Dad's 2N

[Kevin Godshall]

Not sure why my post doesn't float to the front when I post on it, but here is an update on Dad's 2N that won't start:

(Previously, troubleshot wiring and got spark to plugs, but still not starting off, although very close).

OK, finally got out of the woodshop and back over to Dad's to tackle his "non starting" issue again.

Installed a new heavy braided grounding strap and a new heavy cable from the starter switch to the starter. Scrubbed and secured all the connections. Rolled her over a few times, and the increase in revolutions was noticeable right off the bat.

I pulled the plugs and tested each cylinder with a compression tester. 1,2, and 4 showed about 85. Cylinder 3 was only about 15 (ugh). My assumption, (chime in if I'm wrong here) is I'm either looking at a broken valve spring, a broken valve or a bent/broken push rod.

I set about removing the valve cover (i.e. removed the wiring tube on top, drained and removed the radiator hoses, removed the intake/exhaust manifold and removed the oil filter). Next, I took off all 18 nuts from the top.

Now......on my TO30, the cover lifted right off. I tried everything I could, but I could not budge this cover. I tapped all around it with a hammer. I tried to pry it up with a screwdriver. I tried to cut the gasket material with a utility knife (it was a whitish gasket, is this right?). I cussed and swore at it. Nothing worked. At best I got it up about 1/32 of an inch on the battery side. Is there a trick to doing this?

Thanks for all the input so far. Please continue to help me thru this process. I appreciate all the comments and help.

 

[Anonymous-0]

A lotta fella's would simply remove the spark plug in the weak cylinder and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinder. Let sit for a day or two and try compresson test again. Perhaps just a stuck valve.

I would have done this before taking things apart. Now that you have things opened up, report back and let us know what you have found.

The valve cover on my 9N is right behind the carburetor side on the engine.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

The "grounding strap" should go from the positive post of the battery to the frame. It's a positive ground system.

It does not have push rods. It's a flathead.

The two valve covers are on the side of the engine, behind the manifold, held on by one nut on each. It's a flathead engine.

What you have just done is removed the head, not the valve cover. It's a flathead.

Now that you've gone this far, you should go ahead & get the head off of it because you will need to replace the gasket. Start w/ a BF hammer & a block of wood.

And, before you go any further, you might want to check out tip # 39.
50 Tips

 

[Dell (WA)]

Kevin.......as YTSupport reported last nite (about 1700) many of the afternoon posts were mucked-up and he had to restart YT programs. Therefore your question was UNANSWERABLE.

You do know yer Dads 2N engine is a FLATHEAD don't you???

Ford compression specs is 90psi minimum (dry). Many will start and run on 80psi, but 15psi is probably stuck valve or burned exhaust. In ether case, you'll haffta remove the cylinderhead.

Heres a BIG TIP fer ya, stuff some soft 1/4" rope down enny sparkie hole and crank yer starter motor. The piston will compress rope and LIFT the cylinderhead and NOT HURT nuttin'. Isn't that amazing??? .......respectfully, Dell

 

[Kevin Godshall]

Gulp......... I'm not much of a mechanic. My knowledge of what goes on under neath a piece of metal is limited to what I have already done (my TO30 or read somewhere).

Dad has some reprints of the manuals, but does not have the Service Manual for his 2N like I do for my Fergie.

Dad is going to use WD40 over the next few days to try to soften up the rust around the studs a bit, and then we will try to rope trick.

Thanks again to all for the help and input. Will report back as news comes available.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Kevin......WD-40 is NOT a loosen-oil. There are "better" spray products on the auto-parts shelf. "Kroil" is one brand name. ($10, cheap) Go shopping fer yer Dad.......Dell

 

[Kevin Godshall]

Double gulp......... will do. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Kevin Godshall]

Back again for an update, some advice, and whatever scolding and tongue lashing I'm due for this time........

Knowing now that I'm working on a flathead........ I pulled off the side covers and inspected the valves and springs. All looked OK. Rolled her over and each one was moving up and down.

Moved to the process of removing the "cylinder head". Stuffed a lot more rope into that little hole than I thought would every fit and sure enough lifted it up about 1/16th of an inch. Worked all around until it was free.

To my untrained eyes, everything looks OK and seems to be working as needed. Valves are lifting and closing, pistons moving up and down. Lots of crude needs to be cleaned up but don't see anything obstructing or obviously out of sorts.

Since there is a large amount of blowback thru the carb during startup attempts, I am guessing that the intake valve on #3 must not be seating properly. I am also assuming that I am dealing with original parts here. So... do I buy a new valve kit and install all new? Do I take the valves out and have them ground? Is there something else I should be looking at or testing?

I was really hoping to find a broken spring or a stuck valve, but I'm at a loss now of what to look at or what to try.

Thanks for the help.

 

[jon]

Double gulp......... will do. Thanks for the advice.

I've heard good things about Kroil but haven't tried it yet.
No idea what's in it but PB Blaster is some good stuff.