Cutting formica ( laminate)

[Stuart]

I am trying to cut formica. It says to use a heavy duty scissors but it keeps split out from my cut. Can you use a table or jig saw with a really fine blade? I am trying to put new laminate on a pool table and need some that will go around a very tight corner. Not sure where else to turn to on the web, so I thought I would try here.Thanks for the help.

 

[Dick H in NY]

You can use a fine tooth blade running backwards in the table saw. Run the blade only as high as necessary.Hold the laminate very steady so as it don't chip the edges.HTH

 

[Stuart]

What about cutting curves?

 

[MartyinVa]

Can you use a router with a cam on the bottom of the blade to follow the pattern?

 

[Stuart]

Can you explain what that is in more detail.
Thank you

 

[Gchase24]

Use a metal scribe or sharp ice pick. Turn it over and repeat strokes and it will cut through. They also make a formica trim bits for a router.It has a bearing that allows you to trim the edge after you apply the formica .

 

[Anonymous-0]

There is a hand tool that will cut Formica like you want to do. I have one hanging in my garage. I've probably had it for40 years and haven't used it in the last 30 years. It has handles about 5 inches long with 2 stationary blades on the outside and one movable blade between them. The blades are only about 1" long. The pivot pin is adjustable to get the outside blades really close to the inside blades. Comes with 3 different shaped blades. One for straight cuts one for cutting curves and another on for something else. Works quite well for Formica. Sorry, can't remember what it's called. I'll try to remember to take a look at it tomorrow.

 

[Christopher S.]

I build cabinets in the evenings and have done quite a few formica countertops. I cut the majority of my formica right on the table saw (Nice side up). I usually put an 80 tooth blade on but even my 24tooth rip blade will do a satisfactory job. With the table saw just make sure that when you feed it through the blade the teeth comming up out the table don't snag the formica. Now when I make the endcap formica I use a bandsaw to rough out the piece (just a typical blade and nice side up). Formica is honestly easy to cut. I have made some relatively tight radiuss by heating the formica with a heat gun. I'd practice on a scrap piece first, if you get it tooo hot it can blister.

 

[danofarming]

The hand cutter that you need cuts a small sliver out of the formica, rather than cutting like scissors.

 

[Ken Combs]

Easy way: go to any store that sells it and get a carbide tipped, hand held scribe. Kinda like a utility knife with the blade at an angle.

From the back side, scribe along a straight edge, a couple of passes is enough. Keep the straight edge in place, hold firmly with hand or knee (I do mine on the floor) and pullup on the side opposite the straight edge. It'll break cleanly on the scribe.

I stopped using a saw years ago. Scribe and snap is lots faster, easier and less opportunity for mistakes.

Cut oversize, glue down and trim with a router and ball bearing guided bit. Clean bit often to remove the glue buildup so the bearing doesn't freeze up and burn the edge. Curves are best done with the bit alone. But, can be done with a jigsaw and really fine toothed blade.

 

[Matt in Mich]

I used a table saw. Ran a strip of tape where the cut would be to stop the formica from chipping. Worked good.

 

[Stephen Newell]

First if you are trying to bend the laminate around a small radius you need to purchase post forming laminate. It's the kind of laminate that counter shops make the roll front counters. You can just cut Formica on a table saw but if you are cutting a large sheet you may need to rig some tables in front and beside the saw to keep it flat while you are cutting it. Bit dangerous but raise the blade all the way up for large sheets because laminate will tend to ride over the blade. You don't have to have a real fine tooth blade. 10" 40 tooth will be just fine. It sounds like you are trying to make the laminate to the exact finished width before you put it on. Normally laminate is cut oversized, applied and then trimmed with a router. To make if a finished width cut it about 3/8" wider than you need. Then set up a laminate trimmer or router with a trim bit and a straight edge and mill the edges smooth and to size. You could also run the laminate through a jointer but it's real hard on the blades. Assuming you already know how to use contact cement, when you stick it get someone to help you hold the laminate and lay one straight edge up to the corner and go ahead and roll it down. Then take a hair dryer or heat gun and heat the laminate where you are going to make the radius. With a heat gun be careful not to blister the laminate. With the laminate heated use a block of wood and work the laminate around the corner. Then you just continue to the next corner. If for some reason the laminate doesn't completely lay down on the corner you can fill the holiday with bondo. Any air behind the laminate will be easily broken.

 

[Steven-Id]

We generally used a table saw and rough cut the pieces. I have not done it myself but I have seen it done with a common electric shear like you use for cutting metal. You ask about cutting curves? You would do best to leave it larger than needed and trim it with a router. If you have an inside corner as in a 90* tight. Leave the corner rounded and not file it square. I understand that this helps keep it from cracking in the corner. If you need to scribe it to the walls you can mark it and sand it with a belt sander to fit. When you get ready to glue it down put wooden sticks or dowels down so that it doesn't touch until in place because contact cement is just what it says. Get it where it goes then pull one of the sticks out in the center and work both ways being careful of air bubbles. Have fun.


Steven

 

[MFPoor]

Here's the best way to rough cut laminate. Doesn't require power tools....Doesn't discriminate between types of laminate. Easy to use.
Available where you buy laminates

 

[MartyinVa]

Read what S Newell had to say then this is the bit I was talking about.
I didn't look but youtube has a lot of "how to do its" might look there for tips.

The link is just 1 I chose to show the bit, don't know nothin bout the site.
Router bit

 

[Anonymous-0]

I won't say which method discussed, is best, but I watched a crew put fronts on our old cabinets, they used scribe and break, followed by router with pilot bearing. In corners, where you can't get the router, they used a hand file, to get all the trimming done.

 

[Dick L]

I have always put down 2 inch wide masking tape, marked my line on the tape 1/8" wider than I needed, cut with a saber saw with a metal blade to keep from chipping and used a router after it was glued down to finish it flush

 

[Anonymous-0]

Well I remembered to look at the tool I have today.
It is a Bernz Cutter. If you google it you can find a picture of it in Popular Science Magazine 1969.

 

[Dave Sherburne NY]

Here it is
Bernz Cutter

 

[jackinok]

we always cut it with a fine toothed saw,glued it down ,and then used a router with a straight bit and roller on it to trim to proper shape.You can simply hold it between two boards top and bottom on each side of where you wish to cut and use your router to cut it. Boards are simply to stop it from vibrating and cracking.I have even scored it with a utility knife and snapped it like you would glass.I didnt know anyone still used formica any more.it was the latest and greatest for replacing tiled countertops when it came out.Now folks want their countertops retiled!guess they have forgotten how bad they were to mold,or they have grout nowdays that can stand more moisture.I remember when we did ours,mom was so proud of that new countertop she was inviting all the neighbor ladies over to see it.lasted about two weeks then she forgot and sat a hot pan on it!it had that brown mark for years..dad finally retired and redid it again.Went back with tile, so mom couldnt burn it!

 

[Rusty wheel]

Score the finished side with a glass cutter. Score it 1/4" outside the finish dimension and finish with a router. Once you score it you could cut it with a circular saw. It shouldn't chip beyond the score. If it's thin enough you can just break it after it's scored.

 

[Stephen Newell]

Normally you just glue the laminate on square and route the excess off with a trim bit. I'm picturing the top like the top of a counter top. Be sure that the cutting edge of the router bit barely cuts through the laminate. If you set it too deep and the edge is out of square the router bit can cut into the finish of the edge. Actually laminate is usually trimmed twice, once with a straight cut bit and again with another bit that's on a 22 or 25 degree angle bevil bit which is cut much closer. Then the final finish is done with a file, filing down strokes only. If you wish to precut the curve probably the safest way for you to cut it is to make a pattern out of a piece of plywood and clamp it to the laminate and cut it with a router with a trim bit. You can also cut it with a sabre saw with a down cutting blade.

I managed to use a bad word, Mill B. File describing what kind of file to use and when I went back the picture doubled.

 

[Tony Griffey]

Yes you can use a Jig saw to cut formica And this is how most Carpenters cut it anyway.

Determine which surfaces you’re going to cover with formica. Countertops and backsplashes are the most common ones.

formica
Get your formica, then lay it down on the work surface. Sketch the pattern you want to cut, as well as cutouts for other inlays and sinks.
Get a sabre saw, preferably one with a fine-tooth blade. Cut the laminate, at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch bigger than the pattern you sketched.
Put the contact adhesive at the back of the formica, as well as the surface being covered.
Set the laminate sheet in position, then, using a J-roller, apply pressure to the sheet’s top, ensuring a good bond.
Apply the formica to the backsplashes and trim using the same method.
Get a router with a laminate cutting bit and trim the edges of the Formica fitting the surface adequately.
When you’re done, use a flat file to smooth the rough spots and sharp edges.

 

[Stuart]

Where do I get post forming laminate? How thin is it? Can I get it in sheets?

 

[Stephen Newell]

Any lumber company that sells laminate should be able to special order the post forming laminate. It is 1/32" thick like verticle surface laminate. Depending on brand, it should be available in sheets in widths 3',4'and 5' and lengths 8',10'and 12'. For bending purposes Wilsonart is probably the best and Formica brand the worst. Formica is harder and more brittle.

I wish you would send me a picture of what you are doing. I'm using a lot of imagination giving you advise and afraid I'm not giving the correct advise. There are limits on how tight a radius you can bend with laminate without special equipment. Like the roll front counter top, I know how it's done but there is no way in my shop with the equipment I have could I do it.

 

[Stuart]

I am putting new laminate on a valley pool table. Mainly the corners where it has to be cut to final dimensions before applying and cannot be routered off like on a counter top. Thank you for all the help you have been great. I know if I could get the thin laminate I could do it, just finding it is a little hard.

 

[Stephen Newell]

If this is any resemblance to what you are doing, I wouldn’t attempt it. This radius is formed in a machine similar to a roll front counter top. Unless they've made the laminate more flexible in recent years doing it by hand it will break where I've circled. The machine that makes the radius like that is like a mold that presses the laminate to the wood in that shape. I'm not sure what adhesive they use today. At one time they used resin glue which works similar to carpenters glue and send it all into an oven to force dry it. Contact cement won't hold that much stress.

 

[Stuart]

I believe I can get it to work if I can get thin laminate. I need the stuff you were talking about.
The stuff I removed was super thin and contact cement would hold it. Thanks for the help

 

[Stuart]

No I am doing the corners on the sides.

 

[Stephen Newell]

The corners on this table are very doable. Standard laminate work fine on that. It's when you get below a 3" radius it gets sticky.

 

[Stuart]

Can you tell me more about the wilsonart laminate.What is the thickness of the thinnest laminate I can get??? I need it to around the legs, they are a box shape with tight corners. Thank you for all your help

 

[Stephen Newell]

Regardless of brand standard laminate is 1/16" thick. Then there is a grade called verticle surface laminate that is 1/32" thick. The hardness of standard and verticle surface is the same, it's just the 1/32" laminate won't take the abuse that 1/16" laminate would. They call it verticle surface laminate because it's used mostly for walls and such that don't get the abuse a counter would. Now the post forming laminate is dilibertly made softer and more flexible than the other grades just because it is designed for the roll front counter tops. It is also 1/32" thick. Then it's my understanding after the laminate is put on a counter top and fired in a oven it develops the hardness of verticle surface laminate. When I was forman of a commercial fixture shop we almost never purchased post forming laminate. We did all radius work with standard or verticle surface laminate. Usually the customer would pick a color based on their decore so we ended up have to use most all brands of laminate. When we did a lot of radius work with formica brand we could count of breaking a lot of it and having to strip it off and redo it. I'm talking about a 2" radius. Doing the same work with Wilsonart we rarely broke any. It was just more plyable. It's been 14 years now since I've worked that much laminate but I don't think it's changed any. From time to time I've made counter tops in my shop but today everybody wants granite.

Another note: If you have a particular spot that you just keep breaking the laminate and you need it to be thinner you can lay the laminate face down and grind the thickness down with a belt sander. Laminate doesn't sand very easy so this should be used as a last resort.

 

[Stephen Newell]

If you havn't taken it all off by now it will help if you put lacquer thinner in a squirt bottle and flush the thinner behind the laminate. This will re-wet the contact cement so it will come off in a complete sheet. This way you can use the old sheet as a pattern.