Clutch throwout movement

[Rock2001]

I bought a Super M that I've decided to rebuild. I have the engine separated now and looked at the clutch mechanism. The grease fitting for the throwout bearing goes off to the side, and I see that it is resting on the block (and not lined up with the hole to stick the grease gun into. The fitting is lower than the hole). I see that the fitting pipe is attached to the, I guess you'd say the fork. The fork rotates quite a bit each direction, which is how the fitting pipe drops down enough to rest on the block. I had done a rebuild on my H, and my recollection is a similar play in the fork, but that fitting went out the bottom so it didn't really matter. But with it going out the side, it seems like the play should be limited. I don't like the idea that the fitting is bouncing off the block.

Is this common? Is it worth continuing to delve into?
Thanks
Rock

 

[used red MN]

Hello Rock, welcome to YT. I have not seen the inside of an M clutch housing in person for quite some time. I’m going to say you will probably be able to find some “less worn” used parts to help fix your problem or a couple of properly placed braze welds applied and ground down as needed. Just for future reference the part it is dragging on is not the “block” that name refers to the main cast part of the engine. A more generic term for what you are referencing would be “casting” a more defining term would be “clutch housing”
Also, in the future when referring to items like this a photo or two is helpful when a lot of guys, myself included, have not had the clutch out or a tractor spilt in the last month or so. My tractor is a plain M.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Can you post a picture of what you are talking about?

 

[Janicholson]

The Image from the parts diagram show it facing down, but given that it is sideways on yours, I would either bend the pipe to match the hole, or make a shim from nylon or brass bushing to push down in the clutch release fork on the opposite side. A brass bushing that was made crescent shaped JB welded into place would difficult but effective, maybe a piece of copper water pipe cut as a shim. or nylon wire ties snugged up into the opening. The fork must allow the bearing pivot sleeve to travel up and down as the fork pushes it forward. Jim

 

[Rock2001]

Oooo, I like just bending the grease pipe. Maybe I'll try that. I'll get a pic so it is clear.

 

[D Slater]

I bought a Super M that I've decided to rebuild. I have the engine separated now and looked at the clutch mechanism. The grease fitting for the throwout bearing goes off to the side, and I see that it is resting on the block (and not lined up with the hole to stick the grease gun into. The fitting is lower than the hole). I see that the fitting pipe is attached to the, I guess you'd say the fork. The fork rotates quite a bit each direction, which is how the fitting pipe drops down enough to rest on the block. I had done a rebuild on my H, and my recollection is a similar play in the fork, but that fitting went out the bottom so it didn't really matter. But with it going out the side, it seems like the play should be limited. I don't like the idea that the fitting is bouncing off the block.

Is this common? Is it worth continuing to delve into?
Thanks
Rock

If release bearing sleeve or one of ears it mounts to in center housing is broke the bearing carrier shouldn't tilt a whole lot in the fork. Don't remember the grease fitting and pipe reaching out enough to contact housing or out into hole. If other parts look okay I also go for bending pipe.

 

[Rock2001]

Upon closer inspection, the pipe is very close to the housing ledge, but it is slightly off yet. The sounds that I thought was it hitting that ledge was actually it catching the ear on the other side. I don't know how much longer until it wears that ear enough to start bouncing on the ledge. I think just a slight bend is probably good enough, and hopefully will still unscrew if needed. It does feel like a weird design, since off to the side like that will more quickly wear out that ear than having it go out the bottom like my older H.

 

[caterpillar guy]

You will probably break the pipe since it is just plain water pipe when you try to bend it. The ears on the fork or the bearing housing are worn enough to let the fitting get lowered like that. IF you want to fix it without new bearing casting or fork just use a grease hose with a fitting on the end out the hole or use a bulkhead fitting to tighten in the hole than use either grease line or a short grease hose to connect the 2. We installed line similar to this description on a few of our tractors so we didn't have to get a wrench each time we greased them for the bottom cover plate. 806,856,1466 all have been fixed this way for several years now.

 

[used red MN]

I was going to mention that about the pipe. Always hard to know the skill level of new posters. If you grab that pipe a try to bend it up the threaded end will likely snap off. You will have to mark the direction and pull it out. Clamp it in a vise to attempt the bend.

 

[Janicholson]

I was going to mention that about the pipe. Always hard to know the skill level of new posters. If you grab that pipe a try to bend it up the threaded end will likely snap off. You will have to mark the direction and pull it out. Clamp it in a vise to attempt the bend.

Agree. The hose idea is also good if the hose has 2 or 3 inches of slack in it to allow motion. Jim