Cultivator Model #'s

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Can anyone tell me what the John Deere model number/numbers are for a full set of cultivators for a 1945 (early styled) B? Are the cultivators for the late styled (47-52)B's the same?
 
AA-280 would be the model # for the cultivators for the early styled tractors. They have the round tool bars instead of square. Don"t know if they work on the late styled tractors or not.
 
I know the cultivators on my 43B are the B220 series cultivators. I have seen a 39B with the B220 series too. These are the square tube bolt on type, not the drive in which are the 200 series cultivators. The 290 series are for unstyled tractors.

Will
 
I have original sales brochures showing the 200 series cultivators (non-quick-tach) also being demonstrated on pan seat "B",s. Don,t know what year they changed cultivators but the tractors didn't change much so should fit the pre-stamped frame years. ('46 or earlier)
 
Not to get into a pissing match, but I wonder what was different from the 200 series (non-quick-tach) and my 220 series (non-quick-tach) is??? I thought the 200 were all drive in (quick-tach)???
 
THE 200 SERIES ROW CROP CULTIVATORS WILL FIT MODELS 50, 60, 70, A, B, AND G TRACTORS. YOU COULD GET THE CULTIVATORS WITH OR WITHOUT THE QUIK-TATCH FRAMES. WITH THE RIGHT ADAPTERS YOU CAN MOUNT THEM ON UNSTYLED TRACTORS AND THE BW, AW, AND GW TRACTORS. OPERATORS MANUAL OMN81154K4 HAS EVERYTHING IN IT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE 200 SERIES CULTIVATOR
 
Type and placement of shanks and type of lift all fit into the differences in the 200 series.
 
Well ya, There were a whole bunch of different set ups for the 220 cultivators. There was the 221, 222, 223, 225, 226, 227, 228 and the 229 All with different shovels and set ups, but why have a 200 series and a 220 series cultivators. There has to be a difference in them.
 
I have recently spent countless hours on the internet, tractor boneyard, and talking with people about cultivators for my early 47 A. I had located several different sets for different years and models and was needing information to which was correct for my tractor and would fit because when I bought them, I couldn't return them if they didn't fit.

My conclusions: The drive in type (quik-attach) ABG200 series were actually for the late model A & B tractors (The boneyard had 3 sets of them). The 39 to mid 1947 tractors all used the other type of ABG200 series that have the hooks that bolt to the nose of the tractor (the boneyard had 3 sets of them). The unstyled tractors used 2 adapter rings that would go around the round front pedestal. The 290 series cultivators (for unstyled tractors) had a large plate with a different bolting pattern on the front frames (The boneyard had one set of them). They also had pipe frames instead of square and had hand crank adjustments also. As far as the 200 series, everyone is correct. It all depends on the type of shank shovels you have and also the amount of plows on the rear set.

I purchased one of the sets 2 weeks ago. The set I bought has square frames, 4 hook bars on front for mounting, and rear section has 3 shanks. I used a copy of the ABG200 series owner's manual to identify if they were correct or would fit. Seems the only thing you really have to pay attention to is the frame bolt pattern (6"). Later that week, I purchased an original owner's manual from 1947 for the cultivators. Luck has it, my tractor was an early 47 and so was the manual. All the photos matched exactly to what I had bought. Lucky me.

I do have a question though: On the front frames, there is a 1" thick bar for each shank that connects the front frame (called a rig link in manual). This is used when the front frame bracket rotates in raising the shanks. (Part #27231A) Clear as mud right? I measured the bolt pattern (or pivot location) on this 1" thick x 3" approx. wide bar on 3 different sets of cultivators. The ones I bought measure 15" center to center. On the other 2 sets it measure 19" center to center. This was the only difference I could find between them. All brackets, rods, shanks, frames, and everything else looked identical to each other. Why were these plates 4" shorter? Maybe for a B instead of an A? I think my cultivators are a 202 or 212 model based on the 8 front spring trips and 3 rear spring trip shanks

If you need a copy of either the ABG200 series (late model tractor cultivators) or a copy of my manual for the mid 40's, just send an email. [email protected] Most of the information is the same, but the ABG200 manual is geared more toward the drive in type of cultivators and the tractor pictures are of late models. The other manual has mid 40's style tractors that are used. Both manuals show the different model #s and configurations.
 
New question

If I have the power lift on my model A, do I need to install the depth control levers that go on each side of the seat? I am not going to plow with it, just show it. Plus, the levers I have are missing a few pieces and the handles are all bent up. Or, should I find another assembly and install it to make it look complete. I would think it would make it hard to get on and off the tractor with them in the way.
 
I will tell you this, I was missing one of the upper truss rods, the one that bolts to the front pedestal. Deere didn't have one of my part numbers I needed, so I got the part for a 200 series cultivator. It was only $20 and I wanted the hook that bolted onto the pedestal to make it look right. The rod was too long and not threaded far enough up the rod to fit my BB220 cultivators. So I threaded it further and cut off the extra thread. The rods are stamped with a number. If any of yours are stamped 24220a, 24221a, 24222a, or 24223a they are for 220 cultivators.
 
My book says those rods will fit from A, B, & G. Good luck finding those numbers on my rods. They are so rusted you can't tell anything. My rods are bent almost in a U shape. I am going to fabricate new ones and cut the c-hook ends off and weld them to new rods.

I will go take a photo of my cultivators tonight and post it on here tomorrow. Maybe you all can help me also.
 
I have the operators manuals for the ABG cultivators and the 50 60 ABG cultivators, both say 200 series and I have the parts manual for the MT cultivators and the planter op manual and parts manuals. All in emailable PDF form if any of yall need it.
I got a full drive in set on my MT and another full set in the barn that goes with my late A that is bolt on and 2 full sets of planter attachments. I also got a full set I bought last year and put on my 60, they are drive in and are a little too small and don’t fit right on the 60 but I managed to get them on. I can’t wait to start showing it this year. Eventually I want to get a full set of cultivators on one tractor and a full set of planters on the other and take the pair to shows.
My buddy has 2 full bolt on sets that came with his slant dash B and slant dash A. There are many differences in all 5 or 6 sets we have.
I also got a set of rotary hoe attachments from the late johns48b that I put on my 60’s cultivators. It seems there is an endless sea of attachmites

Here are some examples of mine;

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I don't know if you actually "need" them but they must be on there for a complete set-up. They allowed you to push the power trol lever all the way ahead and forget about it as you entered the rows so you could concentrate on staying on the row instead of re-setting the depth each time. It would only go in until it hit the pre-set stops that the levers controled. It would be a pain to cultivate without them.
 
Forgot to tell you , I have an original A/B/G-200 manual print date 1 / 50 for $22 inc shipping if you are interested.E-mail open.
 
Thanks for the offer, but Alabamafrog has emailed me an electronic copy of the abg200 series manual already (one with the green cover). I also have just bought an original manual from 1947 for the mid 40's tractor cultivators (manual cover is white). They seem to be the same manual for the most part.

Anybody have any pics of the depth control lever set up. Mine is missing parts and I can't make heads or tails how it is suppose to mount. I know it mounts to the axle studs, but not sure how the pipe that goes across comes into play. The manual isn't very clear.
 
Here are a few photos I went out and took. I haven't messed with them since I bought them. A few things are bent, but otherwise most of it is there. I need one pipe that goes down the side of the tractor, depth control lever parts, and fabricate 4 new mounting rods for the front.

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Notice the connection rods are all broken off except for 1. The others are laying on the main framework

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The below picture is the bar that I previously asked about the length. Mine are the straight type not the bent style.

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Anybody give me any insight about these depth control levers. I think one of the mounting curved angle pieces are missing. I only have it on one side. I need help on mounting it. Does the cross pipe go above or below the tractor floorboard? I guess when I go to mount it, it will only go one way. I just wanted a heads up. Also, if you have any photos of yours, please share them. I would love to see how this assembly is all hooked up.

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On the one rod that is still attached, I can almost see the part number up by the hook. It is deeply stamped. Here is a picture of my BB220 cultivators. I wasn't really taking a picture of the cultivators, but they made it into the picture anyways.
cultivators
 
Well, here is my manual for my 220 series cultivators. It is dated 1-43 So, what is different with the 200 to the 220 series????
manual
 
I read through your manual, and it is very similar to the one I have. The only differences I can tell between yours and mine is the bar I had questioned the length on in picture 6 of my post. Mine is straight and yours is bent to the inside. The plate where this attaches is also different. Yours has a bend to the outside halfway on the plate and mine are straight. That whole area looks like it is made different that mine. Look at your plow photo just below the end of plow depth control lever handle. That is the area I am talking about. It appears your set is designed to kick the inside shanks further in.

Thanks for posting the manual. I understand how the depth control attaches now (page 8 & 9 of your manual). I still wonder if it will work on my tractor. I will probably have to remove my powerlift pedals as it would interfere (see photo). The lift lever that is shown is an add-on piece you could buy from Deere if you didn't like stepping on the pedals. So I have been told. Pay no attention to the draw bar. I know, it is from a late model A. I am working on replacing that when I find one for a reasonable price. The rockshaft mounts in the photo are ones I already had. My new cultivators also came with a set. I will probably remove the ones on the tractor and use the new set I got.

Nice plow. I am working on buying one very similar to that except it has an original JD cylinder mounted on it. It is also on steel wheels. Everything on it looks perfect, except for rust of course. Not sure which model it is though. I will look into that if the guy ever sells it to me.

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Nice JD G. I always wanted one of those. I also noticed you like railroads. I actually design track layouts. We built the mainline bypass track going into the Joliet power station and also the rail going into the Romeoville, IL power plant just across the canal from Joliet. At our terminal we bring trains inside a 10,000 ft loop and then attach a remote system to it. It's pretty cool. It is like playing with a life size model railroad. I spent several hours in ahh when we did it. I ran the train around the loop several times just like a kid would do with the scale version.
 
The levers you have that are like the ones posted on page 8 and 9 in my manual is for hand lift only. You can only put that set on without powerlift, as you know, it will hit the peddles. You need the setup like the set on page 6 and 7 in my manual. Where are you??? I am just north of Chicago and go junkyard hunting and can find the powerlift setup that you need.

That is a nice A you have. My 43A is in a hundred pieces right now. One day. One day.
 
Thanks. Always wanted a G. Finally got one and love it. Except for filling the gas tank. Too many hobbies. Sounds like a fun job. What company do you work for???
 
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