Day 3

[Lanse]

Was un-eventful. It hit me at 6:15 this morning that i would safely bet i was the only one in my class awake at the time, LOL. Got er' primed today, she looks good. Will have to get more primer and finish the job. In a week or so i MAY paint it, depending if the forcast changes. Ive been trying to think of a name for her, and have been calling her "The Monster" but my mom calls her the monstrocity

Anyway, some PB blaster on the brake levers has them almost moving all the way back and forth, 3 days ago one wouldnt budge and one would, barely. Tomorrow im planning to remove the kero and try some ATF in all cylenders, on olds advice. Worked her over good today with the hand crank, had to resist the temptation to use the 9lb hammer on the crank, and i then put it in 3rd and rocked it back and forth by hand, no news. I also jacked up the front end and put grease into all the zerks that would take it, and what should i do about the zerks that wont take grease?? I will jack it up further (diddnt go high enough, have to put some more boards under it)and turn the wheel back and forth to work it in. The steering seems really rough, any way to loosten it up some?? Possiby some gear oil in the steering box??

I also pumped up one front tire with a bike pump, 10 mins later i found the valve stem wont hold air and it all came back out, oh well. I also discovered a gaping hole in the side of the rim, anyone got another one??? What should i do about the stem?? The tube and tire are fine from what i know.

One more thing, i got a torque wrench for $30 at sears today, if'n i knew thats all they cost i would have gotten one during the snapper sags over the summer, remember??? That was fun, LOL. Anyone have any pointers on how to use the thing??

I found someone who will give me a set of manuels and someone elce who will get me a carb. Thanks you two, and thanks to everyone who reads and responds to and advises the project.

Here i am with it, primed and set. This was during the steering...work this afternoon. Plywood for a seat is uncomfortable :-I

 

[Vito]

Lanse,
Remove the grease fittings and replace.Also try to scoop out any hardened grease that is in ther e with a wire or something.Crude way to do it but it has worked for me.Coming along nicely.Please don't get impatient with the engine it's kinda like child birth.Want it over with but it takes time.So my wife told me twice.
Vito

 

[old]

On that tire you talking about the stem or the core. If its the stem the tube is bad. If its the core thats a 2 bit part. Oh forgot your a kid so 2 bits mean little to you LOL. Any how if its the core you can buy a pack of them for a couple bucks or less. At least you don't have the problem I have Lanse. I have hauled in 5 tractors in the last 2 weeks and of course all of them need work so I have my hands full and then some. And yes every one of them has had the ATF treatment done to them
Hobby farm

 

[Lanse]

I dont get it...not sure i want to

How do i tell what the problem is??

 

[Lanse]

I dont really want it done, its something to do LOL

I'll try that, thanks alot Vito.

 

[edj856]

You sound like you're really making some progress. Just remember: Details take time, details make the job, and the job makes the man. Go slow and do the best you can, not only on this tractor but everything. If you rush through the project, you might be happy when you can say it's done, but a few days later you'll say "Oh, I should've done this and fixed that." Then you'll be taking it apart all over again. The faster you get the tractor done, the faster you won't have anything to do in your spare time

 

[Janicholson]

Call it the Alliance. The name allows three components: it soundz a bit like Allis It sounds a bit like Lanse and it binds you together (as you indicated you seemed to fit it. (I am an Allis Chalmers person as well as IH) I owned a 1938 WC.
The tube in your tires are just like a bike tube. If the stem is bad (the rubber sticking out of the hole) the tube is bad. If the core is bad, as Old indicates, they are cheap. Do not inflate a bad rim, Even modest 15psi pressure on a rusty rim can Kill if it explodes. ATF is also my choice on the engine. JimN

 

[edj856]

With no air in the tire it's hard to tell. When the tire's full of air, spray some soapy water on the valve stem. If it bubbles from the inside the stem, underneath of where the valve cap goes, it's the valve core. If it's from around the rubber stem, then you're tube is bad. To remove the core, you need a valve core remover. You can probably buy a pack of valve cores and a valve core remover for less than $5 at TSC, any auto store, or hardware store.

 

[Mathias NY]

Can you tell where the air is coming out of? If it is coming out of the center, you probably have a core problem. If it comes out from around the rubber part, it is the actual stem. Over time the rubber and spring inside the core will go bad. Sometimes simply tightening the the core will solve a leak.

TSC will have the valve cores, core tools, and tubes for the front tires. The cores and core tool should not cost more than a few dollars. What to do about a rim depends on where the hole is. For a front rim, you are probably best to just replace it.

For the torque wrench, follow the instructions that should have come with it. Always use it slowly and smoothly to get the most accurate reading; never use it in a jerking motion. If it is a click-style wrench, always return the setting to zero when finished, this will prevent the springs from taking a set.

There is another online company that has a good selection of new and used tractor parts. They are much better than TSC. Unfortunatly their name is not allowed on this forum. If you are interested I can sent you an email with a link to their site.

 

[Lanse]

So far i havent done much detail work, but thanks, i'll remember that!!

 

[Lanse]

Wow, once more you guys have saved me potential time, money and bodily harm. Where would i be without 'ya??? Thanks.

 

[flashback]

a hole in the rim can be fixed with fiberglass. Use the gel resin and mat. two coats of resin and sand smooth.

 

[old]

What part don't you get. The 2 bit thing or the other part. If its the 2 bit well back in the day it mint a quarter which back then was worth a lot more then today. Now its the tube thing. Tractor tires are like bike tires and they have tubes and tube go bad if left flat. $10 will buy a new tube or you can brake the tire down and maybe patch the tube. Air will always leak out of the stem hole, why?? Because its the easies place ti get out plain and simple so you still have no idea where the hole is unless you brake the tire down and look the tube over and to do that you have to air the tube up

 

[Andy Motteberg]

Call it "Alice Chalmers".

Poke a wire through grease fittings that won't take grease, there is probably dirt in there.

Andy.

 

[trucker40]

The motor is going to take a long time,but you cant rush it.Its going to take as long as it takes.Looks good with the primer what I can see.You might see if TSC or a auto parts store has grease zerks and valve cores.Change the zerks that wont take and the cores that dont hold air.Dont put any air in the tire thats got the bad rim.Those old tractors kind of were hard to steer.Look for a drain somewhere on the steering box and see if any oil comes out,might not have any oil in it.Just a thought but you might want to replace the kerosene with PB Blaster for a couple of days.If it took PB Blaster 3 days to unlock the brake levers it might unlock the moter.I dont think they had that stuff 28 years ago when I unstuck the VAC Case tractor that I did.Theres lots of different torque wrenches,and ways to use them.If its a click wrench you most likely turn the handle until a pointer points to a number stamped into the handle.It probly has a lock at the bottom of the handle you turn to release the handle so you can turn it to change the torque setting.One set of numbers is Ft Lbs or foot pounds,some other numbers are for NM or newton meters whatever they are.Most you need is Foot Pounds probly.Inch pounds maybe are on it.Watch for that as inch pounds are 1 twelth of foot pounds and if you set them in inch pounds they are gonna fall apart if it calls to set them in foot pounds.If its a beam type wrench it will have a rod with a pointer on it,then when you pull the handle it will bend a little but the pointer will point to a number thats either foot pounds or inch pounds.Foot pound torque wrenches take 1/2 inch drive or 3/8 drive sockets.Inch pound torque wrenches take usually 14 drive sockets maybe 3/8 drive.There are other kinds but those are probly what you can get at Sears.If you have the kind that the handle turns to set it,when you put it away you always set it to zero so it will be accurate when you go to use it again.Always only PULL on the handle to torque something.If you jerk on the handle it wont work right.Never put a cheater pipe on the handle of a torque wrench,it will mess it up maybe.

 

[trucker40]

Should say inch pound torque wrenches usually take 1/4 drive or 3/8 drive sockets maybe.

 

[hillbillyOH]

I hope you aren't neglecting your studies, Lanse!

At any rate, fill those cylinders with ATF and just leave them alone for a week or so. Like trucker40 said, it's going to take time so just relax and let them soak. It's not as if you don't have any number of things to work on in the meantime.

Take that rusty gas tank off and take it to the local car wash. Spray the inside out real good with the high pressure hose. Once you've washed and rinsed with water, rinse a few times with gas or WD40. That will get the worst of what's in there.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Just kiddin but those big gloves are for a big job. Your set to work now. Might have needed the next size bigger if that tractor turns in to a mighty big job.

Well, you wont get those hands dirty that way.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Dont fall behind in your school work , with your new found joy, it can be easy to do,, to want to spend every spare moment working on something exciting as this tractor you've been waiting on for some time.

But the education will take you further and last longer than this tractor project,, especially in todays world, education is the key,,,

congrats on your new project, you will get all the help you need on this site as you well know,, a little trick with the zerks,, if they dont take grease and they come out ok,,, you can heat them up with a torch while holding them with a pair of pliers, the old hard grease will melt and come out,[the zerks are out of the tractor at this time!],

just a quick tip too, on some of these stubborn bolts you are bound to come across, if they start coming out, instead of just applying more pressure,[they may snap] get it loose a 1/4 turn and then retighten,, do this as many times as it needs before it comes out easily ,, good luck with your tractor, pat

 

[Roy in georgia]

Lance, from the primer on the tire and bottom of the steering wheel you are getting a bit hurried unless you plan on replacing them but that is still primer that would have been better served on the metal parts also the kero. might be marvel mystery oil unless the seller told you it was kero. some swear by marvel but I think PB would do the job fastest as that is the kind of thing it is supposed to do. old likes ATF and it may be great for this but he is more experienced and prob. more patient than some that want to try out the engine. slow down just a bit more spend a little time rubbing on it to prep those seams on the fenders while laying on the rear tires each way to keep it under some persuasion as you work. Spending more time in the small cracks and crevasses will make the overall appearance more appealing. I used to work at a body shop and now I can't stand to see where someone just painted instead of taking a few extra min. to prep the entire job.

 

[Lanse]

Thats just a first coat, it will need another coat of primer next time it warms up. I dont see any primer on any tire, you cant even see any tire in that picture, there is none on that side, i need a rim for it. I am planning to get a few aresol cans for the orange, probabally 5-6 of them or so at TSC. I seem to have better luck with spray paint then brush paint.

 

[Lanse]

I've accually had really good luck with bolts, everything comes out the first time or it comes out after a day or 2 of liquid wrench, but i will remember that, thanks.

 

[Lanse]

yeah,yeah,yeah

 

[Lanse]

Iam going to put the ATF in this afternoon. Somebody said vinegar will dissolve rust so i think i'll have to try it.

 

[Andy Motteberg]

I'm no good with brush paint either, I painted my Farmall H with spray cans. It worked well.

 

[Lanse]

Boy, youre creative LOL . I'm gonna go try that with the zerks.

 

[Lanse]

Yeah, my snaper and wheelhorse that im trying to sell look really good, since i sprayed them. My huffy that diddnt turn out so good, that was brushed.

 

[Dick L]

A little rim repair pictures at the bottom of this album.
Here

 

[Anonymous-0]

Am I missing something here? For a first class freshening up( I wouldn't call it a restoration) shouldn't fenders and stuff be taken off before painting? Especially when a lot of the tractor has to be stripped down anyways. Another thing has me puzzled. If the engine and steering and other components might need to be taken apart, why start applying primer? If the primer gets scratched, it will have to be sanded down and prepped again or the scratch will show up in the paint. This seems like a waste of time and money. I think you might be better off working on the parts that will decide if the tractor is worth fixing up. Spending $40 or more buying good spray bombs of paint (there is a difference) and other monies on simple parts may be a waste if you find the engine is totally shot and would cost a fortune to fix. I'm not trying to discourage you. I think it's great that you're trying to fix up an old tractor but you may be going about it a little too gung ho with your limited budget. Restorations can take very experienced and wealthy people several years and thousands of dollars to finish. I'm not sure if you realized it will take a long time. Like someone else mentioned in an earlier post, it will become real discouraging at some point. Just keep focused on what you want the end result to be. Dave

 

[Roy in georgia]

ok, sorry I thought I was looking at a tire but it wasn't had a slight head ache this morning that made my eyes hurt too you will be better served if you take this opportunity to learn how to use a spray gun better coverage and more consistent color just buy some and teach yourself how there's a guy named Frank on here that gives good advise on painting FIT is his handle just hit him up I'm sure he will be glad to give you advise

 

[M Nut]

Lanse,
You have received a lot of good advice, and I would put some thought to all of it.
That said, this tractor is your project. It will be a learning experience and hopefully a lot of fun. There is no right or wrong way to go about making this old girl ready to do a little work in the fields again. Take pride in your work, but if it doesn't end up looking better than new, don't feel bad. I like my tractors to look good, but don't think for a minute that I feel bad if the paint gets a small scratch or scuff in it. I maintain, paint, and use my tractors. I am guessing you plan on doing the same. I am really enjoying watching your progress. My very first tractor was an Allis Chalmers B, and I bought it when I was about 12 years old. I really wished I had it back. I know where it is, but the owner does not want to sell it at this time. Who knows what the future holds. Good luck!