Chevy 216 and 235

[Anonymous-0]

My engine code is 3835692 GM 10 X a 216, what is the difference on this and the 235 engines? I know dumb question. it goes in a 1952 chevy 2 ton dump. Would one be able to interchange the parts at all?
Thanks for any inputs.

 

[ShadetreeRet]

I don't know much about those engines, but much of the time the basic difference was the bore and/or stroke. If the stroke is different, you probably won't be able to mix any of the internal parts without switching the complete rotating assembly, as the pistons and rods will be different. Maybe a true Chevy fan will see this and be able to help.
Good luck.

 

[Phlash in OK]

All 216 engines have pressure oil to main bearing only, Dip system with babbitt rod bearings. Early 235 engines{before 53} were the same. 54 to 60's 235 had full oil pressure to replacable rod bearings. the best inline 6 Chevy in my opinion. They bolt to same bell housing and motor mounts. 235 is little longer. some move radiater forward or alter waterpump. Carb is larger on 235.

 

[Jerrycpp]

phlash in OK has it right. Replacing a 216 with a 235 is easy - the water pump can be modified by pushing the pulley hub farther onto the shaft, using a shorter pulley, and cutting off the extra shaft. That will allow the slightly longer 235 to fit with no other modifications. All electrical interchanges, as does the air filter. You'll gain some horsepower and a full pressure system. The 235 will peg your oil pressure gauge, but you can get a full pressure replacement from truckandcarshop dot com.

 

[Tall T]

I drive a 3/4 ton '51 aluminum chev van that I put a late '53 235 engine into. It still has 48 psi oil pressure even though i rebuilt it in 1975 so i'm happy about that.
I rebored it so it's actually 240.8 cu in now.
Anyway . . . I need to replace one of the rocker arms that is clacking because the valve stem has pocket a pocket in it.
I have 4 or 5 complete rocker arm shaft assemblies but I know one or two of them are from 216's.
Is there any difference you all know of before I start comparing and measuring them up.
I could just replace the offending arm I suppose or reface it.

Thanks,
Terry

 

[Brown David]

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary

 

[cleddy]

My engine code is 3835692 GM 10 X a 216, what is the difference on this and the 235 engines? I know dumb question. it goes in a 1952 chevy 2 ton dump. Would one be able to interchange the parts at all?
Thanks for any inputs.

I have a 235 Chev pickup engine with clutch and transmission the was suspose to run when removed from pickup. How hard will this be to go into a 1948 KB-5 International Farm truck. I was hoping for drive shaft modification and engine mounts. International straight flat head six is locked up from I assume years of rain pooling in some of the sparkplug recesses. Did not think that would be a easy fix?

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

Yes it can be done. I put a 95 ford 4.9 6 cylinder and a 5 speed in a 52 ford F2 with same modifications you mentioned. Don't know how much design work you would need for a clutch connection.

 

[Rich'sToys]

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary

B.D. nailed it. Anything you ever wanted to know about these engines can be found in the forums on this site.

 

[Jeff Ogden]

When putting a 1955 to 62 235 in where a 216 was there is a water pump adapter made to put a 54 on back water pump on the later 235,I have installed two of those adapters and really like them.

 

[David from Kansas]

My engine code is 3835692 GM 10 X a 216, what is the difference on this and the 235 engines? I know dumb question. it goes in a 1952 chevy 2 ton dump. Would one be able to interchange the parts at all?
Thanks for any inputs.

When I was a young teen, we had a '48 chevy 2 ton truck and dad finally got tired of changing out babbit rods so he went to the local auto salvage a got a 235 to put in it. I think he could replace the old babbit beater rods in the dark. It gave new life to the old truck. Later dad bought a new '55 chevy pick-up with a 235 which my brother got when dad passed away. He kept it for a few years. Now dad didn't believe in doing maintenance on vehicles until something was obviously wrong. I remember driving the old '55 chevy till the brakes were on metal-to-metal. He had a high school classmate whose family owned and operated the local IHC dealership so he traded for a like new IHC pickup with a V8, which proved to not be equal to the old '55 chevy which had a rough life on a small grain/livestock farm and was beat up and rusted out, but still ran good. I agree that the 235 was a very good, reliable engine.

 

[cleddy]

When I was a young teen, we had a '48 chevy 2 ton truck and dad finally got tired of changing out babbit rods so he went to the local auto salvage a got a 235 to put in it. I think he could replace the old babbit beater rods in the dark. It gave new life to the old truck. Later dad bought a new '55 chevy pick-up with a 235 which my brother got when dad passed away. He kept it for a few years. Now dad didn't believe in doing maintenance on vehicles until something was obviously wrong. I remember driving the old '55 chevy till the brakes were on metal-to-metal. He had a high school classmate whose family owned and operated the local IHC dealership so he traded for a like new IHC pickup with a V8, which proved to not be equal to the old '55 chevy which had a rough life on a small grain/livestock farm and was beat up and rusted out, but still ran good. I agree that the 235 was a very good, reliable engine.

I like your story. About like mine except we have a 1950 Chevy 2 ton truck that eventually got a "new" 235 short block. It still runs good today. Then Dad put a 1961 Chevy 235 engine in a pretty good 1960 Rambler that still runs good but car is crap. Looking back I wish I had the 1961 Chevy Impala back as it was not a bad looking car even parked in the trees. Someone offered me $250.00 wo/ an engine and it went away-can't save everything!!