Clutch issues

[Blaine K]

Hi all, I just finished rebuilding the motor on my 9n and replacing some clutch components. Before I rebuilt it was getting hard (impossible) to get into gear. I believed this was due to a worn out or contaminated clutch, possibly due to engine or tranny seals. These were replaced upon rebuilding, as well as a new clutch and throwout bearing. This tractor also has the Sherman transmission. Well I finally got it all bolted back together, and guess what. Got it started and it ran like a top with awesome oil and compression pressures. But when I went to test drive it the tranny is doing the same thing. I know to fix it I will have to split it apart. But what I don"t know is what the problem could possibly be. I did not replace the pressure plate, nor did I have the fly wheel turned down. Both looked good. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

 

[Tom N MS]

I"m sure you have tried adjusting the clutch rod..As I recall, the clutch lever should travel only about 3/4" before you feel it start to press on the throw out bearing.

 

[Blaine K]

Hey Tom, thanks for the reply. Ya ive tried that but no luck.

 

[wwildhorse2k]

I just did my overhaul and when I adjusted the clutch there was a slight pressure that the throwout bearing return springs give prior to actually moving the arms on the pressure plate. I would adjust it more until you feel throwout bearing hit the pressure plate. Other than that are you sure that the clutch plate is in the right way ( it has a long side and a short side at the hub) are the pressure plate fingers adjusted properly ? For what it costs it's a good Idea to replace the pressure plate when you replace the clutch.

 

[Blaine K]

I dont recall any adjustment on the pressure plate fingers ? Don't they just engage, disengage with the clutch throwout bearing force (thrust)?

 

[old]

Clutch disk in back wards?? Or did you maybe force the engine back in when you put it back in?? You are doing this with the foot peg on right??
If the clutch disk is in back wards it will not release. I have also seen where an engine is forced to fit and that in turn bent the clutch disk and a bent disk will not release. Also if I remember right there is a pin sort of thing on the clutch rod going into the tranny and the fork that holds the throw out bearing is pinned to that shaft and if the pin get worn or the fork get worn it can cause you problems. But like I said I can not remember for sure on that tractor with out going out to look at a 2N I have sitting with out and engine

 

[Blaine K]

Thanks for the reply, but like I said this clutch problem existed before I did the rebuild on the engine and replaced seals and clutch plate, as well as throwout bearing. The only thing that I did note when putting everything back together was that the fork that pushes the throwout bearing was slightly worn. I believe I have put it back together correctly, I tried to follow the ford shop manual as much as possible. If I disconnect the clutch foot pedal linkage and just move the small arm that actuates the clutch it does not seem to have very much play ?

 

[Anonymous-0]

A fast idle speed will do it.

 

[DollarBill]

[color=darkred:137fe9fb3a]I did not replace the pressure plate, nor did I have the fly wheel turned down.[/color:137fe9fb3a]

Since you've done the adjustment route with negligible results, I would suspect a worn or defective pressure plate. If you can't get it gear, something isn't releasing.

Since it's a pain to get to, I would also have the flywheel cleaned up.

Beware of cheap, offshore parts. I bought a clutch kit from a reputable American builder because we all have better things to do than splitting a tractor a second or a third time.

Keep us posted.

 

[wwildhorse2k]

If the pressure plate is worn or the fingers are worn the clutch wont dis-engage. 2" from the face of the fingers to the face of the fly wheel
discussion on clutch

 

[old]

You also said if I remember right you used the old pressure plate and if that is worn to much it could well be your problem. I learned years ago to replace the pressure plate when ever doing a clutch job because they do wear and that can cause problems like you have.

 

[Ultradog MN]

You never did learn not to put your darned parts & pieces pictures in the stuck & troubled section did you?
Ever read some of the comments that are posted on your pictures there?

 

[Blaine K]

Yeah, I did use the old pressure plate, I just ordered a new one, a new fork, and alignment tool. The pilot and throwout bearings were already repaced. I guess that this is a lesson in trying to pinch a penny at the wrong time. Is there any adjusment on the pressure plate at all or is it just dependent on the clutch release bearing pushing on the fingers of the pressure plate ?

 

[old]

The manual dose not talk about any other adjustment. Oh by the way when you put the pressure plate back on did you tighten one bolt at a time or did you slowly go cross ways. If you did them one at a time you warped the pressure plate and that could be your problem. You have to tight the bolts slowly going cross ways till they are all tight. One turn at a time

 

[Dell (WA)]

Blaine......ONLY clutch adjustment is EXTERNAL linkage. NO FINGERS!!! Remember, clutch disc is OFF-SET design and the LONG HUB faces tranny ......Dell

 

[Blaine K]

Thanks, Dell, I did replace the clutch in the proper orientation. The reason I mentioned it was that one of the earlier posts mentioned pressure plate set-up. There really is not much to these clutches other than alignment with either the input shaft or an alignment tool. I think it must be down to clearances. As I mentioned I did not have the flywheel faced, I did replace the ring gear though (now spotwelded), nor did I replace the pressure plate with a new one. But the clutch is new as well as bearings. I am going out to split it apart again now.

 

[Pauls9N]

Before you split things again, check the linkage for cracks. Have someone step on the pedal while you check the bottom side of all the linkage arms (engine off!).
I've seen this several times, you push on the pedal and it looks like everything moves just fine. However a crack on the linkage arm will open up just enough to keep the clutch from disengaging completely.
I'm a slow learner. The first time I ran into this, I split the tractor 5 times and replaced the whole clutch setup twice.