Cub Governor Question

[ChrisFromCLE]

I am reviving my 1950 Cub after 20 years of storage. I rebuilt the carb and it runs well but I have only 50% throttle response. From low I can move the throttle handle to about half way on the quadrant before the governor kicks in and the engine revs up. I tried to adjust the governor linkage but find that there is some slop. It is NOT socket where the rod and key enter. It is in the arm itself. See the circled part on the attached photo (illustration only - not my tractor). The arm rests fully counter clockwise against spring. There is no tension from the spring in this position. The slop comes from the arm needing to rotate clockwise about 12 degrees in order to tension the spring. The spring does not look to be stretched or bent. Adjusting the rod length to take up this slack makes the throttle completely unresponsive.

Should the arm be under spring tension when at rest (low throttle position)? Is there something out of adjustment to take up this slop?

I would appreciate your insight.

Thanks,
Chris from CLE

 

[560Dennis]

This link should help you .

Carburetor-to-Governor Adjustment

After you install the sediment bowl and carburetor (refer to those in the How To Forum), it’s time to adjust the linkage from the carburetor to the governor. Set the operator’s control to half throttle. Remove the pin holding the yoke to the rockshaft arm. Squirt the threaded portion with...

farmallcub.com

Be nice to see inside the unit and the weight pins condition.
Good
I would remove the circle spring and remove the wear in the levers , all I can see , not the whole story just a detail I would not pass up correctly.
You do have lost motion in the governor control rod to the carburetor somewhere. Find and correct for your tractor. See YT parts under Cub .
Working on Farmall C governor , I eliminated all lost motion . From the hand governor control lever all the way to the throttle shaft in the carburetor. Be surprised what that will do to the performance of your tractor .put your hat on tight when you get it fixed .

 

[grandpa Love]

That big spring has probably never been swapped out....it's $10. If your tractor bogs down going up hill or the motor revs way up going down hill you need a new spring. Your other issues are adjustments on the rod going to the carb.

 

[ChrisFromCLE]

Thanks for the responses but maybe I did not explain clearly enough. I did adjust the rod per the manual directions. The issue is that the arm that runs from the governor across the front of the tractor and connects to the carb activating rod has about 12 degrees of play in it. If I adjust all of the play out by either shortening lengthening the arm I get no throttle response. In the middle, I get response but for about half of the quadrant. The slop/play is not coming from the key way socket. It is coming from the gorvernor itself. It is as if the actuator can rotate too far counter clockwise allowing the spring to hang loose. What happens inside the governor to push the actuator clockwise? Is there an adjustment that will move the actuator’s starting point clockwise to move it against the spring? Is there supposed to be 12 degrees of dead roation?

Hope this helps to clarify my issue.

Thanks,
Chris from CLE

 

[560Dennis]

Thanks for the responses but maybe I did not explain clearly enough. I did adjust the rod per the manual directions. The issue is that the arm that runs from the governor across the front of the tractor and connects to the carb activating rod has about 12 degrees of play in it. If I adjust all of the play out by either shortening lengthening the arm I get no throttle response. In the middle, I get response but for about half of the quadrant. The slop/play is not coming from the key way socket. It is coming from the gorvernor itself. It is as if the actuator can rotate too far counter clockwise allowing the spring to hang loose. What happens inside the governor to push the actuator clockwise? Is there an adjustment that will move the actuator’s starting point clockwise to move it against the spring? Is there supposed to be 12 degrees of dead roation?

Hope this helps to clarify my issue.

Thanks,
Chris from CLE

Here a link to start looking for the 12 degree of lost motion

Inspection & repair of a Governor

This post is to help with the disassembly, inspection, repair, and re-assembly of a Cub governor. In the parts book, group 12, page 18 is the diagram, part numbers, and description. I have tried to use the same verbage as the parts book, in order to avoid confusion. The numbers in ( ) are the...

farmallcub.com

There are many videos on your tube that show the corrections also , up to you now to find the source of that example
Broken pins ,sheared keys ,sloppy keys and keyways broken or rusted springs in bores , governor bending or bent control rod , loose or worn levers

 

[grandpa Love]

Cub governor looks very similar inside. Main difference is the big spring is on the outside of a cub.

 

[grandpa Love]

Thanks for the responses but maybe I did not explain clearly enough. I did adjust the rod per the manual directions. The issue is that the arm that runs from the governor across the front of the tractor and connects to the carb activating rod has about 12 degrees of play in it. If I adjust all of the play out by either shortening lengthening the arm I get no throttle response. In the middle, I get response but for about half of the quadrant. The slop/play is not coming from the key way socket. It is coming from the gorvernor itself. It is as if the actuator can rotate too far counter clockwise allowing the spring to hang loose. What happens inside the governor to push the actuator clockwise? Is there an adjustment that will move the actuator’s starting point clockwise to move it against the spring? Is there supposed to be 12 degrees of dead roation?

Hope this helps to clarify my issue.

Thanks,
Chris from CLE

Time to pull the governor off and inspect everything. It's not too difficult. Feel free to call,text or message me. We have pulled the governors off of 75+ Cubs, serviced them and reinstalled. Something is worn and it should be easy to see once you get it on a work bench. I'm always happy to talk Farmall !

 

[Jim Becker]

I'm going to back up here and point out what may be obvious and already done. The arm where the top end of the spring connects pivots on a shaft. The arm and shaft can be seen at the top of your picture, where the cotter pin is. That arm needs to pivot freely on the shaft. If it does not, it needs to be freed up. You may need to use penetrating oil. Be careful to not break the lever. It isn't exactly fragile, but they can be broken if you are not careful. This part sticking is vastly more likely than anything wrong inside the governor. If this isn't it, the problem is likely inside the governor, the thrust bearing or a fork-shaped part that contacts the bearing.