Champion Generator

Pull the plug first too, but if liquid comes out I'd add one more check before trying to start it again: look at the engine oil and make sure the crankcase hasn't picked up gasoline. A leaking carb needle can fill the cylinder, and some of that fuel can get past the rings. If the oil level is mysteriously high or it smells strongly of gas, I'd change it before running the engine. Then with the plug out, turn it over by hand/pull cord first and see whether it moves normally. If it's still mechanically tight with the plug removed, then I'd start looking beyond compression release and hydrolock.
 
I called Champion to make sure the cam was still available before I dig into this thing.
Got 50 in stock and when he told me the price of $18 I about fell out my chair.
No wonder they break.
I wonder if it is plastic ????

Feeler gauge will be here tomorrow so I will adjust valves and if that does not work I will put this on my list of things to do.
Hurricane season is about over so I have till next summer to get it done.
 
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I called Champion to make sure the cam was still available before I dig into this thing.
Got 50 in stock and when he told me the price of $18 I about fell out my chair.
No wonder they break.
I wonder if it is plastic ????

Feeler gauge will be here tomorrow so I will adjust valves and if that does not work I will put this on my list of things to do.
Hurricane season is about over so I have till next summer to get it done.
No, but not too many people change them So they know they have you by the short hairs. Honda for the win!! 🤷‍♂️
 
Most of what I've seen here doesn't make any sense to me! A sheared key wouldn't make it impossible to turn over, especially with the ignition off. If it was firing way before tdc maybe a little resistance. When you had the valve cover off did the valves seem to be operating in the correct sequence? Did they both open a significant amount? Does it spin over with the electric start with the spark plug out? I would squirt some oil in the cylinder before doing anything more, if it was hydro locked with gas you may score the cylinder. If you can't figure this out you should give it to a mechanic and buy a new one. I was given a generator last year that the owner gave up on, for under $20 I got it running like new!
 
Time to work logically instead of silly videos and parts calls. Suspect cam equals set up your dial, roll over and simply check. Look up specs, or assume about .25inch lift and more or less same I vs. E. Doubt any exotic grind. If as bad as you imply, troubles will not be hard to see, even short of published #s.
 
When you had the valve cover off did the valves seem to be operating in the correct sequence? Did they both open a significant amount?
Yes but I did not notice the small bump in the rocker arm that allows the compression release to work

Does it spin over with the electric start with the spark plug out?
Yes

I would squirt some oil in the cylinder before doing anything more, if it was hydro locked with gas you may score the cylinder.
It was NOT hydro locked


If you can't figure this out you should give it to a mechanic and buy a new one.
I have it figured out
Either the valves are to loose not allowing the compression release to work or the cam is bad
I will check the valve clearance before I dig into it but I'm 99.99 percent sure the cam is bad.
 
This ain,t rocket science, or a Jag V12. Beer can thickness or less is too tight, shipping tag,, .O10 plus, or more is to loose. As to cam, see above. Just a mower motor! Thought this over again, I now side with Mr. RUSS, above. Best for you to most simply pass this along. Life is too short. Certainty to two decimal places folly.
 
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I am sure the exhaust valve specification for the engine in question is .006-.007. The compression release will not function unless it is set at that specification. If it looks ok, it is probably too loose. 6 thousands is scary tight for us old guys. I had trouble accepting it the first time myself.
 
I am sure the exhaust valve specification for the engine in question is .006-.007. The compression release will not function unless it is set at that specification. If it looks ok, it is probably too loose. 6 thousands is scary tight for us old guys. I had trouble accepting it the first time myself.
Now that I think about it you are most likely correct.
If I can feel clearance in the rocker they are to loose.
Something about the mind
You read 0.006 and think 0.06
0.006 is scarey tight for sure

Valve Clearance
Intake 0.004-0.006 in. (0.10-0.15 mm)
Exhaust 0.006-0.008 in. (0.15-0.20 mm)
 
Now that I think about it you are most likely correct.
If I can feel clearance in the rocker they are to loose.
Something about the mind
You read 0.006 and think 0.06
0.006 is scarey tight for sure

Valve Clearance
Intake 0.004-0.006 in. (0.10-0.15 mm)
Exhaust 0.006-0.008 in. (0.15-0.20 mm)
That’s what clearance is on fc150 Kawasaki .0047, set at .005. Not scary, just what it is, set one yesterday
 
I don't think the compression release is your problem, we hand started bigger engines for years that didn't have them, they just make it easier to turn over. Have you tried putting some oil in the cylinder and then rolling it over with the spark plug out, then put the plug in and pull hard, and slowly on the rope? It's posible you have something much more serious, like a broken piston, that jambs up when under compression.
 
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