Day 4

[Lanse]

Today i tried to get the crankcase oil plug out but diddnt get anywhere. So i just sprayed more PB on it. Am i doing something wrong??
Also, i cant get the bottom part off the air cleaner??? I cant get it to move, and some liquid wrench and a few taps from a rubber mallet couldnt do it, so now i have to ask you. Any ideas??? While were at it, i cant get the fuel filter off, how does it come off of the tractor??

One more thing, the inside of the govener is coated in grease and grime, will this affect how it works??

As for the rim rot, i cant get a picture up onto YT, but i'll try again later tonight.

 

[old]

#1 as far as the oil pan drain plug just use a propane torch and heat it up real good. Heat it to the point you can here the oil boil around the plug then stop let cool for 5 minutes and try to remove.
#2 as far as the oil cup on the air cleaner remove the top rain cover and then drop in a long rod or long wood stick and then tap it lightly, be sure the ring clamp is off and all first.
#3 what fuel filter. It should have a sediment bowl and thats it so explain the filter better
Hobby farm

 

[Lanse]

sorry, it is a sediment bowl, my bad.

 

[hillbillyOH]

Why have you opened up the governor??? Your approach to this project seems a little random.

Are you sure you're turning the oil drain plug in the right direction?

 

[old]

Couple ways to do that then. Tapping on it some times works but also some times brakes the bowl. Another way is the remove the assembly and then put it in a pan of water. The put it on the stove and heat the water up slowly. Make sure the bale off off of it and a good number of times it will fall apart as the water gets to boiling. Just don't let your mom know what your doing and don't use one of her good pans or she might use it on your head LOl
Hobby farm

 

[Lanse]

Well, OK. I'll try it tomorrow. How do you remove the assembally from the tractor??

 

[Lanse]

i AM random, but how am i random on this project??no i diddnt open it up, the mag is missing, so the govener housing is sticking out, and i saw a large amount of grease caked onto everything. in there.

 

[old]

I will just screw out of the bottom of the gas tank. You do need a thin 11/16 or 3/4 inch wrench to do it but it should just come out if you have the line off of it
Hobby farm

 

[35A]

I'm glad you are not working on a John Deere with your hammer! Go slowly and look things over before attempting to disassemble. If you are in an unheated building to may be fighting ice in everything. Be gentle, the part you save might be your own!

 

[1 Dollar]

If you can't get a wrench in there, get a pair of channel locks around the cast part and unscrew it that way. May marr it a bit, but works.

P.S. You seem to be FLYING with disassembly/ paint/ whatever else. SLOW DOWN. I did my first tractor when I was 15-16 and I just turned 17 this month. That tractor was 100% mechanically functional and it still took me 364 days to "refurbish" it. I mostly disassembled it and I completely repainted it (carb rebuild, misc. gaskets). That was all I did. You will be disappointed with the end result if you rush and you may make it a more expensive project than it needs to be. One of the first things I would have done is try to get the oil drained and changed or fill with kerosene. Not primer the whole rusty tractor.

Just some advice from somebody who seems to be playing the same ballgame.

P.S.S. I just bought another tractor on Jan 12. Farmall M. It joins the JD A I referenced earlier. Took me 2 weeks just to get the loose and 100% complete engine running last night (1-26). I may be "slow" but it has worked for me.

Good Luck

 

[JoshuaGA]

Hey Lanse, glad to see you are enjoying yourself. However, jack of all trades and master of none can bite you. I sa you are on the right track doing the little stuff first, but dont mess with any major components if possible until you have an operators manual, an I&T Shop Manual, and as this is your first restoration, a how to book would be helpful. Go ahead and order those, keep soaking the motor, go ahead and take off all the sheetmetal, prep it, prime it, and put it in the corner until you are ready to paint. Dont rush this. It didn't get in that shape overnight, and it won't become a shine job overnight. If you can have a small sucess or two every day, it will help keep you motivated over this project. BTW, if you still have those cultivators, keep them, set them up this summer to plow sweet corn. I'm telling you it beats the heck out of a hoe, you won't dread it. Keep the Kubota for the tillage, buy a old Covington planter or equivlent to mount behind, and plant and plow with the B. Have fun irregardless of my advice and listen to these old timers, they've BTDT, unlike us.

JoshuaGA

 

[Lanse]

Thanks alot. Im not really hurrieng although it looks that way, i just enjoy working on it so i dont stop I found a really nice guy on here who is shipping my a operators, service, and parts manuel, should be here early in the week. You guys are great

 

[Lanse]

thanks alot, i'll try to slow it down.

 

[Lanse]

I put some PB on the air cleaner a few days ago, and picked it up by the pipe today, after letting it sit s couple days. The bowl fell straight to the floor but was undamaged. Scraped the ice out and re-mounted it back on the tractor. The air cleaner is now set!!

 

[old]

Lanse one thing I learned long ago. Is you need to have a good running machine before you worry about how it looks because looks and a buck will buy you a cup of coffe but one looking bad but running good will buy you a lot or work that pays

 

[hillbillyOH]

Is the oil line to the governor still intact?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Have you pulled the dipstick to see if there is water in the pan? Have you looked the side of the motor real close to see if it is cracked anywhere?
No sense on working on the small stuff if the motor is junk.

 

[Mike M]

I love his ambition ! And you just brought up my worst fear for him and that is having a completly repainted good looking flower planter because the engine might be junk.
I'm not too familar with those Allis models. Is there a starter or cover you can remove and get on the ring gear with a crow bar and apply some pressure to turn it ?
I have freed up several old JD tractors and it does take quite a bit of force on the fylwheel to get them moving.
I like to remove the valve cover and rocker arms and push rods so not to bend them. And this way you can work with each valve and see if they move and if not free them up if possible.

 

[Kent in NB]

Is it possible the bottom of the oil-bath was frozen on? I had that problem with my H. When it finally let go , there was ice inside. Kent in NB

 

[old]

I free up a lot of them my self. I think his has a starter and I've found a starter will put out more torque and in a way that it will not harm things then any crow bar etc ever will. Now on the old hand start JDs you have to do it other ways but thats a different story. I have a JD-D that has a jack sitting under a bar thats in the flywheel right now and it has been there for 2 or 3 weeks and it still hasn't moved. I'm thinking about turning the bar over and trying to spin it the other way soon but I have time so if it lets loose tomorrow good it its next month thats fine also
Hobby farm

 

[Mike M]

The last old Deere I freed up I had really good luck applying pressure by hooking a come-a-long to the fylwheel with a chain and then looping the cable up around and down over the fylwheel and hooked the other end to the drawbar frame and it pulled evenly and smoothly and it loosened right up. This worked out safer then the other ones I chained a bar to. I wish I'd thought of it years sooner.

 

[old]

I don't chain a bar to them. I made a flywheel wrench which fits in the holes of the flywheel. On the back side its set up to drop a bolt or pin into it so it can't pop off. Then I use a com-a-long or jack on it. But so far it hasn't worked on this D but it has also been sitting for 25 plus years locked up so it might take a year or more to free up if it ever does free up. I think theres even a picture of it in my web page
Hobby farm

 

[Mathias NY]

I believe Lanse said his is a '39 model, crank start only. So no ring gear on this one.

 

[26Red]

I would try a short "cheater bar" oil plug. Or try a heat wrench... best bet is to remove the oil pan and see what you are dealing with. If you don"t have a actelyene torch, a small torch for soldering pipes works in a pinch to get things loose.. but have the fire ext in a handy spot!

 

[old]

You know I don't remember for sure. Some how when you post as much as I do its hard to remember what I have said and even to who I said it to