checking back in

[ED-IL]

so - 46 2N 6 volt pos ground sputtering after 10-60 minutes run time - here is a followup

bought a new coil - started and ran well - thought I had it - sputtering after about 10 minutes

into the garage - jumpered over the ignition switch - started and ran well - dragged slush and ice for about 20 minutes - started sputtering again.

I think I see a pattern and want input on it - each time it started sputtering, the front of the tractor was elevated, facing up hill.

Is it possible there is some sediment that works its way back toward the fuel bowl when in that configuration?

If I were to yank the valve, how does one clean out the fuel tank?

Or is it possible this is another electrical componant I havent thought of?

Input is apreciated

 

[Ed S.]

You might be on to something. If your sputtering started after cold weather, it could also be ice in the tank (from condensation during warmer days). Wouldn't hurt anything to drain the tank, clean all three screens, and pour some clean gas through the tank to help wash out any remnants before putting the fuel strainer back in place.

I had to do something similar a couple seasons ago due to sputtering under load (I pulled the tank so I could swish the gas around better - that was a chore!). Seemed to mostly clear up afterwards, and doesn't do it at all now.

es

 

[souNdguy]

Input:

Don't bounce back and forth about electrical.. Either eliminate it as a cause.. or determine it to be the cause! When it starts sputtering.. CHECK SPARK right then and there.. don't limp it back anywhere to wait for the symptom to disappear.. carry an extra plug and a gator clip wire so you can ground a plug and pop a spark plug wire on it.. and then check 1 at a time, down the line. If spark is good.. go for fuel.

( It's sounding like fuel to me.. just hearing what you have said so far. )

Soundguy

 

[Herman, MN.]

If you use gas with ethanol in it, water should not be a problem in the gas tank, I had similar problem, only during the summer, and the cooler it was the longer it ran good, once warm, it would sputter and etc. after getting frustrated and checked about everything you did, turned out that the points were not gapped correctly, less than a year old on the points, but had slipped out of place, that's my thought. Has run great ever since.

Joel

 

[ED-IL]

you are right SG - I want to eliminate the electrical as a cause first - the whole nose up hill is what is bugging me and the way it stopps if you let the tractor cool down a little. If it were sediment or something in the gas I would think it would stay that way since when limping back to the garage it still sputters

so before dumping the fuel I will pull the distributor and take a look

 

[Herman, MN.]

Another thought that I had about the nose of the tractor up hill is that maybe it is working a bit harder and that is when it misses, same thing when my points problem, when it started to miss when I was using a flail mower, but when I lifted up on the ends then it quit because it wasn't under as much load then, just my experience.

Joel

 

[ED-IL]

looking at the points is the next step - we shouldn't have any snow until the 20th around here so I have a little time to take a look

gotta love the 6volt system

 

[duey]

Easy to do, when it starts sputtering, loosen the fuel cap and onserve if that helps... in case the vent is clogged up...

Check the points gap, and be sure they aren't too close.. or too wide...

good luck duey

 

[Anonymous-0]

the float in the carb is set wrong, or draging against something at the uphill angle. next time it acts up, bang on the carb with a peice of wood. if this helps, the float is probably draging. if it dont help then check the setting of the float. i really think the float setting is letting in just enough gas to run good on flat ground, but not enough for the change to uphill. RP

 

[Colin King]

Ed,

How"s that hand healing up after your corn picker encounter?

Colin

 

[ED-IL]

do you mean burning it on the exhaust manifold yesterday when checking for a spark? it smarts a little

 

[Colin King]

Didn't you get it banged up pretty bad in early November while picking corn?

 

[Colin King]

Mis-identification ... there are 2 Eds from Ill on the board. The Ed in question is the first fellow who responded to you

Colin

 

[souNdguy]

I'd wait for it to sputter.. then check spark.

As for debri in the fuel line.. while it may partially block flow.. it may lett drips thru.. enough to keep the engine running weekly.. untill you shut her off to look.. while it 'cools'.. the drip -drip eventually fills the carbs bowl.. which gives you a feew more minutes of run time till she sputters again..e tc..

Soundguy

 

[ED-IL]

wow - hope he is okay - a hand has so many tendons and such even a small injury can take a while to heal.

I ran over my own hand with a sled while goofing around with my son and it still hurts

 

[ED-IL]

thanks sg - all this work is exciting - I never got to bypass the ignition switch before

 

[ED-IL]

thanks sg - all this work is exciting - I never got to bypass the ignition switch before

 

[Ed S.]

This is the "other" Ed, and my hand is healing up pretty well considering what happened to it. I'm back to playing piano at church, but the tendons are still very tight and stiff - it will take months (or longer) before I get anything close to full flexibility again.

I'm still very thankful to the Lord I still have the hand at all!

es

 

[souNdguy]

The longer you own it.. the more tricks you'll get to pull on it. Just the nature of the beast.

Soundguy

 

[Joe)NYC)]

Just another idea. When the tractor is on level ground your tank may have just enough gas that freeely flows to the carb and runs OK. But, when you go uphill for a bit, because of the angle, the gas may no longer be entering the carb and sputters gerting ready to die sooner or later. Chech how much gas you have in your tank.