Coil Hot - Wrong 12v sent

[BarnyardEngineering]

Yeah, it should have felt refrigerated?

"Comments like yours are harmful to a newbies understanding, thus worse than not helpful."

 

[Jim.ME]

Well regardless of what JMOR says, the first solenoid you had wasn't "wrong." It simply had an additional terminal. "What do I do with the extra terminal?" would have cleared up any confusion. In this case the answer is, nothing. Leave it open.

I think there is a possibility the first solenoid (part # 105689) is wrong for his application using the original type of starter button. It appears that is a grounded base solenoid used on the 2000-6000 tractors among others. Those supplied power to the solenoid from the key switch and the other small terminal was to provide resistor wire bypass during starting from info I find. It is not an isolated/insulated base solenoid with the two small terminals being the connection points to provide power and ground for the solenoid coil. Some checking with an ohmmeter/continuity tester will answer the right or wrong question.

 

[used red MN]

Well regardless of what JMOR says, the first solenoid you had wasn't "wrong." It simply had an additional terminal. "What do I do with the extra terminal?" would have cleared up any confusion. In this case the answer is, nothing. Leave it open.

I have doubled check the wiring as it’s all new since I am rebuilding every single part of the tractor, including the engine. I will replace the start switch as well just to be sure.

I tested power to the start solenoid and got 12V, but didnt get anything on the other side of the starter solenoid going to the starter and hence no power to the starter, even with the key switched over.

The OP needs to clarify how he has his system set up. He said “I tested power to the solenoid and got 12 volts” is that at the small energizing terminal or the battery cable lug? You would hope there would be power at the opposite end of a battery cable which I presume is brand new. I don’t think any of us know if he has it set up to provide a ground or 12 volt power via an added push button to energize his solenoid. The only other clue we have is in reply 12 the OP says “this is not a conversion” which might indicate he is utilizing the gearshift start. That usually comes highly recommended here as it is a safety feature.

 

[JMOR]

Well regardless of what JMOR says, the first solenoid you had wasn't "wrong." It simply had an additional terminal. "What do I do with the extra terminal?" would have cleared up any confusion. In this case the answer is, nothing. Leave it open.

Unlike you, who does not know whether he has ckt 3 or ckt 4, this real vs barnyard engineer, didn’t jump to conclusions nor “rigg” some cludge. I expect that he has by now determined who to listen to.

 

[gatractorelli]

Replaced coil, battery, starter solenoid, push botton and it cranks no problem. Now seems my carb is an issue so making progress.

 

[Jim.ME]

Good to hear there is progress.

I am not sure exactly what you mean when you say "and it cranks no problem." I think you are saying the starter worked and it is running, is that correct? Or is it turning over with the starter, but not running?

Just to help avoid confusion in the future. Common terminology is:

Crank, Cranking: the engine is being turned over by the starter or a hand crank. It is not running.

Running: The engine is burning fuel and firing on its own without the assistance of the starter.

 

[gatractorelli]

Hi,


Well found the new distributor pins were not contacting the rotar so had no spark, had to reset the pins and ensure the gap was correct. The engine turns over but wasnt getting cranked or lack of staying cranked. Resolved the ignition issue but still have the staying cranked, replacing the carb today since the old was still installed after rebuild.

 

[olddavid]

Well found the new distributor pins were not contacting the rotar so had no spark, had to reset the pins and ensure the gap was correct.

Pins on the rotor? The rotor makes no contact (or shouldn't) with the distributor tabs except the center tab (pin) going to the coil.

 

[Jim.ME]

Hi,


Well found the new distributor pins were not contacting the rotar so had no spark, had to reset the pins and ensure the gap was correct. The engine turns over but wasnt getting cranked or lack of staying cranked. Resolved the ignition issue but still have the staying cranked, replacing the carb today since the old was still installed after rebuild.

Terminology makes a difference in how people understand you.

I think you meant the rubbing blocks on the points in the distributor were not making contact with the lobes on the distributor cam and you had to reset the gap on the points.

Next the engine was cranking/turning over with the starter but it was not starting or staying running. You have resolved the ignition issue however it still won't stay running and you are going to replace the carb. Is this correct?