conversion to power steering

[scott_h]

I have a Ford Jacobsen LGT125 (12.5HP) garden tractor. The steering is really sloppy and heavy. I would like to convert it to power steering. The wrecking yards won't help me without a model & part number. Can anybody tell me a make/model & part# for a hydraulic steering valve that would work? I don't care what make it is for as long as it is appropriate size for my little machine and the part is available in salvage yards. I have a machine shop & can adapt anything.

 

[Tom Arnold]

More often than not, there are multiple reasons why steering becomes difficult on tractors. If you think about it, the manufacturer wouldn't have released a machine such as the one you have, if it was hard to turn the steering wheel.

Putting on power steering isn't a solution. Correcting the real problems with your steering is the solution. Past owners have probably driven into things with one or both of the front wheels. Most tractors use a L-shaped piece of round rod that acts as the axle kingpin and the wheel spindle.

When someone rams the front tire into an immovable object, this kingpin/spindle causes the cast iron axle to twist, thus radically changing the alignment of the front end. This alone can cause hard steering.

Add in rusted rod ends on the tie rod and drag link, bad bushings on the steering sector and steering shaft along with the bent/twisted axle and you end up with what you are experiencing. What do you expect from a thirty-year old GT?

My advice is this. Get the parts book for your tractor and examine it carefully to determine which bearings/bushings in the steering system are replacable and then replace them. Install new rod ends everywhere. Check your front wheel bearings for play and replace them if they are sloppy. Your axle can be heated cherry red with the right torch end on an oxy/acet outfit and then carefully straightened. Allow the axle to cool as slowly as possible afterward.

Another trick is to unstall a set of thrust bearings on the bottom of the kingpins. You need four special high tensile steel flat washers and two radial needle thrust bearings. You can buy them from McMaster-Carr for not much money.

Change your front tires to tri-ribs. Those will make a huge difference when it comes to steering input from the operator.

Power steering requires a source of hydraulic oil under pressure. In other words, you would need to figure out where you could mount a power steering pump. Finding space to install that plus finding space to install the power steering valve plus adding a power steering cylinder to turn the wheels takes a lot of time and effort.

And none of that will change the fact that your current steering system is in bad need of repair.

 

[Anonymous-0]

John Deere 318, and 420, both use hydraulic power steering, the 400 used a different type of power steering. The 318's and 420's have the best type. Also Northern Tool offers a steering column with the valve as a unit. I have a JD 420 that steers great. Phil

 

[Tom Arnold]

What you did not mention is that the Deere tractors use a hydrostatic drive system that has an internal charge pump that can be tapped into to provide hydraulic pressure for the power steering. If the OP's has a hydro, then it may not be the type that can provide hydraulic power for a power steering system.

Secondly, those well-used steering units often go for $150.00 and up, on e-Bay and you still have to buy the steering cylinder plus hoses.

Adding power steering to any tractor is a major task and it shouldn't be entered into without have the proper knowledge needed to end up with a successful conversion. And that's aside from the costs involved.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Go to a combine salvage yard and get one of those units. They are much cheaper than the garden tractor units and virtually identical. You could prolly get the column, cylinder and hoses from the same combine if it hasn't already been cannibalized.

Plan B would be to get the power steering assist unit from an older ford light-duty van. you'll have to improvise mounting brackets and plumbing but it should add on to your existing steering system once you've got the steering system fixed up.

 

[Dave in Tx]

I have a bunch of those steering valves and cylinders also. Call anytime 325 642 7647
Price is very reasonable.
Dave

 

[Tom Arnold]

You have a bunch of "what" steering valves and cylinders? What are the valves off of? What is the stroke and diameter of the cylinder?

Oh.... and where will the OP find the hydraulic power on his tractor to run what you have to sell?

 

[Dave in Tx]

Valves are off commercial mowing equipment. /cylinders off of same. valves have different lengths of steering shafts. cylinders are of various lenghts. If OP doesn't have hydro trans, a simple power steering pump will run them. All of these units are true hydrostatic steering. I have probably 30 or 40 of these units. Steering shafts and steering wheel assemblys from 6" long to 24" long or so.

 

[Dave in Tx]

The OP said he has a machine shop and can adapt. I have put ps on a few units, and it is far easier than building a mechanical steer. A tiny hydraulic pump can be mounted several differnt ways. A little ingenuity goes a long way.

 

[Tom Arnold]

I don't disagree with your contention, however the question is one of whether the OP actually needs PS. As I said in my original post, putting PS on any tractor is NOT a solution for worn out steering parts, bent front axles or any of the other ills that come with thirty-plus years of use and abuse.

When his Ford LGT left the factory, the steering was light enough for any woman or ten-year old child to use. It is totally possible to restore the steering back to that condition and whether PS is desirable or not, the restoration should be done. Now if the OP posted that he was building a FEL to install on this LGT, then I would agree that having PS would be a bonus and likely essential when using the tractor in poor ground conditions.

Apparently, that isn't the case here and that's the crux of my objection to his request. There can be good reasons for PS on a GT but PS shouldn't be a solution for poor maintenance or the lack of understanding the true reason/s for harsh steering.

His unit does have a hydro but there is no guarantee that there are ports that can be tapped into to provide a source of hydraulic power for PS. Secondly, even if the ports are there, one would have to know how many GPM and at what pressure in order to decide whether any one of the PS pumps you have can be powered properly or not.

Yes.... the OP could likely figure out the mechanical side of the conversion to PS but if the hydraulic side isn't matched up properly, all he will end up with is butchered GT that may steer harder than what it did before. Adding PS is not something that should be entered into lightly nor blindly.