D17 qwestions

Hello -

I"m new to the forum. I just kind of inherited a Series 1 D17. It"s in kind of rough shape, but it runs okay and everything seems to work. It has a trip bucket with single acting cylinders, a scraper blade on the back, and also came with a 7" snowblower. I picked up a 5" Ford bush hog last week. The blower has a 3 point conversion thingy as well.
The tractor sat outside for 2 years, so it has some water issues. I drained the tank, cleaned the carb and put in a carb kit. I drained the hyd oil (front plug) and put in hyd / trans oil. I drained the trans oil (back plug?) and put in 80/90 EP. Changed the engine oil and put on a new Fram C159 filter. Engine smokes a bit, but seems okay.
Biggest problem is the foot clutch is stuck. I hooked it to a stump last night and bumped the hand clutch a bit, just spun the wheels. So I put it in 3 gear and bumped the hand clutch while holding the foot clutch in. No luck, it just groaned.
Any ideas?
Most likely it has rusted to the flywheel. Theres a few thing you can try to fix it that may or may not work. I would drive it around a good bit with some sort of load on it. The brush hog would work well. Keep your foot on the clutch pedal and go brush hog it will probably pop loose if you do that long enough. You can also tie the pedal down for a few days and that may also help. You can also try spraying brake cleaner on the clutch but you will have to pull the starter off to do that. If you can turn the engine over when your spraying it so as to get the whole clutch sprayed.
Hobby farm
Thanks, I will try the brush hog method first. I can see the ring gear thru some holes in the top of the bell housing - could I spray the clutch from there with a tube/nozzle?

The clutch is the biggest issue, but there are lots of little things to do - put headlights on it, replace the ignition switch (I use a screwdriver to start it now), fix the taillights, add a work light/backup light.

Also, I'm trying to finger out how to release the drawbar. The scraper blade is hooked into the drawbar thingy, but I can't figger out howta unhook it. There is a lever on the RH side floor board behind the brake release, but it doesn't move. It seems to be connect to the drawbar, but I can't get it to do anything.
And what the helms is the traction booster lever for? I'm really scratching my head over that one. I have a shop manual that came with the tractor, but it doesn't tell you the simple things. I've ordered an operator's manual - I'm hoping it will explain some things like the drawbar, traction control, how much trans fluid, etc.

..look a bit below your post for the WD45 Traction Booster topic on 8-25-08
D17 will be similar in function.

You're on the right track for getting the "Snap-Coupler" released. Evidently it's rusted or bound up,...so just get some penetrating oil on the lever, work it back and forth to get it freed up, then do the same with the pivoting hook down inside the bell to get the blade out and the drawbar in.
Thanks for your help and advice. I will oil it up tonite and give it a try. I have to get the scraper blade off so I can put the bush hog on and do some mowing tonite.
I think I understand the traction booster thingy now, I had a good look at it last nite. It must need a bit of adjustment as when I put it up to the top notches, the bucket lifts (hyd accessory port directed to the bucket). I have the shop manual so I'll look at the adjustments.
She still smokes a bit and seems to be using a lot of oil. The poor thing sat outside for 2 years so it is a mass of rust. You can't really tell what color the loader is/was, it is solid rust now. I'll keep pecking away at it. I am putting up a pole building in Nov, so I can keep it inside and out of the MN winter. I look forward to moving snow with the 7' Lorenz snowblower.

Just so you understand; the Traction Booster is meant for weight transfer using pull-type implements; it works especially well with a mounted or semi-mounted plow.
A/C also made a disc to make use of the Traction Booster via a specially-designed hitch using a large "king pin" allowing conventional turning, yet keeping a rigid vertical connection. The hitch then, was the key to transferring the weight when using the disc.

There is no need (or any gain) of using the TB for anything else, so leave the lever in the down position. At the extreme top notches, the TB tends to act like an ordinary hydraulic valve and thus moves the bucket, but you're not actually gaining anything.
Last nite I got the drawbar release oiled up and free. I hooked on the brush hog and ran that around the field while holding down the foot clutch. No luck releasing the clutch.
So I started looking around the clutch housing and found an access port on the bottom with a kind of spring loaded latch fingers. I pulled it off and looked in the housing and................didn't see anything! It is chock a block full of something oily and kind of fibrous looking stuff. So I figured it must be the world's largest mouse nest. I started pulling this stuff out with a screwdriver, fingers, whatever I could reach in with. I got a lot of it out, but there is still a ton left in there I cannot reach.
Could this be blocking the clutch?
I'm thinking hot soapy water to rinse out the whole housing. Would that hurt anything? I could spray in brakleen after to help dry it out.
Whaddya think?



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