cub cadet no spark

bought a cub 100 in original condition. Some of it was in a box because guy was going to restore but didn't get around to it. He claimed it ran perfect 10 years ago when he disassembled it. I put back together now no spark. I have 12 volts at coil, positive is ran to switch, neg to condenser and points. I've tried a few coils and condensers. What am I overlooking. No spark at all.
 
Check that + term on coil connected to 12v from ign sw,if polarity reversed on coil can cause a no spark condition,try replaceing condenser,same may be leaking/shorted internally,check that wire from points to coil not nicked/shorted to block,with coil lead disconnected from points,connect an ohmmeter/powered test light across points,with plug removed rotate eng by hand & confirm points opening/closeing & you get a meter reading/light thru same when closed,if points not opening/closeing check that point push pin in block,same may have come out/lost over time or if eng disassembled.
 
Make sure the wires on the points and condenser
aren't touching any place that will ground them.
Use your multi-meter set on ohms to check for continuity in the wire from the coil to your points. You may have a bad connection or broken wire. Hal
 
Well, I have used tester to see that the + side of coil when grounded to frame have 12 volt with key on. How would I check to see if there is 12 volts going out?
 
I took ign. switch out and bypassed it, still have the same problem. I'm guessing it has to be around coil or points. The points move good but no spark there or at plug. Still not sure.
 
I have a '47 Cadillac I'm restoring. Wasn't running when I got it...had "no spark"...coil had spark in...but no spark exiting. Changed coil, same thing. I pulled distributor to check points...they at 1st looked good...but closer examination showed a grey film on the contacts...filed them shiny with small file... Caddy started right up...just saying...check those points real close...it might help.
 
Could you elaberate alittle on how to chech the ohm continuaty from the coil to the points. I have ran new wires and put on new connectors. Maybe one is grounded where it connects? Not sure.I have 12 volts when putting tester red to + and black to frame.If I put testere red to + and black to - it doesnt show voltage. How do I check to see if 12 volts is going out of coil? Thanks
 
Thanks, I will look again. I pulled the points off a bench motor that was newer and ran when pulled out and put them on. I will shine them up somemore and see. Thanks
 
If you have 12v on + terminal of coil with ign sw on,disconnect condenser & point wire from - side of coil,connect voltmeter/12v test light between - terminal & eng block/chassis you should read voltage on meter or get a light,if not,IF coil a kohler coil,either internal resistor or coil primary open,if a standard 12v ign coil,primary open(bad)
 
Ok, guys here is the lastest. I have 12 volts on both sides of the coil. No spark. The points look good. I have them gapped around .020. The wire to the condensor and to the points looks good. no breaks. No spark. No spark. Not spark. That is where I am at now. Please continue to give me any thoughts. I'll try anything at this point. Thanks.
 
You say you have 12v on both sides of the coil.
Ground the lead going into the points does the points side of the coil voltage drop to near zero? If not you have a bad wire or the battery is not properly grounded to the engine.

When the points are closed you should get 12V on the batt side of the coil and near zero on the points side of the coil.
 
To gap the points, turn the crank until the points are as far open as they will go. Then set the gap at .020. Lots of guys have set the gap at .020 when the points are as close together as they go and wonder why they have no spark. Don't ask how I know this....
 
Funny stuff, I have fixed the problem and you are correct sir. I had the gap at .020 at the most closed spot instead of the most opened. I appreciate everyone's help.
 
With the points open that means your rubbing block on your points should be sitting on the high point when the cam opens them. With your ignition switch in the on position You should have battery voltage on both terminals on your coil. Since you have new wires from the coil to the points that should be ok.. Rotate the engine until the points close then take some 320 wet or dry and rub those points then see if the engine will start. Hal
 
I bought a non-running John Deere 210 from a guy last spring that was just rusty left-over parts. That one had a shorted out wire from the coil to the points and the points were set wrong.

A couple days later the guy emailed me and told me he couldn't get his tractor started - the one he kept. After I talked him through the point setting ritual he was fine.
 
The first and last time I did that I was 10 and the motor was a B%S 4hp. You only need that lesson once. LMAO
 
Thanks Steve, for that valuable tip, I not ever knew that.. but I did always try to make sure that after I set the gap it did actually open

Thanks again!

~Will
 
It wasn't a jab. I was just reminded that things some of us take for granted are not always so. Everybody can't know everything and I bet you take lots of things for granted that I know nothing about.
 
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