D1000 NH baler plunger help

[Brad_bb]

I bought 2 D1000 balers from farmer I've been working with the last few years baling with him. Now he's working for me and I bought the balers last year. One is working, the other he bought but never tried running it, so we'll play with that one after we get 1st cutting done.

Last year on 2nd cutting we had a knife come loose somehow and the plunger crashed into it and it bend up one of the 1 sections of the plunger and pulled some of the smaller knives off. It's fixable, but I've got to get the plunger out to do the repairs. This is my first time working on the machine myself and the farmer is laid up right now after just getting knee surgery. He'd never removed a plunger either.
Well it looks pretty simple, I got the top cover off and moved the plunger to front dead center. There are oiler lines going to the two crank arm pins of the plunger. After I get the bracket bolt out, do I just pry the hose out? I'm thinking it's probably attached to a nipple? I just don't want to damage the hose. Once I remove those two oiler lines, I'm assuming that I need to remove the two bolts from each crank arm, so that it comes apart like a piston rod cap? I'll wedge the plunger in place when I do this so it doesn't roll back. Then remove the bearing rollers so that it will lift out. I'm thinking I'll chain around the forward rectangular tube to lift it. Will it just rotate as you lift it? A small portion of the rear of the plunger is still 3/4 or so under plunger housing structure, so I'm assuming a little rotation and it should clear it? Has anyone on here done it? thanks, Brad

 

[Brad_bb]

Here's a better look at the pin that connects the crank arm to the plunger.

It doesn't look like the hose is supposed to come out of there? Anyone familiar with the tube in a pin like that?

One one side of the pin has a set screw. If I remove the pin, I'm afraid there won't be room to get the plunger out because you have to slide the plunger back to clear the crank arm end. It almost looks like I need to remove the crank arm bolts (rod end caps), and then remove the pin, but it doesn't say that in the service manual.

This post was edited by Brad_bb on 05/04/2022 at 01:47 pm.

 

[paul]

I think Sv Cummins has one of those, but hes been a little busy the past week?

Neighbor got one last year, but Ive only seen it from a distance.

Paul

 

[Brad_bb]

Although the service manual instructions for removing the plunger are very short, I discovered that they need to be read many times and very carefully.

I learned that it's a wire in sheathing going to the pin. It does not need to be removed, but rather both ends of the crank arms need to have the bolts removed and the arms removed from the machine. It read saying to remove the crank arm bolts being careful not to lose the shims at location L of figure 39. That made me think I only needed to remove one end. Studying figure 39 more carefully I realized that location L is at the front end, not the plunger end. It was actually saying to remove ALL the crank arm bolts and be careful not to lose the shims at location L.

So that changes things in that the pin does not need to be removed and what I need to do is take the wire harness that connects to the pins off of the baler back moving it to the plunger to remove it with the plunger. Again, the plunger is removed out the top of the baler on this machine, unlike small balers that take the plunger out via the bale chamber. I'll tackle it again tomorrow, but I'll say it really hard getting at the bolts on these crank arms.