counter balance tractor

[KenMcG]

I took my new grater blade off of the 8N with the Davis front end loader and put it on the other 8N to have easier manuverability grating the driveway. Now the one with the front end loader cannot move if you pick up some dirt. The rear wheels just spin with no weight on them. What is the easiest way to counter balance the front end loader? Can you make a frame to hold concrete blocks and where would you bolt it? I don't want to use the hydraulics for a counter balance because they are not that strong on this one?

 

[Zeusdog]

I'm quessing you've already filled the rear tires, if not it'll help. You might also put a box blade or other implement with a surface you can load up a little with blocks or such. the extra lenght out from the rears will compound the balance offset.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Ken........with carefull planing, you can make yer own counter-balance outts cut-off oil barrel and 11-hole drawbar stuck thru the sides near the bottom. This will put yer lower lift arms "full-down" and since you set yer drum-balance on couple of 4x4's or 6x6's, all ya haffta do is lift yer barrel and drive away and the arms will still be above the ground without having to keep yer PTO hydraulic pump pumpin' to keep barrel off'n ground. Simple, eh?

Now fill yer 1/2 barrel with 11-hole drawbar still in, with concrete, or scrap iron, or jugs of water. Simpler yet, eh?.

When done, set barrel on top of 4x4's or 6x6's (what ever you have handy) and un-clippie yer drawbar pins. You will loose the 11-hole drawbar iff'n you concrete it in, big deal, gitta NEW 11-hole drawbar.......Dell

 

[old]

Well another back blade would help. I keep my blade on my 841 plus have 6 suit case weights on the blade but I also move 2000lbs bales with the loader. Filling you tires with fluid would help a lot and is easy to do. I use wiper fluid in my tires because it will not rust the rims. If you need info on how to fill your tires send me an e-mail and I'll send you a page on how to do so.

 

[Upper Peninsula,MI.]

Dell made a very good sugestion. I use a barrel on my 9N to counter balance the front mounted snow plow. Took an approx. 16 gal barrel along with a piece of 1" rebar long enough to go through the barrel and fit into the lift arms on each side. Ground the ends of the rebar to 7/8" to fit into the lift arms. Drilled a hole near the end of the ends large enough to fit a pin through to hold it on the lift arms. Took a piece of 1/4 inch plate metal bent in a shape of a "U" and cut two slots near the top of the barrel high enough to connect with the top link. Drilled a 1" hole about one inch from the ends of the "U" to fit a 7/8" pin though to hold the adjustable top link. This "U" is about 1 ft long. Fit the "U" from the inside of the barrel though the slots. Then poured in about 5-6 bags of redi mix, keeping the "U" thing horizontal and the ends sticking out of the barrel far enough to accomadate the top link and pin. Let it set up over night and behold you have a back weight of about 310 lbs +. Simple and very cheap.Use a bigger barrel for more weight. My email is always open. Good luck. Ron

 

[souNdguy]

As the others said.. an old barrel and drawbar and some iron for a toplink connection.

Here's a pic of one I made for my 660 and an identical one for my 850. They are each out of old cattle feed tubs.. plus some concrete and an old drawbar.. i bolted mine to the bottom to give more ground clearance.. I used 8" carriage bolts and a couple washers and nuts so the bolts are up in the concrete with 'studs' sticking out the bottom to bolt the drawbar on.. A couple pieces of flat stock, drilled for a toplink pin make the toplink connection.. I think it cost me about 15$ to make this...

soundguy

 

[Anonymous-0]

FWIW....I use my bush hog as a counter weight.