checking for plug firing

[swhockett]

I have a '52 8N side mount distributor. I just replaced the 6v coil due to my over aggressive tightening of the negative post and breaking it. I now have the new coil installed (pretty proud of getting the old bracket off without busting something else). I have primary current to the distributor as I checked it with the multimeter but am not getting spark to the plugs (I used a spark tester and not an old plug and checked all 4). How do I check to know the points are opening properly or if I'm not getting current between the secondary wiring in the coil and the distributor? Should I purchase a tester with a light that will flash as the points open and close? Battery is good as it tests over 6volts on meter and has been on a tender.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Do you have battery voltage across the points when they are open? Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler gauge blade off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all. If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Insure that the rotor fits firmly on the shaft & that the little clip is there. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked & doesn't have carbon tracks. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. In fact, replace it temporarily w/ a plug wire. Next, remove the secondary coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, turn the key on & crank the engine while holding the end of the wire 1/4" from a rust & paint free spot on the engine. You should see & hear a nice blue/white spark. If not, you have a bad coil or condenser. Just put the old condenser back in to eliminate that as a possibility.

Post back w/ results; I'll be interested in what the problem was.
75 Tips

 

[swhockett]

I've determined the cam on the distributor shaft won't turn. All pulleys turn when I turn the engine over so it's not a slipping belt. I was going to pull the distributor and check it's drive gear. I pulled the #1 plug and turned the engine over trying to find TDC but got no change in compression on my thumb. Where do I go from here?

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 11:09:17 08/13/16) I've determined the cam on the distributor shaft won't turn. All pulleys turn when I turn the engine over so it's not a slipping belt. I was going to pull the distributor and check it's drive gear. I pulled the #1 plug and turned the engine over trying to find TDC but got no change in compression on my thumb. Where do I go from here?

ow did you turn the engine over? If you used the starter it should have blown your finger out of the hole.

Did the tractor run before you broke the coil?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

I'll follow up on the question R Gieger asked you & got no reply:

Was the tractor running before you broke the coil lug?
75 Tips

 

[swhockett]

No. It had sat for two years but as I remember it was running when I put it away. I did use the starter when I checked for compression.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Well, that's totally odd.

Never heard of a running tractor busting a distributor gear from sitting for 2 years.

Don't worry about finding TDC on #1 before you pull the distributor. You'll need to do that before you put it back though.

Are you 100% sure the distributor shaft isn't turning?

 

[swhockett]

I've watched the shaft and where points ride the cam. No movement regardless of trying to turn fan blade or turning it over with the starter button. I even placed an adjustable wrench on the flat spot where I removed the rotor. I didn't a lot of force though. So I should go ahead and takeout the distributor?

 

[Bruce(VA)]

Yep. Take it out.

 

[swhockett]

Came out with no problem. Gear appears fine and shaft turns easily. Looking in hole at what I assume is gear on the end of camshaft we turned the fan and there does not appear to be movement of that gear.

 

[Bruce(VA)]

Remove a valve cover. If the crank turns and the valves don't move, it's probably the timing gear.

And how that happened while sitting is odd.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

(quoted from post at 15:58:22 08/13/16) Remove a valve cover. If the crank turns and the valves don't move, it's probably the timing gear.

And how that happened while sitting is odd.

Nevermind.

You said the distributor gear on the cam wasnt moving. That means the cam isnt moving. Pull the timing gear cover.

 

[swhockett]

Thanks for all of the help. It will have to wait a couple of weeks though. I may be wrong about when I put it up about it running. I know for sure I didn't have it stop on me while it was running nor did I hear any unusual noises. Will post what I find next. Thanks again.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Yea, do post back w/ results.

 

[swhockett]

I just looked at the shop manual. Removing the
timing gear cover is beyond my capabilities w/o
acquiring some major shop tools. I will have to look
for a shop that works on old tractors.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Where are you located?

 

[swhockett]

Bloomington, Indiana...about 50 minutes south of Indianapolis

 

[swhockett]

If I take the cover off to view the timing gear what would I expect to find? Worn gear teeth? If engine is turning over the camshaft shouldn't have seized should it?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

You will likely find stripped teeth on the cam gear or find it free wheeling on the cam shaft.

I doubt your cam is seized.

 

[JMOR]

Easy to remove 2 bolts of governor & watch cam gear move.