Coil question

[D Lewis]

I have a 12 volt front distributor 8n. Just got a new coil for it. It reads 2.8 ohms across the coil (pigtail to top). If I read the wiring diagram for before 263844 that Sean TX so nicely provided I do not need an additional resistor (beyond resistor block) in the circuit. Is this correct.

Was going to pull the hood next weekend to replace a bad radiator, finish putting new wires on it (including sparky wires), points/condenser, and figured I would clean out the gas tank, clean screens since the hood was off. Anything else you guys would suggest?

Thanks,

Dave

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 01:24:08 10/25/08) I have a 12 volt front distributor 8n. Just got a new coil for it. It reads 2.8 ohms across the coil (pigtail to top). If I read the wiring diagram for before 263844 that Sean TX so nicely provided I do not need an additional resistor (beyond resistor block) in the circuit. Is this correct.

Was going to pull the hood next weekend to replace a bad radiator, finish putting new wires on it (including sparky wires), points/condenser, and figured I would clean out the gas tank, clean screens since the hood was off. Anything else you guys would suggest?

Thanks,

Dave

I would add a 8NE10306 1.0 ohm resistor into the mix as a little extra precaution,,, altho you are gonna B in the ball park with the OEM resistor just on the high side under high RPM

 

[Bruce (VA)]

If you're removing the hood to clean the radiator & gas tank & will replace the points & condenser while you're there, that's understandable. But, you don't need to pull the hood off to replace the points.

Check the distributor cap; make sure the #2 nipple isn't cracked. If it is, you will have the hood off a bit longer to replace the pivot pin!

Check the condition of the hoses & fan belt. Get new bumpers to go under the radiator unless you've recently replaced them. Clean the vent hole in the gas tank.

Add 11 1/2 quarts of 50/50 distilled water & anti-freeze to the radiator, not 12 quarts.
50 Tips

 

[D Lewis]

Bruce, not pulling the hood by choice, the radiator has to be replaced. I just got it about a month ago ($1800, good motor, rebuilt trans, 2 year old disk, usable brush hog and box blade - did I do ok?), and the guy said I would need to replace the radiator. It let go last weekend, it had goop all around the neck. Putting new hoses on too. Have to look at my manual, why does number 2 cracked nipple = bad pivot pin? Just figured while the hood was off was a good time to go through everything.

Hobo, thanks I have two extra resistors - have to see what size they are.

 

[Anonymous-0]

You might consider replacing your water pump if you are unsure of its age.

Steve

 

[souNdguy]

I think I'd try it with the ballast ressitor and the coil.. and check the amps.. if in good range.. go for it.. can always add one later if needed after test run.

soundguy

 

[D Lewis]

Sounds like a good idea. What range do you prefer? Looking for a new meter, old one is sort of shot. Like to find a dual volt/amp but have not seen one in long time.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Because the worn pivot pin lets the axle raise up far enough to hit the nipple.

$1800 for a good running tractor w/ only a bad radiator is a good price. Take the radiator to a shop for a rebuild even if it costs up to 25% more than a new one. If it can't be rebuilt, check back here for advice about radiator sources. Lots of Chinese junk out there these days.
50 Tips

 

[jon]

Looking for a new meter, old one is sort of shot. Like to find a dual volt/amp but have not seen one in long time.

Walmart sells the old style meter you need (analog?) for less than 10 bucks. I got a little larger one at Lowes for around $15. Easier on the eyes. The digitals don't do well with these old machines.

 

[souNdguy]

I like to see primary coil current in the 3-4 amp range for long coil and points life.

The balalst resistor may take as long as 5 minutes to stabilize it's resistance.. so I'd make my determination then, after warmup.. etc.. if close.. go for it.

soundguy