Corn stubble

Birdman

Member
Just wonderin how everyone deals with their corn stubble in a corn to beans rotation. I was thinking of mowing it then disking it...I don't have a no-till to go thru it so...
If I just disk it will that 7000 JD planter plant thru that much course trash or will my 8300 drill go thru it for that matter?
Whats the best way to get a workable seed bed?
Just curious how more experienced guys deal with it.
Thanks!
 
Don't know how many acres you are going to cover but it might be cheaper to rig up your 7000 with no till openers than disk. I no till with a 7000 and split my middles for 15" bean rows. I don't have many acres but it's far cheaper for me not to disk. A 15' wide 6 row planter pulls a lot easier than my 14' disk and one pass with my disk in corn stubble ain't gonna get much of seed bed.

Dave

Dave
 
I only need to cover 150 acres for the beans. They make no-tills for a 7000? My planter (if I buy it) will be a 12 row without fertilizer, I wonder if a TW30 would be enough hp to pull a 12 row with no-tills on it? That'd be sweet.

How do you split the middles, just move over enough with the next pass to split them with the planter you mean?
 
Where's a good source for the openers and trash whippers for the 7000? ANd who else besides Yetter makes them?

Gordo
 
John Deere ahd 2 systems for no til planters starting with the 7000. One was pretty flimsy and attached to the main frame, I think. But the other was very substantial and mounted to the row unit and was the most popular. Yetter made a heavy duty one also for the 7000. It is almost identical to the John Deere version but, of course, cheaper. I used to have a 7000 that had both Yetter and Deere no til coulters. Worked great. Be sure to put on the down pressure springs. With those on you can plant through anything.
 
In heavy corn residue I disc once in the fall and then disc with a rollng harrow right before I drill. If the stalks are lighter such as low yeilding or some of the conventional seeds I can disc once in the spring with the rolling harrow and that works for me. TW-30 should pull that by the way.
 
Easiest to split the middles is to move the hitch over 15 inches, use the same tracks.

--->Paul
 
I don't have trash wheels, just a not till cutter in front of the openers. Was that way when I bought it from first owner 3 years ago. Works good for me no tilling beans into grazed corn stuble. I would no till corn too if I had a tractor big enough to pull a NH3 bar. With the time I spend disking corn ground and the price diffrence in NH3 v. ESN or urea wouldn't take long to pay for one, just ain't found what I want at the same time I had funds handy.

Dave
 
If a TW30 won't pull a 12 row no till (even with spliters) you have one of two problems. You need to take the tractor back to who ever you bought it from OR you need to sow the ground down and put goats on it cause it's too steap for a cow to stand on.

Dave
 
Yetter, Martin, Dawn, Sunco. Sunco marketing.com Shoup sells Yetter. In southern MN, 507-236-1934 sells Yetter cheaper- Mine were $221 per row.
 
Hahaha, thats what I figured but since I've never pulled with a tw30 and never pulled no-till bigger than 10' I thought I'd better ask, lol.
I kinda figured based on the equipment I own that the 12 row with the TW30 would be a pretty good match but I didn't know what the no-till coulters would do to it.
 
I pull my 6 row 7000 with a 6700 over some pretty steap ground and have never had to go below 5th gear. Thats half the tractor and half the planter, and the first year I had it my back tires were one their last legs.

I have a buddy who used to pull a 16 row kinze with spliter units with a 4640 for years.

Dave
 
Thanks guys, good comments, all of them. Very interesting to hear all the different methods we all use. Seems like everyone is going to 15" rows. I know a couple guys here that are going back to drilling though for some reason. I guess the grass IS always greener on the otherside of the fence...or more appropriately....the beans are taller/thicker/heavier on the other side of the fence, lol.
What are you calling splitters on the planter to get the 15" rows??? Ok stupid question I know but I've no idea. Is it just bolt on planter units on the planter that split the 30" rows?
 
If you intend to use the 8300 it would have been better to make a pass with the disk in the fall and then a single pass with a field cultivator before drilling in the spring. Several of the newer field cultivators can go thru standing stalks in the spring but they are considerably more expensive and still no guarantee they wouldn't plug. A soil finisher is almost a sure bet to get thru standing stalks. I avoid spring disking, but did make a poor man's vertical tillage tool from a 30 ft JD 335 which I can now use. Two years ago I make a vertical tillage pass in the fall and then directly drilled in the spring. The fall pass sized the stalks and mixed enough soil to make them somewhat brittle in the spring, yet the ground wasn't uneven which is what usually happens when we disk. Before purchasing the Yetter coulter cart and JD 520 drill I was actively looking for a JD 7200 with 15 inch row units, wavy coulters and lift assist. Came close at a couple of auctions but no cigar. Knew several that had good success with this machine but decided to go bigger and bought 24 row units with splitters. So I would put coulters on the 7000 and expect it to plant well in standing stalks. Alternative with 30 inch rows would be to use trash wheels rather than coulters. Trash wheels are tough to use with 15 inch rows, unless making a second pass.
 
Yeah, I usually work all the ground in the fall, only problem is this fall was so wet here I was lucky to get thru harvest let alone work any ground...thus the corn stubble problem.
 
Go to tractorhouse dot com or some of the other websites like that and look at say 3600 kinze planters. Most of them have lets say 16 units on the back that are 30" a apart. Then they have 15 units on the front also 30" apart that run beween the back ones. You use the back ones for corn and all of them for beans to make 30 or 15" rows with one pass. Good luck.

I used kinze as an example cause that is what most folks around here use. Most of the makers have a simalar option now.

Dave
 
Paul, how do you move the hitch over without getting off and on the tractor? Do you plant the whole field and then go back over the same tracks with the hitch moved?
 
I have been spring discing corn stalks twice before beans for years. I have used a Jd 7000,IH 56 and IH 10 drill. I have a set of back tilting drag harrows to pull behind the drill.Another possibility is to roll or pack the field crossways after drilling to cover the seed.

Soybeans are more forgiving of your mistakes than corn but only to a point. The biggest issues I have had are making sure I am on the right mark. If I can get good stands with the machinery I have used you shouldn't have any problems. If the stalks refuse to break up a third pass with disc or cultivator might be needed but not likely.
 
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