length of 1 tooth, the rest fall into place. I only have to "Kiss" the end of the teeth and I"m good to go.
I have several chains so that when I go into the woods, when it dulls, start cutting the small stuff. When it"s really dull, put on another resharp.
Works good for me!