cracked engine block

[rjfinke]

I have restored a TO-20 and it had an issue of water in the oil when I started, but I thought if I put new gaskets and what not on it it would eliminate or slow down the problem. Unfortunately I found a small hairline crack in the bottom of the block, with everything back together now I still get the milky oil, but it still takes a few days to happen, so the crack must be my problem. I was wondering what anyone thought of the idea I came up with to solve this with out great expenses. So I was wondering if it would be possible to install a petcock valve into the block/engine to drain moisture or water after/before use. I am imagining a concept similar to like John Deere has on its tractors like the D, but I do not know if this idea will work. Any ideas or input on this subject or idea would be helpful.

 

[Stephen Atkins]

I dont know,we ran a TE20 for about ten years and a TO30 for 50 years and never cracked a block.

steveormary

 

[Don Hooks*]

Try block seal. A petcock might make you feel better and keep most water out of the upper engine and bearings but any water will dissolve (and remove) the additives in the oil and you will have to change it more often. Sounds like the leak is small enough for sealer to work.

 

[Jim in OH]

It is a common problem.. more so with the Z-129 than the Z-120.. but very common.. In your case, you might consider some of the modern block sealers.. some here have reported success for small leaks.. I had a TO-30 that I sealed from the inside... or find a good block (very rare) or have yours repaired (expensive)...

 

[Don Hooks*]

well, that was irritating. I replied and nothing happened so I replied again several minutes later and then, magically, both replies showed up. Haven"t had that happen before.

 

[rjfinke]

I have put Bars Leak in it and it still seems to happen. Are there any other product recommendations on what to use or how to go about it? Also besides having to change the oil more often does anyone see any issues with putting a valve in to drain the water or have an idea where the best place to put it would be? If I do not get a sealer to work I will put the valve in and was thinking up by the front somewhere.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Block Sealer must be used exactly as the directions, no exceptions

 

[two5735s]

where do you get block sealer? Would it work for a head gasket with a small leak?

 

[Richard L]

I am sure NAPA would have it & probably most auto stores.

 

[Richard L]

I am sure most auto parts stores would have it. Would it work???? I personally have not had a reason to try it so I would have to read the label to see what it says but my guess would be not for head gasket repair.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have used " Aluma Seal " several times over the years when in a bind for time . It worked this past winter on a Dodge intake that was leaking antifreeze . The manifold had been off of it and when replaced (they use silicon for a gasket ), several months later , the silicon leaked . The cooling system is under 16 # pressure , and here it is , 6 months later , and no leaks .
Aluma Seal is a aluminum powder in a plastic cylinder .
Good luck

 

[Tony in Mass.]

I'm confused here- there is a drain on the bottom of the water jacket, and a drain for oil at the bottom- where else would you have one? If you only have one crack, and it is that small, and you can see it- and reach it- clean it off good and smear some JB weld on it, or even some silicon gasket sealer 'might' help, if you have the oilpan off already, they cost peanuts and it can't hurt. BTW, if you live in a cool damp climate, milky oil in a tractor can be a fact of life, as long as it clears up after running a while.

 

[Fred Martin]

I have had Ferguson blocks that were cracked at the bottom...and I stripped the block and vee'd the cracks out and slow welded them...peening where I could. The ones running up into the bore are the ones that are touchy. They have to be prepared the same way and then you have to take a die grinder and grind them flush...and thats where they get sticky. You cannot see in there where you're grinding...so you have to have an educated finger and feel them in because the o-ring can't leak. I've done this personally and added a couple of containers of Barrs Stop Leak...and 10 or 12 years later still in good shape. I have used this engine for tough pulling such as plowing too...maybe I'm just lucky, huh? ohfred

 

[john[mo]]

when i got my te20 home from purchasing it i found water in the oil after a few times of running the engine. i could hear water dripping into the oil pan after shutting it off. i figured spending ten dollars on engine block/head gasket sealer first would be lot easier and cheaper than tearing down the engine. my engine ran great and compression was good in all four cylinders.when i used the block/head gasket sealer it was the older type that required all antifreeze be flushed from the cooling system. took two days to do the job according to the instructions. the new formula block/head gasket sealers eliminates the need for flushing,draining,and drying out of the cooling system. it appears nobody here has any experience with block /head gasket sealer. i had none before this. it has been three years since i used on my te20 with not a drop of coolant in my oil. if it leaks again i will use the newer formula if it starts again. the new formula you put it in according to the instructions and leave it in. what have you got to lose? a little time and a small amount of money. i do not know the exact brand name of the newer ones but READ the label and make sure you do not need to flush the cooling system. also change the engine oil after this because anti freeze does nasty stuff to bearings.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Bought a TE-20. New tires, good metal. PO stated "Cracked Block" evident when he pulled the head to replace the gasket. So his fix was to run the machine 10 minutes at a time with no water in the block...I brought it home, added water and watched it puke out the water pump also. Got a can, followed the directions, even placed carbboard in front of the rad to get the engine up to operating temp for 20 minutes per the can. Let it sit two or three days drying out and filled it up three years ago. Few 10 degree days this winter and last and still no problem.
K&N Block Sealer.
You heard it here first.

 

[john[mo]]

k&n block sealer will work but the newest formulas of block sealer eliminate all that extra work.