connecting rod caps

[Anonymous-0]

replacing worn rod bearings on my model 40. didn'y pay attention when removing connecting rod caps. do the caps have a specific position for reinstall or either way is ok? Also is 58ft-lbs the correct torque for the cap bolts?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Yes, not only position but on the right rod. They were bolted together and machined. They don't interchange. You may be able to see that on the wrong way the sides of the bore won't line up but will have a step. Pick the position with the smallest step. Another hint in some engines there something on the cap to splash oil.

Gerald J.

 

[cole in mo.]

Not sure on the tightness, but the rod and caps should me marked with a 1, and 2, if so, no problem, just match the #s. If they ain't marked, look at the upper and lower bearing for each rod, they should have matching scratches or marks from wear. To be sure you get them on the right rod you can see where the upper insert holding tang has made a mark on the rod cap, put them back on in the same order.

 

[PBrowning]

Let this lesson be learned well -- REPLICATE! Not only connecting rod parts but also valves and associated parts should be either labeled or placed in a rack so that they go back in the very same positions as before.

Now -- this isn't the end of the world, but you will have to be ever so careful to achieve the right amount of running clearance for each one! Be Blessed! (PatB)
JD H Restoration Site

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thank You for the info and your time I will let you know how the job ends up.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thank you!

 

[Mark G]

Thank You!

 

[Anonymous-0]

A standard test for some engines, is that the rod (oiled) should turn on the crank by its own weight with inserts in place. If not there's a problem. Cap on wrong or wrong cap will be sure to bind because there's only supposed to be .002" typical clearance from insert to crank.

Gerald J.

 

[d. coleman]

my "M" manual calls for dot or "pipp" on side of rod and cap to go to cam side of engine. also on main bearings there is a champher on one and other is squaired off. im fairly sure the "M" & 40 engine are in same family. good luck, d. coleman (48M & 51B)

 

[Bob Harvey]

So, are you saying you just did the rod bearings and didn't remove the pistons ?? If that is true then you better get a 'stick mirror' and find the rod cap markings, from then on it ain't rocket science.

 

[Anonymous-0]

look for the tab on the rod that holds the bearing if the rods are in correctly just line up the tabs on the rod and the cap they will be correct