Counter weight options for loader tractor

Massey_165

Member
What’s some counter weight options for my loader tractor? I’ve got an IH 464 with a loader, it has rear wheel weights, the rear tires are not loaded and I don’t plan on loading them. I can’t hardly pick anything up without the back tires spinning out.
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My MF202 usually has a roll over box blade on the back or sometimes my Woods M5 mower so I don't have any problems. Of course my back tires are loaded. What do you have against loading your tires?
 
55 gallon barrel full of concrete weights about 1100 pounds. filled with water the barrel is about 500 pounds. Filled with gravel or rocks the weight will be between water and concrete, depending on the size of the rocks or gravel.

I made rack for my 3 point that holds a barrel. I use it for weed spray, counter weight, etc.

For me personally, I do not need a barrel full of concrete sitting around. I prefer to fill the barrel with water or rocks, depending on what I need to do.

Just some options
 
My MF202 usually has a roll over box blade on the back or sometimes my Woods M5 mower so I don't have any problems. Of course my back tires are loaded. What do you have against loading your tires?
I’m not against it, just don’t want calcium in it to make it rust, and I know the other options can get expensive.
 
What’s some counter weight options for my loader tractor? I’ve got an IH 464 with a loader, it has rear wheel weights, the rear tires are not loaded and I don’t plan on loading them. I can’t hardly pick anything up without the back tires spinning out.
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A sweptback front axle on any loader tractor shortens the wheelbase and pulls a lot of weight off the rear axle.

Three point hitch implements like a back blade or snowblower are great counterweights, but can make a loader tractor longer and clumsy to maneuver in tight spaces.

Cast iron weights cost over $1 a pound used. Fluid weight is much cheaper but is limited by tire size. It takes at least ten years and more like twenty years of exposure for CaCl2 to rust out a modern tractor rim, you can easily replace rims several times compared to the cost of cast iron. Careful cleanup after a leak and use of inner tubes can greatly extend the life of rims.

Four wheel drive or a bigger tractor with a longer wheelbase will have better traction.

Tire chains can add traction on slick surfaces but can cause a lot of damage to concrete and driveways if the tractor is too light to get traction.
 
What’s some counter weight options for my loader tractor? I’ve got an IH 464 with a loader, it has rear wheel weights, the rear tires are not loaded and I don’t plan on loading them. I can’t hardly pick anything up without the back tires spinning out.
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If it has a 3 point then put something like a back blade on the 3 point and then put some suit case weights on the blade. That is how my Ford 841S is set up and I have 6 85lbs suit case weights on the blade and most of the time I have no problem lifting thing with the loader
 
Agree with others. Buy the biggest, heaviest 3 point blade you can handle. (or whatever implement might help a bit with what you're doing with the tractor)
 
I’m not against it, just don’t want calcium in it to make it rust, and I know the other options can get expensive.
Use good tubes, change the valve stems on a regular basis, and address leaks immediately, and there won't be any rust.

"Expensive" but do you really know how much it's going to cost? All I hear is "expensive" but I've never seen an actual price. Calcium Chloride solution is virtually free, so anything else is going to be "expensive." It's a one-time expense. Buy once, cry once.

Beyond that, anything heavy, hung on the 3pt hitch. Got some suitcase weights? Spend $40 on a 3pt drawbar, and hang 'em. Got some chunks of scrap iron? Same deal.

Personally I don't like the idea of carrying the back blade or bush hog as counterweight. Really hampers your maneuverability. You have to be careful not to wipe out fences, back into walls, etc..
 
What’s some counter weight options for my loader tractor? I’ve got an IH 464 with a loader, it has rear wheel weights, the rear tires are not loaded and I don’t plan on loading them. I can’t hardly pick anything up without the back tires spinning out.
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That's a BIG bucket on a relatively light (5000 lbs ) 50 HP tractor, and it's WAY out ahead of the front wheels. What are you trying to lift with it?
 
As mentioned, that is a pretty large bucket for the distance it is in front of the front axle on that tractor. If you are using clamp on forks or a spear for round bales the weight transfer from the rear will be even worse than just using the bucket.

With proper maintenance there is nothing wrong with loaded tires, calcium or other ballast fluid, as has been posted.

Other than getting and using suitcase weights as mentioned, I would rather have a concrete filled weight box, or barrel, with a receiver hitch built into it than an implement hanging off the back. They are compact (inside the rear tires width wise) and less likely to catch something due to the overhang, rear, and/or sides, especially in tight areas.
 
Calcium chloride, contrary to suburban myth has never rusted out a tractor rim while it has been in use. It takes determination and plenty of work to keep airing up a leaking tire instead of repairing the leak, to make the wheel rust. In my youth FWA tractors were very rare. the common set-up was a 55 gal drum with rocks, chains etc. on the lift. 40 years ago my buddy made a weight using a 30 gal barrel, a lower link drawbar and rocks and a bag of mortar mix. It was cheap, and it was quick and easy to pick up and drop, and never in the way.
 
What’s some counter weight options for my loader tractor? I’ve got an IH 464 with a loader, it has rear wheel weights, the rear tires are not loaded and I don’t plan on loading them. I can’t hardly pick anything up without the back tires spinning out.
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My Kubota L5030 has water and antifreeze in rear tires.
I leave the Bush Hog 5 foot mower on it when I am using the loader.
 
Loaded tires are a PIA to fix leaks on compared to dry. I prefer to add weight ght otherwise. Iron weights, depends where you are. I can buy rear wheel weights for little more than scrap if I want something that is not the popular IH or JD styles. Local salvage yard has plenty. Suitcase weights are expensive. What else can you salvage from a scrap yard or market place.

For any style of concrete off the 3pt, if you have a locally owned plant and are patient, you can likely get it filled for free. They often have leftovers come back in the truck. Some plants pour waste blocks, others just dump it.
 
We have a 574 with similar loader .Our rear tires are loaded and then a full set of weights out even with the outside of the tire and rim.. then a set on the inside of probably another 500 so probably the tire rim and weights come in at around 1200 per side with about 2400 total weight we lift and drive with our bucket full of dirt /gravel and thew bucket is bigger than yours. Look at snow buckets for the size of ours. It is about waist high and 2 feet deep front to back and 7 feet wide or close to it. IT is as wide as the tire on the outside. If you don't load the tires you will not be lifting much without spinning all thew time. OR you will have to add an awful lot of weight to the rear like close to a ton. You could stack rear weights up on a tube for a center till you have about 1500-2000on there at 150 per piece. unless you go spend the big bucks for the 500poundersa at close to 3>00 per pound. or more. Have not priced them. Just what I saw on an auction. Adding to much weight to the rear axle will stick out so you catch things with the weights. We've had our loader since 1972 with loaded tires from the beginning and the same rims with little rust on them.And on the third set of tires now.
 
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